seanv98

Okay guy's I need a little help. I went to my buddies yesterday to do a valve adjustment for him on a GSR motor. Long story short; He got the motor almost 4 years ago form a shop that we used to deal with, he got the motor off of one of the shops customers who needed to put his car back to factory, and the motor had like 40K on it. So my buddy did the swap, but didn't do the timing belt and such. Car has been running mint this whole time with no issues. When I brought the motor to TDC the two hash marks on the cam gears were about half a tooth off. If I lined those up, the crank pulley was past the TDC mark by 1/8" or so. My question is, is it possible the previous owner changed the timing belt and one of the cams moved? The motor also came with an adjustable FRP, would the timing marks on the cam gears not line up if the timing was adjusted? I told him to take it in and have the timing checked. Also, when I go to do his timing belt, how do I line everything up, so I know that nothing will move? Should I just mark the cam gears with a paint marker or something, or should I line the cams back up?

Part 2: His motor is burning some oil, a little more than normal, and he doesn't drive the car to hard. After the valve adjustment we started the car, and he was showing me how dirty his rear lip is from the exhaust, I told him to rev the motor while i placed my hand over the exhaust, my hand got sprayed black and was very wet. Could this be caused by worn out piston rings? All four plugs looked pretty decent, the #1 had some slight ash deposits on it, but none of them had any oil on them. I told him to get a compression test, and a leak down test. Is there anything else we should check for, or are we heading in the right direction with the comp/leak test?

Thanks guys.

Trybal

Take it to a pro...

seanv98

Anyone else?

F8i

iTrader: (10)

A Leak down test will show if your valve seals are leaking... Oil burning in a honda is sually the oil rings...

I think of a Cam gear being adjustable, and you can advance, or retard your timing, so maybe the person with the engine prior new some ****, or read some ****, and advanced the timing. Or possibly didn't lock the TDC properly, and phukked up the timing unknowingly. If the Computer tuned?

Personally, I'd setup everything at TDC. I'm not a pro... but doesn't that make sense?

Maybe read up on the engine, and what advances/retards in timing could be. Don't people normally advance Exhaust timing, which cam was different, or both?

bseries_el

Part 1 problem.

If your going to put everything back to tdc. Make sure when you're putting the timing belt back on the crank pulley line it up with the block which is engrave on your block itself. Second. Get a ruler or a bank card (anything straight and flat) This way, you can align the exhaust cam on to the head using a ruler etc... Your cam gear should have an arrow and it would say up and then on the intake camgear just line that with the exhaust cam.

If you have any problems putting it back on? give me a shout. or just pm me.

starboy869

make a few posts on a car site and now you think you can do stuff and not take it to a shop.

IMO you might want to get a book on that engine or the yr/car for that engine and read read read. Changing a timing belt is easy, but you can't figure out how to do it ...................

seanv98

I know how to change the timing belt, because I've done it before, and I have the haynes manual, I was just wondering what may have caused the cams not to line up, I'm confidant I can line everything back up to TDC, but I told him to still take it in for the oil issue. No point in changing the belt if it needs a rebuild. Thanks guys.

miketrasias

hey i have a 01 gsr with the same problem 135k.. my car goes through a dumb about of oil.. and when i hit vtec it shoots a cloud of black smoke and i have marks on my bumper 2.. from reading around people are saying either valve seals or fried pistons.. so im going to do a compression test/leak down.. but my budy told me if my rings are done i will most likely have to bore out the block which is going to hit the walet hard.. im seeing whats wrong sometime this week.. and ill let you know what happends..

seanv98

Let me know how it goes. I'm getting my buddy to take his in as well. I hope it doesn't need a re-build, but his back bumper is pretty black.

F8i

iTrader: (10)

Those tests won't show a piston ring problem. It won't break the bank to bore your engine out... Gord Bush charges 240$ for 4 cylinders(1x $60). Then your repair kit (seals and gaskets) is about $100-$200. new pistons and rods roughly $1200, $300 for the bearings. Now you're rocking a brand new engine, might raise your compression, make your car a little faster, lower compression, turbo charged options open up...

Look at it as an opertunity!

That being said... Buy my car! It needs a rebuild! lol

FPMotorsports

Heres a question :

Why dont you have your buddy take his car to "Chris_V2"? Since no one else is touching your car...maybe just maybe no one else should be touching his. LMAO

seanv98

I suggested that, but he lives in Newmarket, and he has a pretty decent mechanic that he deals with.

miketrasias

thats not alot of money? lol but no your right its worth it in the end.. if it is this problem.. im just going to do it when my car is stored for the winter