Cyliner Head Removal
#1
Cylinder Head Removal
Hey Guys,
Im sending my head away to be rebuilt before the next season.
Which means i have to remove the head.
Ive done quite abit of reasearch (And no i wont be doing it on my own)
Just wondering if theres any tips/ suggestions you could provide so i dont make any unnessicary mistakes...
Thanks
Im sending my head away to be rebuilt before the next season.
Which means i have to remove the head.
Ive done quite abit of reasearch (And no i wont be doing it on my own)
Just wondering if theres any tips/ suggestions you could provide so i dont make any unnessicary mistakes...
Thanks
#4
it's simple, just follow the procedure laid out in the Helms manual and you're good to go. FYI, the Chilton manual is nearly a direct 'compact' version of the Helms. a lotta the same diagrams and procedures.
#9
Re: Cylinder Head Removal
Originally posted by Bryce
Just wondering if theres any tips/ suggestions you could provide so i dont make any unnessicary mistakes...
Thanks
Just wondering if theres any tips/ suggestions you could provide so i dont make any unnessicary mistakes...
Thanks
#10
AAHAHAHAHAHHAHA thats the no brainer.
BTW do you stil have those injectors Andrew?
I might need to pick them up soon assuming you still have them, and illdrop of that cymbal i have kicking around too... lmk
BTW do you stil have those injectors Andrew?
I might need to pick them up soon assuming you still have them, and illdrop of that cymbal i have kicking around too... lmk
#13
Originally posted by Bryce
lol couple yers back i bought a "CRAFTSMAN" pos ratchet set from SEARS lmfao i broke half the **** in that set.
Sotrust me i know what you mean about ****ty tools haha.
lol couple yers back i bought a "CRAFTSMAN" pos ratchet set from SEARS lmfao i broke half the **** in that set.
Sotrust me i know what you mean about ****ty tools haha.
#14
Originally posted by username
New head bolts, or over-torque old ones by 5lbs (I've read).
New head bolts, or over-torque old ones by 5lbs (I've read).
NEVER NEVER NEVER DO THIS!!! dont ever say **** like this
once headbolts have been torqued they have been stretched. They shouldnt be stretched more hense the name Torque to Yield. You will be fine reusing your old headbolts , i torque them back to spec and have never had a problem
#15
Like I said, I read it in the mini-me swap (honda tech?).
Originally posted by 1sloweg
NEVER NEVER NEVER DO THIS!!! dont ever say **** like this
once headbolts have been torqued they have been stretched. They shouldnt be stretched more hense the name Torque to Yield. You will be fine reusing your old headbolts , i torque them back to spec and have never had a problem
NEVER NEVER NEVER DO THIS!!! dont ever say **** like this
once headbolts have been torqued they have been stretched. They shouldnt be stretched more hense the name Torque to Yield. You will be fine reusing your old headbolts , i torque them back to spec and have never had a problem
#16
Originally posted by bbarbulo
craftsman pro is good **** y0, I use it and I'm highly impressed with it. just last weekend I was killin tools left and right, yet the craftsman peices held up! mastercraft maximum as well, good tools for the price point.
craftsman pro is good **** y0, I use it and I'm highly impressed with it. just last weekend I was killin tools left and right, yet the craftsman peices held up! mastercraft maximum as well, good tools for the price point.
#17
Don't take off the intake manifold untill later. It's a ***** when it's in the car. Also, because of the head studs, you have to lift straight up which can be tricky otherwise if you lift on a slight angle it will jam and not want to come off.
Make sure you drain the coolant first...I made that mistake once....
Make sure you drain the coolant first...I made that mistake once....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ore0_dustin
Acura - Honda
2
15-Dec-2007 01:56 AM