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B16A2 - Gas?

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Old 04-Apr-2008, 10:56 PM
  #21  
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the gas here is a 1 10 or around there. I dont think that this is the problem the air. I have skunk2 springs and blox valves with a hondata done chip on a dyno. Advenced timing. Reshaped combustion chamber. And opend up inlet and exhaust ports on the head. acl bearings and a micropolished crank. I want to do way more work but it takes time. Last time i had the compresion checked it was 11something i dont remember now. Its higher then normal. ohh and the head was shaved 35 thous or a lil bit less not to sure i did not do the work. I dont have a machine shop. So could the gas be the reason why there is a differance in the sound if it is 94 or 91? anyone know.
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Old 04-Apr-2008, 11:33 PM
  #22  
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gas will make a difference in how it runs most likely like many people have said on here. Just use 91 octane gas unless your boosting then i would also go up to 94. The sound of your valves has nothing to do with gas period.
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Old 05-Apr-2008, 04:06 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by zeeman
well, if you change the cams, you NEED to tune right away.
I'm all about the turbo's b/c i'm all about results. I spent so much money building my engine for n/a to make much less than 200whp. At 9.5psi on my b16 i made 276whp off just a street tune. The turbo kit costs less than building my engine for n/a, thats the part that really gets me.

Thanx man, it's so hard to decide what to do. I think the only thing stopping me from going the turbo route is that i tend to have a heavy foot and I would be in boost all the time, and most likely rack up the speeding tickets. haha. One more quick question if you don't mind. Are after market cam gears needed when swapping out cams. Thanx againd.
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Old 05-Apr-2008, 08:47 AM
  #24  
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i would say so, b/c you will needed to "degree" the cams after installing them.
Or if you don't degree the cams in (like most people) you'll need them to be adjusted on the dyno so you can make max power.
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Old 05-Apr-2008, 12:03 PM
  #25  
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Thanx again for all of your help. Cheers
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Old 05-Apr-2008, 09:10 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by pizdek
the gas here is a 1 10 or around there. I dont think that this is the problem the air. I have skunk2 springs and blox valves with a hondata done chip on a dyno. Advenced timing. Reshaped combustion chamber. And opend up inlet and exhaust ports on the head. acl bearings and a micropolished crank. I want to do way more work but it takes time. Last time i had the compresion checked it was 11something i dont remember now. Its higher then normal. ohh and the head was shaved 35 thous or a lil bit less not to sure i did not do the work. I dont have a machine shop. So could the gas be the reason why there is a differance in the sound if it is 94 or 91? anyone know.
Just curious why you would do all that to your engine, and not actually put anything in it that will make it go faster??...Besides having the head milled.
If your going to do all that, throw on some cams and pistons to make the most out of your engine.
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Old 05-Apr-2008, 10:55 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by SaYjAiBaO
it's all in your head. i highly doubt you notice the difference between 91 and 94 in your uber b16 VTAAKKK.
you should read a bit before you say anything. seems you like the band wagon.. why dont you try to jump on this one.

http://forum.mazda6club.com/lofivers...hp/t93242.html

most of the b16a did not come with knock sensors but the but the B's did some of them. If you have a A and have some work done to it and like live at sea level it is best to run 91 and higher.

If not then Starboy869 is right using 91 is fine.
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Old 27-Jul-2008, 05:42 PM
  #28  
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i pumped 87 in my sir for 6 years and no problem. once in a while you might hear a pinging noise but that doesn't bother me. performance wise, it doesn't run as smooth as 91 octane. now, i am getting 520km for a full tank on 87 octane and that all city driving. save the money on gas and down payment on the new si.
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