iTaLiAn_vIrUs

Im noticing my car starting to burn oil.. my dip stick read full a week and a half ago.. and now its at half..

i smell some oil burning when VTEC is engaged( not all the time, once in a while)..

sounds to me like its the rings that are going?


right now im using mobil1 15W-50 and the lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer to try and slow things down..

im not planning on fixing this right away.. cause i know that means and engine rebuild.

any suggestions on slowing this down?

or what are some good options??

thx boys

D.T.P

Well Mike had success with using non synthetic oil to slow down the oil burning issue in his b16. Also, 15w50 seems tad too thick.

MPR

^I switched back to full synthetic, mainly because I got tired of changing the oil every 2 months...lol.

It burned a little less oil when I ran non-synthetic, but I'd rather have better oil in my motor and have to add a liter every 3 weeks, than have to change it more often.

Kind of a trade-off. Not a whole lot you can do. If you rings and vlave seals are worn, they're gonna leak regardless.

I'm also using the lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in my wifes accord wagon with 425,000kms on it (original motor). Seems to work well.

Sundown

Leak hunting sucks, I had the same experience as MPR with the synth vs. non-synth.

Some other things you can look for.

Take a look under the car, especially at where the gearbox and engine mate. If you have oil leaking from the clutch cover, you'll need a new rear main seal. Not a huge job if you're competent enough to do a clutch on your own.

Had your valve cover off lately? I'm not sure it would equate to as much loss as you're experiencing, but if the cover came off and a good seal wasn't used with high temp silicone at the corners you may be blowing oil out of the valve cover. Vtec heads especially atomize a mess of oil and create pretty big pressure under the valve cover.

Also have a look around the oil filter, it may just be loose, or as I've seen in a few cases, the o-ring from a previous filter may have stuck to the block and the new filter's o-ring is mated to the old o-ring, not the block, this will leak like crazy.

Other than that, you just have an older Honda vtec engine.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

see but this gets me thinking..

i dont smell the oil burning through my exhaust i smell it as if its coming from under the hood.

i took the valve cover off in November, and it was spotless! and i put new high temp silicone.

could excessive oil burning be caused from a bad sensor? or dirty sensor? or a clogged pcv valve?

sorry if these are stupid questions but i wanna ask and make sure, as you can see ive never dealt with these issues before.


ALSO this is a key note..


if im in first gear, and i go at about 1500rpms and just cruise.. ONCE in a while the motor bogs a bit until i give it more gas..
or if im in second gear and im crawling and i put my foot to the floor and go full throttle the motor bogs a bit then gets moving. but like i said this happens once in a while

could all these issues correlate?

thanks boys

D.T.P

It wouldn't be a bad sensor, its either leaking or burning.

Burning could be caused by a plugged pcv system causing more blowby the rings and thus burning. Could be actual rings or valve seals.

Leaks, well that could be anywhere, as simple as oil pressure sender, front/rear main seals, oil pump etc. Many possible causes.

MPR

*warning*... geek rant below...lol

Crawling along in any gear at near idle, do you really expect a tiny displacement motor like this to instantly spring to life when you floor it? You will actually get better acceleration and torque from your engine at lower rpm's by giving it part-throttle. try it, it's physics. Higher intake air velocity at lower rpm = more torque. This is what happens at part-throttle because you are creating a venturi effect with the throttle plate. If you go wide open, the air moves more slowly and the engine produces less torque.

Try this, go in 4th or 5th (the higher the gear the more noticable this is) and cruise at 2000 or 2500rpm. Slowly start to give the engine more and more throttle. You'll notice it'll accelerate slower at full throttle input, yet it will accelerate quicker, in the lower rpm's, with part-throttle input. You can feel the threashold where torque starts to drop if you give it too much throttle in the lower rpm's. Technically, the best way to accelerate from a dig (in gear near idle) is to feed your throttle input based on rpm. By 4500rpm or so, you should be at full throttle from there on up to your peak hp rpm. What you are essentially doing is optimizing the volumetric effeciency and torque output of the engine throughout the entire rpm range.

