1st Time Swap
#1
1st Time Swap
hey guys im going a swap by myself in my driveway right now removing an old d15b7 from a 92 civic sedan lx. the question was i removed the power steering pump, hoses, and belt. because i dont want power steering with the new motor. but what happens to the open plugs on the steering rack do i have to plug them so fluid doesnt come out im not sure how to explain this i dont want the steering to seize since i removed the power steering when it came with it. any ideas.
#2
Once high pressure lines are removed from the rack you will have a "barb" fitting and a threaded female fitting that are straight down from the master cylinder where the steering shaft goes into the rack. You will need to find a barb fitting that threads into the female opening.
When you have two barb fittings you will need a hose to connect them or double back into itself. (a short rubber hose that doubles back 180 degrees)
You will not be able to get a normal heater hose or fuel/air hose to do so without kinking
When that is complete the car is actually drivable but still requires some effort to turn the wheel. The next step is to "tap" into one of the lines that feeds the rack. If you look straight down from your throttle body area to the rack you will see 2 metal lines (look like brake lines) that feed the rack itself. The one in the middle of the rack that threads straight down into it is the one you need to "T" into. It is the line on the right of the rear engine mount in this picture.
The next is easy, run a hose from where you just installed your "T" into the line up to some sort of breather. The purpose of this is to allow the rack to "breath" when you are forcing the air and fluid though it.
Front wheels off of the ground turn the steering wheel back and forth. P/S fluid shoots about 3 feet in the air through the breather hole on the cap because of all the pressure. Take the line from the bottom of the Breather and run it into a drain pan and turn the wheel back and forth until it stopps blowing fluid out. At this point the steering becomes very easy and you will hear the fluid in the rack "slopping" back and forth. You will not have any fluid in the Resivour it is only used as a Breather and possible overflow.
When you have two barb fittings you will need a hose to connect them or double back into itself. (a short rubber hose that doubles back 180 degrees)
You will not be able to get a normal heater hose or fuel/air hose to do so without kinking
When that is complete the car is actually drivable but still requires some effort to turn the wheel. The next step is to "tap" into one of the lines that feeds the rack. If you look straight down from your throttle body area to the rack you will see 2 metal lines (look like brake lines) that feed the rack itself. The one in the middle of the rack that threads straight down into it is the one you need to "T" into. It is the line on the right of the rear engine mount in this picture.
The next is easy, run a hose from where you just installed your "T" into the line up to some sort of breather. The purpose of this is to allow the rack to "breath" when you are forcing the air and fluid though it.
Front wheels off of the ground turn the steering wheel back and forth. P/S fluid shoots about 3 feet in the air through the breather hole on the cap because of all the pressure. Take the line from the bottom of the Breather and run it into a drain pan and turn the wheel back and forth until it stopps blowing fluid out. At this point the steering becomes very easy and you will hear the fluid in the rack "slopping" back and forth. You will not have any fluid in the Resivour it is only used as a Breather and possible overflow.
#4
Originally posted by RDub99
the proper way would be to get a non-power steering rack
the proper way would be to get a non-power steering rack
but you will have to have bushing made to fit it properly:
http://htuner.com/topic/632/?hl=steering
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