Help Toe and Camber Bolts Seized!!
21-Apr-2010, 11:44 AM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Are you refering to the bolts holding the strut to the spindle? Heat with a torch (heat gun won't do anything). And don't heat the bolt itself, heat the area around the bolt so the hole expands. If you have an impact gun, they should come off without heat.
Which "tow" bolt are you referring to? There aren't any. To adjust tow you have to undo the lock nut on the tie-rod, remove the tie rod end from the spindle and turn the tie rod end to thread it in or out on the tie rod and re-tighten the lock nut (and bolt the tie rod end back on the spindle). For that, heat the lock nut and tie rod end (where it's threaded) and try not to heat the tie-rod itself...easier said then done. lol
Good luck.
Which "tow" bolt are you referring to? There aren't any. To adjust tow you have to undo the lock nut on the tie-rod, remove the tie rod end from the spindle and turn the tie rod end to thread it in or out on the tie rod and re-tighten the lock nut (and bolt the tie rod end back on the spindle). For that, heat the lock nut and tie rod end (where it's threaded) and try not to heat the tie-rod itself...easier said then done. lol
Good luck.
21-Apr-2010, 02:28 PM
#7
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Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 5,460
Those numbers are not horrible. A little rear tow in is ok. Better then tow out. You'll want the camber to be qual on both sides, of course. On a street car you'll want the camber around -0.5 to -1 degrees at the most, I'd say, to prevent accessive tire wear.
21-Apr-2010, 03:40 PM
#9
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I'm assuming you know what both tow and camber is... I'm not 100% sure, but it is possible that due to the geometry of the rear suspension that when you correct the camber, it will help correct the tow as well. I don't think the rear tow is adjustable on civics, only camber via the upper control arms (moving them in or out, using spacers behind the mounting bracket...aka a camber kit).
To get those bolts off, use a big ratchet with a pipe on the handle (or a johnson bar) or an impact gun.
22-Apr-2010, 07:47 PM
#10
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I'd explain exactly how to remove the bolt with the use of a torch (as I've become very good at this) but you have to be extremely good at using the oxy-acet. torches. It takes a skilled hand to remove the bolt without damage.
23-Apr-2010, 02:00 AM
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 5,460
Just this season alone I've encountered a dozen of these seized bolts.. this will not work (sorry MPR). But the bolts seize to the bushings, 9/10 you will need to purchase a new toe arm (I recommend an aftermarket adjustable piece) because you will ruin the bushing from torching the arm.
I'd explain exactly how to remove the bolt with the use of a torch (as I've become very good at this) but you have to be extremely good at using the oxy-acet. torches. It takes a skilled hand to remove the bolt without damage.
I'd explain exactly how to remove the bolt with the use of a torch (as I've become very good at this) but you have to be extremely good at using the oxy-acet. torches. It takes a skilled hand to remove the bolt without damage.
I dread the day I finally get to replacing all my suspension bushings...
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