imported_italstallion

hey guys im just about to take my head off my motor and i was wondering exactly needs to come off i got the valve cover off and i know ther 10 headstuds need to come out but how do i get the timing belt off and do i need the intake manifold off as well and pictures would help greatly thanks

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

you need to take the 12mm nuts for the exhaust manifold off and the 14mm down lower on the block that secures it to the block, you do not need to remove the manifold, just pull it off the studs and out of the way. You are going to need to remove the crank pully and timing belt covers (to put the timing belt back on). You can leave the intake manifold on the head and remove the head with it still attached, but you need to remove a few coolant lines and the big bracket thats attached to the bottom of the manifold and to the back of the block. You will need to remove the wiring harness and finally the head bolts.

LEITNER

get a helms manual...it will help more thyan the board will. have fun with the head removal, its nice to see and rewarding to do.

loosen the timing belt tensioner too.

imported_italstallion

ya i bought a haynes manual...booo to that its not good at all doesnt even have torque specs on most things lol do i need to have cyl#1 to tdc as well?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

well it will be easier to set the number 1 cylinder to TDC before removal b/c then you know its good when it comes time to put the head back on. I mean, its no big deal if you don't set it to TDC before hand, b/c you can set the crank to TDC with the head on, then set the cam to TDC as well. But it saves time if you do it before taking the timing belt off.
Haynes manuals do sort of suck. They always skimp on the important details.

scott newman

You should put your engine at tdc on cyl 1 because if you end up removing the cam and you may forget exactly where it was before removal and if you go to re install the head, you may damage some valves if they are open and one piston is at the top. As far as removing all the timing belt covers and lower crank pulley, you can remove it but you dont have to. There are timing marks on the belt cover and lower crank pulley so all you have to do is release the tension(or in some cases not) and remove the t belt, just as ealsily re install it once you are installing the head. if you are just doing a head gasket, then you dont have to remove the manifolds but if you are doing anyting to the head they will have to come off, I just leave them installed with all the wiring harnesses attached and remove the head bare, it cuts the time down. hope that helps

imported_italstallion

well when i took my timing belt off i didnt put my engine at tdc for cyl #1 should i just manually turn it to that now that the heads offf?

scott newman

Ya just put it at tdc now. dont forget when you reinstall your head, to put the cam at tdc on #1 as well its pretty easy

imported_italstallion

how will i know when my cam is at tdc on clyinder one??? its not really as obvious as a piston being at the top.

cam5

yes boo to hanes ...get the other one...i forgot the name but i believe i got the manual from walmart or canadian tire.the other one has all the torque specs.heights etc...good luck with the head.i did it on my head and i had fun.

LEITNER

i said helms not hanes

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

ummm, the crank timing isn't as easy as the piston being at the top. There are two points during the cycle where the piston reaches the top. There is a mark on the crankshaft sproket (there's one on the crank pulley too) that will line up with a pointer on the oil pump/timing belt cover. The little notch in the end of the crankshaft that the woodruff key sits in should be pointing up as well.
As for the camshaft timing, there are marks on the cam gear. Some say up and all of them have dash marks that should be parallel to the head (where the valve cover sits on). This should all be explained in even the crappiest of manuals. I've got a haynes and it explains it.

scott newman

Zeeman is almost right, there are two points during the cycle where the piston hits the top, when the head is on the engine. When its off the eingine, it really doesnt matter which stroke it was on before, its the cam you have to worry about. the more i read this post, are you really sure you want to be doing this job. Not to be an *** or anything but these are questions that you shouldnt really be asking you should kinda know this if you want the job to go right. just a thought.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i wouldn't want to put the timing belt on when the #1 cylinder is TDC of the compression stroke. You will never be able to set the ignition timing, which is pretty damn important if you ask me, b/c the marks on the crank pulley will be on the opposite side of the crank pulley when the timing light illuminates it.
Sure the car will run fine, b/c like you said you COULD put the head on with the #1 cylinder at TDC of the compression stroke and as long as the cam timing is correct it will run fine. But good luck setting the ignition timing.
Don't get discouraged, these boards are here for help, when/if you need it. You will never learn anything if you don't try.

scott newman

I just whan to know why you cant set ignition timing with the #1 cyclender at top dead?? the stroke its on completly depends on the camsaft, not the crank shaft. For that reason, all fuel injected engines need a camshaft sensor to tell the car what stroke its on. I have never had a problem ever doing it that way..

LEITNER

i think somewhere i said get a manual, i wasnt joking.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

Wel, i'm an idiot and forgot that the crank rotates twice for every 1 rotation of the camshaft. Thus, it doesn't matter, just as long as the #1 cylinder is at TDC.
I was thinking that the timing marks on the crank pulley would be on the wrong side when the timing light illuminates, but it wouldn't be...my bad.