blueEM2

I'm going to leave it here because I hate to be negative but test results have been done on Lucas and it causes oil to foam up and lose its ability to lubricate. Check Bob is the oil guy website. He actually does real time tests. The companies that rate these oils and addatives get paid to do it so you can't trust them. That stuff is garbage and I wouldn't put it anywhere near my car. Even car manufacturers recommend you stay away.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

im gonna do some research and check it out

blueEM2

As far as bogging goes have you cleaned your throttle body? It could be numerous things... but cleaning the throttle body is where you should start. Yes your injectors could be partially plugged causing bogging at lower rpms. I'd definitely start by giving the throttle body a thorough cleaning which means taking it off the car and spraying it down with TB cleaner and a toothbrush.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

when i did my tune up in december i put throttle body cleaner, i used about half a can..
and i let it sit for a bit..
maybe a bad sensor?

i even use lucas fuel injector cleaner as well in my gas tank, every other fill up

MPR

You don't need injector cleaner in every other fill-up. Once or twice a year is fine. Any more is unecessary.

In the 266k I've had my car for, the only time it ever had any cleaner go through it was when I seafoamed it over a year ago.

blueEM2

The only reason to use it every other fillup is if you know your injectors are plugged and your trying to clean the system out. If this is the case its usually too late for a product as mild as injector cleaner. You will probably have to take it for a chemical cleaning somewhere. Even that procedure can cause damage to the internals because they blow all the carbon out into the pistons which isnt necessarily good.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

k boys
so after driving the car around checking the plugs. it looks like its a weak ignition system.. i notice that it only seems to bog when the motor is cold or when the ignition system is cold.. once it starts to heat up i find the problem to go away..
so im going to get one of those Heli coils and add it in to give my system a boost

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

lol i hear so many different things regarding this product
everyone's told me different ways to use it.. so i dunno

blueEM2

How is your coolant level in the radiator and the overflow tank?

MPR

uh... a heli coil is used to re-thread damaged threads in a threaded hole...

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

LOL My bad i did not mean to say heli coil. i meant to say super coil aka an external coil...

heres the update:

i was tinkering around and i took apart the dizzy and changed the ignition coil.. i found that the rough idle was gone.. and it was not bogging as much as it used too.. now it hardly happens... ONCE in a while when i start the car i notice it will bog for a bit. then be normal then bog again...

i find that if i turn the car off, wait a sec then turn it back on.. vola no more bogging.. and everything is running fine..

im debating maybe it could be the wires/ plugs? maybe this coil / new wires and plugs well help with this issue??

anyone??

thanks in advance!

MPR

How old are the plugs? If they aren't that old, check the gap and reset if necessary (this can make a bigger difference than you may think). Also, check the resistance of the ignition wires. You'll have to google the ideal resistance. It'll be something like so many ohms per 12" length of wire. With a simple multimeter and calculator, should be easy to figure out if they are still good or not.

Let us know what you find.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

well gents ive decided its time to put this motor on a stand soon and get some work done to it( the motor may or may-not be in the car during this procedure). if you read the above posts you will notice that i had a bogging issue on my car.. the issue is still there only at low rpms.. still have no idea what it is exactly

so far i have done to the car:

full exhaust system (stock header though)
CAI
MSD Ignition System
new alternator/belt/water pump/tensioner


What i want to do to the car is;

- take the head off maybe mill it out just a little bit and replace the rings( with either stock/low/high compression rings)..
- check the pistons and rods once they are pulled out.
- upgrade to an AEM Fuel rail/ change/replace injectors
- Skunk2 intake manifold
- Hytech replica 4-2-1 header or 4-1

Now im at a point where i decide if i want to keep it NA or Boost it...
i prefer NA cause its less maintenance then boost.. but its obviously tempting lol..

( what are you thoughts on this? im open to suggestions)


is there anything else im missing guys? or anything else u think i should replace while im there?
any help would be appreciated, thx

F8i

iTrader: (10)

A compression test is very different from a leak test.

It's a Honda... your rings are warn. Use cheap oil, and fill it as often as it needs it. my Type R was almost a 1L every time I filled it with gas.

Your valves could be a problem too, but only a leak down test would show that.
A) You don't need a fuel rail, ask Zeeman. I think it's good up to 400hp
B) there's injector cleaning services $25 an injector. I got mine done at deastchwerks in the States. (Because they were DW Injectors)
C) Intake manifold? Why bother? Get a light flywheel, or yours lightened at a machine shop. For the price of an Intake vs. Flywheel, I'd get the supporting mods before the expensive intake.
D) You want a 4-2-1 Header, not a 4-1.

E) Why not replace pistons/rods, raise compression, get a tune, and get cams. Huge NA gains, and nothing gimmicky. (Repair your head first is it's leaking)

-B

MPR

^ I agree with all of that.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

First off thanks for the input guys i appreciate it.

An injector cleaning service eh?.. i guess lucas fuel injector cleaner doesnt do the same type of job ?

Does a lighter fly wheel actually make that much of a difference?

& yah i want a 4-2-1 header, i just have to decide on the brand first.

Well when i take the head off, and i take the pistons out im gonna see what type of condition they are in. If they need replacing ill change them.. if not then theres no point right?

& I understand raising compression when i replace the rings cause im already there.


my only concern is..

if i replace the pistons/ rods is it going to be expensive? i never gotten any pricing on those mods before.. and should i replace them with OEM or upgraded ones?

i do know that cams are expensive. so im gonna be dishing out at least a good $600 for those parts in total.. right?

& the head will be machined out just a little bit, nothing too crazy.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

what happened, you guys got all quiet on me all of a sudden lol

MPR

How much power do you want to make?

D.T.P

Wait wait wait...WHAT?!

Raising compression with rings? and you shouldn't reuse rings. From earlier posts you had a low cyl2 and it went up when you got some oil in it. Well its not valve seal, its your ring that is leaking. So the block should be inspected and either honed or bored depending on what machinist has to say. Since you still had fairly decent compression, it most likely needs a nice clean hone and a fresh set of rings. Just to let you know, the compression will NOT go past what stock compression is.

Compression ratio is how many times the volume of air in the cylinder bore has been compressed from BDC to TDC. So if you understand that, rings will not increase anything but set you back where you want to be.

Moreover, how are you planning on inspecting pistons? They could be dirty and covered in carbon yet they can be perfectly good, just need a good bath.

You were talking about replacing rods/pistons. Well what are your hopes of horsepower and what is your budget? If you are looking to get 130whp then rods will not be necessary nor will be the pistons.

Why not just drop in a b20 for half the price of the rebuild with a b16 transmission and trust me, you WILL be loving it. Just my 2cents really.