speedracer

i asked a bunch of tcc members for help ,regarding the vinyling of the door pannels...most of them said that i would have to
1) take the door pannel of the car
2) seperate it , clips
3) strip the existing vinyl and styrophome.....

but when i went to ask a bunch of vinyl shops, they said
"y would u do such a thing."

so, are these vinyl shops giving me bad advice, or do i have to go and buy new fokin door pannels...............

speedracer

wut i mean is, was removing the vinyl a bad thing, that i did

imported_loudsubz

starting from scratch is a good idea. I have never done a door but putting vinyl on top of vinyl is hard, i rather start from scratch, use staples or soemthing on the back, and even some industrial strenth hot glue sticks in a glue gun if u need extra hold.

Whiplash

any of the shops my dad has used have always used the original skins as templates..
so they've always taken the original off..

these guys he's used are A1 shops, as they have to be for the cars that my dad is into..
old T-Birds and the like that go all over the US and Canada for shows/judging..
seats/door skins/dashes etc etc....

what'd these guys suggest then?? putting new stuff over the old stuff??

ummmm..did the styro come off with the vinly or did you remove it from the door panel??

i'd have to see what yer up against to see what i would do..
wish i hadda paid more attention to the threads that week too..

i can usually come up with a plan for anything..

imported_Team Rukus

HAHAHA WHOVER SAID THAT IS THE DUMBEST IDIOT IN THE WORLD.
Listen guy i have been doing for over 5 years now.
and believe me i will have to do the same thing when i get them from the customer.

First i strip the entire thing
have the vynil precut and ready wit the doam bcking then i apply it to the board.
There is no other way of going about this.
Vynil on top of vynil is a JOKE
wont stick and wont feel good.
No foam and just vynil is a joke too since the vynil will be too flat and will have no smooth curve lines and instead have sharp ending lines.

Call those shops back and ask them WHY they said that. Thats the most stupidest thing i have EVER EVER EVR heard.

imported_ryanhook

Ahem... it's VINYL not vynil or any other variation of the spelling you'd like to attempt to use. Also, the word is STYROFOAM and not styrophome.

imported_Team Rukus

ryanhook u Do know that your whoring right? we all know wat it means cuz the subject is about it.

PULOVR

Alot of door these days have smooth curves to them. So it would not be a prob to just use ......... vaneral.

imported_Team Rukus

Yah alot of doors do have curves but you do know that the "PHOME" is creating a special effect when its included inside the vinyl. Instead of it being just straight forward and it looking plain and curvy now it will add alittle beef inside it and look more curvy.

Its like french vanilla it tastes good and goes down nice but when u add a little whipped creme on it its better.

and fyi speedracer has a 4th gen which means not alot of curvez

PULOVR

Then he should sell his 4th, and buy a 5th. lol



I've seen it done both ways.......they both look good.

The only thing is, if the foom is not dune rite..ie glued proparlee, it can separat from the serfase of the dor.

I'v seeen it happin to manee timss.


hucked on fonics, werks fer mi.

speedracer

rite now, my interior is a bunch of metal, and winter is cold....y did i have to do this now.....SDG, will u please call me

PULOVR

I'm sorry to hear that you're having trouble, but, I told you to wait until summer.........didn't I?

No one ever listens to me. Oh well.....I tried.

By the way, doesn't your heat work?

imported_eric

from experience, having the foam makes it easier to work with the vinyl.
learned it the hard way when doing my roofliner.

speedracer

i c

PULOVR

But over time, the foam tends to break down/deteriate. Have you every seen cars that have done the vennnnialll work on their door? Almost every one of them start to peel/bubble away from the convex cures. (usualy near the arm rest and down near the bttom front front of the door.) When you don't prep the surfaces PROPERLY (vynle/foam/door), it will eventualy lift. The more layers you use, the more likely it will happen.

Thats why, if the door has alot of curves it it, I won't use foam.

If the door is pretty staight, then I will.


How many times have you seen a headliner in an older car that has started to sag? Foam is deteriating.

Sure the foam gives you that cushy feel, but sometimes it just adds to the proplem. Harder to work with.

Best time to do vynle work is in the summer. Easier to work with.


But what do I know?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Where oh where do I find this veenyil you guys speak of...the one with the foeam? And fer eximpla, the 6th ganuratieon Civic has ridges in the door panyls that are pretty tite to werk with, so how would I git da foam-backed veenyil in there? By the way FYI, the stock panels have the vinyl right glued onto the plastic, no foam inbetween. And YES!! foam definitely breaks down and makes the roofliner sag like a pair of 80 year old DD cups.

imported_Team Rukus

this is hwo it should look like

baredoorpanel+glue+foam+glue+vynil

the stock ones have the foam already stuck onto the vinyl that gets applied to the doorpanel not vise versa.
Foam will give up eventually but hey its either luxury or looks so you decide since you are spending alot on the interior.

imported_eric

my roofliner hasnt(i hope not) sagged yet and ive had them for like almost a yr now. its not perfect coz i settled for the results of the last attemp.