MPR

Spring rates. 12k is 12kg/mm. For every mm the spring is compressed it increases resistance by that value.

So to compress a 12k spring 2" (or roughly 50mm) it would require about 610kg of force. (12x50)

The other common spring rate unit is lbs/in. For example 500lbs/in. For every 500lbs of force, the spring will be compressed 1inch.

To convert kg/mm spring rates to lbs/in rates, multiply by 56. To convert lbs/in to kg/mm, divide by 56.

A 10k spring = roughly 560lb/in spring.

This is for linear springs. They are much better and give much more predictable performance since the rate never changes. Try to avoid progressive rate springs.


The reason I shuddered at a 12k front 8k rear setup for a FWD car, is because with my methodology of the "ideal" track setup, that would cause excessive understeer and would require the use of a small front sway bar and huge rear sway bar to compensate for those spring rates and create a more balanced/neutral handling FWD car.

You can read this if you want (grab a coffee first...lol.): http://www.torontocivics.com/f58/rac...ormula-167975/

I've setup a car with this method and have seen this setup work first hand and swear by it. It works on all cars, not just mid-rear cars. I don't believe in using any sway bars in a pure track setup. However, ride quality on the street will suffer greatly...lol.

The same formula/method works if you want to incorporate sway bars, but that requires either some guess work/trial and error or knowing the spring rate of the sway bars you want to use...

Some will argue with me on this, but a track setup integrating sway bars (which can be setup very good, don't get me wrong...), will not yield as much mechanical grip as a proper setup without sway bars. They will argue that stability due to using higher spring rates would be compromised, but dampening can compensate for that and should be able to take care of high speed stability. Our MR2 is perfectly stable at very high speeds, going straight and while cornering. I can say that coming from the drivers seat.

Peter H mentioned 14k front 10k rear, which would be a good setup with no front bar and a small rear bar, but imo would be a bit harsh for the street.

Anyways, if you're just getting into this, get something with some adjustments like 2-way adjustable dampeners. Grab a few different sized front and rear sway bars and experiment with swapping them out and experiment with adjusting the dampeners. Having a ton of adjust-ability and not knowing what they all do can be overwhelming and confusing at first. Start off with a setup that is not too stiff if you're going to be driving the car on the street. If you feel it's got a bit too much body roll, bigger sway bars are a cheap and effective way to sharpen up the handling without compromising ride quality on the street.

Robb

iTrader: (1)

I like these

KW Coilovers Variant 3
KW product range /// When it comes to sporty suspension systems for every use KW is one of the leading providers.

or

HSD Coilovers
HSD Coilovers

D.T.P

Got ebay "GodSpeed" coilovers [dont ask, was bored at work and just bought em] and tbh for ebay brand they arent too bad. Spring rate thats printed on the springs is wrong, a lot stiffer in reality, not damper adjustable, but had em for over half a year and had no problems. IMO most people dont track their cars and even if they do, they wouldnt know where or how to make things better so talking about setting a car up for track is pointless. Moreover, if you lower the car, though you lower the center of gravity but handling goes out the door....i shall not go into that, if any are curious, i shall explain but till then i dont feel like writing a paragraph that nobody is going to read.

So as I was saying, people get coilovers for adjustability in height and basically to look cool. Anything you can afford that isnt ebay sleeves will suffice. Coilovers equipped with damper adjustability should be taken into consideration, whether you wanna feel every damn bump on the street/highway or want a slightly smoother ride [by no means anything close to stock].

So get something you can afford with a decent spring rate that isnt crazy stiff meant for track only...otherwise sign up for dental plan

MPR

^He's right about ride height. I forgot to mention that. Good tip, Martin.

My civic now sits higher than stock (on purpose, not stock springs) and handles WAAAAAY better than it ever did when it was lowered...lol.

Yes lowering the center of gravity helps handling (to a certain extent), but spring rates and suspension geometry are more important and have a much more significant effect/impact on handling. So don't think slamming your car to the ground will automatically make it handle better. lol

.5man.5amazing

My friend told me bout skunk 2 coil overs spec c and spec s . What do u guys think of them r they better then buddyclubs or?

F8i

iTrader: (10)

I skimmed over the thread...
What are you using them for.

The Spec 2 Buddy Club would be stiff, and jsut about all the other ones you've suggest or been suggested.

I had Skunk2 Pro S and it felt like I was driving a bolder. Every bump went through my spine.

For the 1% of the time you'll be using the suspension for it's intended 'rally' design. It's not worth it. Though, that being said a suspension upgrade is great, just don't make it 'rally' inspired (TM lol) unless that's what it's used for.

Maybe focus on sway bars or other forms of antiroll.

2 cents.
-B

EDIT:
Found this link HERE at TCC for you:
http://www.torontocivics.com/f23/alo...ce-etc-176157/

MPR

^Mine is 'rally inspired' and rides quite smoothly. :P I can blast over a speed-bump at mach 5 and barely feel it and at the same time haul around a corner quickly on a track in complete control with very little body roll.

There's a balance between the right spring rate and sway bar combination that will yield the best balance for your intended use.

For more street driving, use softer springs and larger sway bars (on-track performance will be compromised and not optimal, street driving will be more comfortable).

For more track use, use stiffer springs and thinner or no sway bars (on track performance will be better/more optimised, street driving will be compromised and not comfortable).

But where one draws the line as "too stiff" or "too soft" is up to the individual. Just understand that if you want to setup your car for double duty (street and track), there are trade-offs and compromises for any setup.

F8i

iTrader: (10)

MPR is rally inspired

PurpleStuff

Another point for ride quality (stiff or soft) depends on what tires you have, if they're too thin, then you feel the road more. If thicker, you'll feel the road less, and so on.