imported_Nicotine

i tossed on a set of tein springs today..so far i've only sat the rear of the car down (finishing the front brakes), but the rear doesnt seem lower at all thus far????

will it sink once they settle??? i dunno...seems weird to me.

any help appreciated. (they did go on much easier, no spring compressor needed, unlike the stock springs)

thanks guys

(edit: this is for my daily driver EK)

imported_civic_66

are they tein lowering springs? i have tein lowering springs and my car is low as hell...

cibs

it will settle a bit - also wait till you have everything on before you make a judgement on how much lower it went...

how much are the springs you bought supposed to lower you?

imported_2join performance

Wait until the car is on all fours, and then release the e-brake.

ol Dusty

iTrader: (2)

they'll settle, but also did you check the ride hight beofre and after with anything more than just your eyes? also how old was the stock setup? the old stuff may have sagged abit.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

guy if the ebrake is on, the ebrake will hold the car up due to the geometry of jacking the vehicle. the vehicle doesn't go up in a straight line, it goes up in an arch, so when it comes down, and the ebrake is on, the bastard will sit up high.

imported_JDMman

^ smart man over here.... i've noticed that once or twice when i was replacing wheels on my car... id look at it and be like "what the hell"... then when i would release the ebrake it would drop down alot.... that might be the situation....

if not then you bought stock springs painted green... lol

imported_Nicotine

ah, as usual bbarb was right

sat the car down, removed the jacks, and whammo...

low, but not slammed! just how i wanted it.

now...... onto a brake question (i hope you guys read this thread still)

i did my brakes all the way around, new pads/shoes/rotors/drums

i took the cap of the mcyl during install. everything went back together really clean (actually, the passenger side rear was wrong, the slack adjuster wasnt done right at all...hence some problems, hence why i fixed it)

now, i have the car stopped by blocks...but the foot pedal seems mushy.

i put the MCYL cap back on, pumped the brake, still feels sloppy.

any suggestions? thanks again guys!

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

must flush the fluid if it's around a year or more old, then bleed bleed bleed in the following order - RR, LF, LR, RF. if you have drums in the back, manually adjust the rear shoes so at two clicks of the ebrake you feel drag on them, at 3 or 4 you shouldn't be able to turn them by hand anymore.

for those with rear disks, pull the ebrake, step on the brake, release the ebrake, and so on... keep facking around with it till they feel good (they're self adjusting).

Nicotine, the fact you took the master cyl reservoir cover off means nothing. That will not let air into the system. Just the fact you pushed the caliper pistons back into the housing will make the brakes feel sloppy at first. So even without bleeding, start the car and pump the brakes a little, this should get the pistons back out... so it should feel the same as before the brake job. However, once again, I definitely recommend bleeding the brakes and putting new fluid in, it will prolong the life of the brake seals all around and help keep the boiling point where it should be. If the above tips don't help you, then it's possible you damaged or dislodged one of the seals in the calipers when pushing the pistons back and developed a slight leak at the caliper or wheel cylinder end. if this is the case, either get a rebuild kit and replace the seals yourself, or get rebuilt calipers/wheel cylinders. The likelyhood of this having happened is very low though.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

oh yeah, but if you pushed on the brakes by accident or something while the shoes or pads were out, and the piston popped out and you just stuck it back in, that means there is air in the lines and must be bled.

also, you say the adjuster was wrong on the one side... double check that you put it all back together correctly. use a honda diagram from the Helms manual, or a Chilton manual.

imported_Nicotine

i had to bleed the fronts.

all is well

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

it's a diagonal system, just bleeding the fronts is not good enough. the left front shares the fluid (and hence air) with the right rear, and right front with left rear. that's why there is a sequence to bleeding the brakes.... I suspect if you do it correctly you will see improvement. don't be lazy, and don't leave 6 year old fluid in there.

Eurotuner00

yea u got to finish it all and put the car back on 4 tires and then ull see the difference i kow i didnt see much difference on my adjustables until all four tires where on the floor