Help Toe and Camber Bolts Seized!!
Any tips or tricks on how to remove these bolts when seized?
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heat up the bolts. just did my suspension heat worked like a chram.
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what heat?
heat gun? |
Are you refering to the bolts holding the strut to the spindle? Heat with a torch (heat gun won't do anything). And don't heat the bolt itself, heat the area around the bolt so the hole expands. If you have an impact gun, they should come off without heat.
Which "tow" bolt are you referring to? There aren't any. To adjust tow you have to undo the lock nut on the tie-rod, remove the tie rod end from the spindle and turn the tie rod end to thread it in or out on the tie rod and re-tighten the lock nut (and bolt the tie rod end back on the spindle). For that, heat the lock nut and tie rod end (where it's threaded) and try not to heat the tie-rod itself...easier said then done. lol Good luck. |
sorry
talking about the rear toe.. not the front |
right rear camber:-2.1
left rear camber: -1.5 right rear toe: 0.30 left rear toe: 0.30 are these numbers that bad? my car is only lowered about 1.5" |
Originally Posted by wb123
(Post 1453468)
right rear camber:-2.1
left rear camber: -1.5 right rear toe: 0.30 left rear toe: 0.30 are these numbers that bad? my car is only lowered about 1.5" Those numbers are not horrible. A little rear tow in is ok. Better then tow out. You'll want the camber to be qual on both sides, of course. On a street car you'll want the camber around -0.5 to -1 degrees at the most, I'd say, to prevent accessive tire wear. |
95 civic hatch
my car doesn't have camber kit, im assuming the only way to "tame" the camber is via the "Toe" ? |
Originally Posted by wb123
(Post 1453476)
95 civic hatch
my car doesn't have camber kit, im assuming the only way to "tame" the camber is via the "Toe" ? I'm assuming you know what both tow and camber is... I'm not 100% sure, but it is possible that due to the geometry of the rear suspension that when you correct the camber, it will help correct the tow as well. I don't think the rear tow is adjustable on civics, only camber via the upper control arms (moving them in or out, using spacers behind the mounting bracket...aka a camber kit). To get those bolts off, use a big ratchet with a pipe on the handle (or a johnson bar) or an impact gun. |
Originally Posted by MPR
(Post 1453481)
To get those bolts off, use a big ratchet with a pipe on the handle (or a johnson bar) or an impact gun.
I'd explain exactly how to remove the bolt with the use of a torch (as I've become very good at this) but you have to be extremely good at using the oxy-acet. torches. It takes a skilled hand to remove the bolt without damage. |
Originally Posted by chris_v2
(Post 1453723)
Just this season alone I've encountered a dozen of these seized bolts.. this will not work (sorry MPR). But the bolts seize to the bushings, 9/10 you will need to purchase a new toe arm (I recommend an aftermarket adjustable piece) because you will ruin the bushing from torching the arm.
I'd explain exactly how to remove the bolt with the use of a torch (as I've become very good at this) but you have to be extremely good at using the oxy-acet. torches. It takes a skilled hand to remove the bolt without damage. I dread the day I finally get to replacing all my suspension bushings...:sad: |
Sadly I have to do that type of work almost daily:P
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