Opening the throttle fully at low rpm's basically just makes the engine bog and makes noise.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

ahhhhhhhhhhh
welll thx you guys for the inputs! i like the detail explanations!

i get the point on the bogging.. lol but in terms of the burning oil..

is there a way to check for a plugged pcv system?

would a leakdown test provide me with the definite answers im looking for?

& i know this sounds ridiculous but where is the PCV valve located? i wanna check this option out

thx again guys!

MPR

^what engine do you have?

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

d16z6

MPR

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Pr...ther%20Chamber

#6 on the diagram.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

so i just pull this out and clean it?

do i use throttle body cleaner?

any thing specific i should do?

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

also
one thing i have noticed now

is once in a while the engine light will come on.. and if i turn the car off and let it sit for about 2 mins and start it up.. the light goes away..

once in a while it comes not.. not often

could this be caused by a bad sensor? or something mechanical?

MPR

How many km's on the motor and how has it been driven? (be honest! )

You can search on here or google the procedure for extracting the trouble codes from your ecu. Once you have them, post them up here and we'll help you figure what to do next.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

245xxx
& i dont beat it bad.. i do drive it aggressive when i need to though. but not often

i saw some DIY's on cleaning the PCV valve
ill see if these could help me out.. thxx

MPR

Yeah, it's probably a combination of worn piston rings and valve stem seals. Nothing major or unusual. Just keep an eye on your oil level and keep it topped up.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

k boys
so after reading Mikes posts.. this is what i did

i did an oil change and compression test on my motor last week.. this is what the result were.


Cylinder #1 = 200psi
Cylinder #2 = 170psi
Cylinder # 3 = 190psi
Cylinder # 4 = 190 psi

(I removed the power to my dizzy and unplugged my injectors when i did the test)

So as you can see, Cylinder # 2 is running low.. So what i did to verify this was put some automatic transmission fluid in Cylinder # 2 and put the compression tester back on an tested it. and sure enough i got a reading of like 240psi.. i put a little too much fluid i believe but none the less this has proven that the valve seals are going and its just wear and tear on the motor.


Also when i took the spark plugs out they only had a little carbon build up on them, & no oil on the spark plugs. So i would say carbon build up.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg



Now get this,

If im in first gear and i start to accelerate i notice the motor starting to bog out.. it feels like its loosing power then it will catch and run strong.. this even happens in 2nd as well.. and seems to be more frequent now.


I changed the Distributor/ spark plugs / wires / battery during my December tune up..

& when i did this compression test i replaced my alternator with a new one, and new belt..

im thinking this could be a sign of a bad injector? or some type of blockage.. has anyone experienced this ?

One thing i thought of was when i looked at the spark plugs and noticed that they had the carbon build up, and when i read up on that.. this could be a sign of a weak ignition system..

could that be a reason as to why im getting this bogging ?

Now one thing that i wanted to know was that i was told that if i unplug my injectors and get an Ohm meter and measure the resistance across the injector it can tell me if the injector is functioning properly or not. is this true? and if so
does anyone know what the readings should be ?

sorry for the essay boys
but ive been trouble shooting this so i just wanted to make sure you were just as informed as i was..

any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks!

blueEM2

Do your research on Lucas before using it... that stuff is garbage

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

i beg to differ on that one dude,
ive been using the fuel stabilizer and ive loved it! its rated one of the best around

iTaLiAn_vIrUs

sorry boys
i also forgot to mention that when i did the oil change, i checked the oil filter which is Mobil 1 for any leaks, cause i read that sometimes a Mobil 1 oil filter does not come in complete contact with the motor causing you to loose oil. That was not the case for my car. The oil filter has been switched to a K&N brand.

i did however notice that 4 10mm bolts were a bit loose on the oil pan and i tightened them up and checked the remaining bolts, they were fine.

the motor oil currently in the car is Mobil 1 15W-50 and im using about 20% Lucas Oil Stabilizer .