imported_Thrill_House

Uh ohh, I think its time to call up my 2 buddies with there "slow" D series EF sedans and get them to come to Cayuga as well.

sohcnotec

There is a 24hr weigh scale at Dixie/401
It's used for big rig trailers and such, but it'll do the job I suppose.
The guy there did my 96 Civic Si and my buddy's MX-6 for free (just got lucky, I guess)

BTW my Civic weighed 2650lbs, if I remember right.

Should cost <$10 per car

Younes Si

what i did is just go to the land fill and when you enter you have to weigh your car and if you come out weighing the same you don't pay = free.....try it

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

Do you even know who you are talking to? If you have ever spoke to 8.5K you wouldn't dare make a remark like that.

He's one of the more knowledgable people on here. He's been in the honda scene since before i had pubes....lol
Tell your d-series EF buddy's to come along too. With enough money you can make any crappy engine fast...especially with boost or if you gut the car, especially EF's.
D-series' are obsolete ever since the B-series, now B-series are coming obsolete with the K-series. One day the price of a K-series will drop.
Ask 8.5K if when people first started swapping b-series into their cars if it was as cheap as it is now.
Your going to need some boost before that LS makes 200whp, or a nicely worked vtec head and some high compression.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

Now thats thinking.....there's a dump kinda close to my house too....but not too close....lol

mdt920

Well lets get back to the original thread.

Car: 1989 Civic DX

stock for stock................ b16 vs dohc zc

Same driver.

I have to give it to the b16.

I think even with bolt ons the b16 should win.

Now for cost: ZC (dirt cheap)
Ease of install: ZC (no mounts, re-wiring, etc. Straight bolt in)
Aftermarket support: B16
Longevity of motor: Tie -- depends on condition, rebuild, etc.
Availability: B16

To the original owner research and decide what your goal is.
I did my research set my goal/budget and chose a ZC FOR MY NEEDS.

ZC link--- www.thezcr.com

Happy swapping!

imported_Thrill_House

Thats what im saying is that the K series is the new B series so prices though high now should fall pretty fast. And I actually dont really need 200hp for my car im just saying I would be happy with that much but any more is just to much for me and the car. I was originally gonna boost the LS but I think now I will just do an LS/VTEC with a couple bolt ons etc, it should move decently and also be reliable and pass e-test easily. I dont ever really plan to compete in drags or auto-x with my car, its just to much wear and tear, I compete in audio SQ comps so I mainly need a car that is reliable decent to drive as I will be travelling long distances to some shows.

Dr.K

ZC's and D's are generally slow. Cheap yes, But initially slow.
Thrillhouse is right, 200hp for a Daily driver is a little much. For FWD anyway's.
And bring these Fast D's on. Im game. I'll keep my car on the road for another month.

red90dx

either way MR Zeeman, you will be smoked, if my ZC does FAIL to your B!G BaD b16, ill roll the crx out, b20z ys1 lsd tranny


in no way did I mean to start a gangwar, i just stated just because I went with the ZC doesnt mean it sucks or I cannot make power with it.

everyone swaps the b16. I like to be different.


If Steve could make it out, im positive you would get it handed to you also!

red90dx

90 CIVIC DX

- 90 dohc zc engine
- 4-2-1 header
- eagle rods
- JE pistons
- exospeed cams
- tokico 5 ways on skunk2 coils
- integra rear disc's
- earls stainless lines
- DA front knuckles
- DA front & rear s/w bars
- 2 1/4" catback w/generic stlye can
- carsound cat
- running turboedit's custom tune, for NA application
- B&M fuel pressure regulator
- custom CAI
- MSD ignition setup

DONT TELL ME MY ZC IS BY ANYMEANS SLOW

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

sounds like a pretty decent setup, especially in a DX hatch, prolly handles pretty nice too.
Just out of curiosity what's the CR of your engine and what stage cam did you choose? Good choice of engine management i must say.
I'm not interested in racing steve, i just wanna see him again, and maybe thank him for doing great work....haha yeah right....great work....i kill myself.
Anywho, have you ever been to the track? I have never been before, i mean i've been to the track just never ran my car, so i think that will be one up on your side.
I think what you meant to say was, when my b16 smokes your ZC you will try again with your b20z CRX.
I think i need to go to the track to get some practice.
I don't know why you started beef with me, and you know what i am talking about....hint....banned camp....but i will love to shut you up on the track.

8.5K

LOLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL. o.k., i'll give yout this. K is the future. but, is it in your future, or, is it your most vivid wet dream? listen man, i'm so far from a newb, that i've even come to the realization that H does not care about us. that's why we grasp at this ****. K is once again sticking to the old Honda formula, SICK MONEY for all motor power. i'm not even going to turn this into an argument. i'll just educate you real quick

very clean, base model EF chassis-$800CAD
very clean, base model EG chassis-$1200CAD
stolen complete k20a Type S swap-$3500CAD
legit complete k20a Type S swap$5000CAD
(complete being, motor, tranny, axles, harness, linkages etc)
Hondata K Pro-$1000US
dc sports header-$500US (its ****)
a real header, DTR's K header-$1000US
customization and labour-????????????????
custom axles-$600CAD
new exhaust-$500CAD (if you don't know why, then give up now)
cai-$275
down time-???????????????
total cost, legit, roughly-$10,400
end result-200whp, 6speed tranny, and an ******* the size of a modified 700whp Supra TT down pipe. and if you really want to make good power you'll need a 2.4L tsx block. and even then, you can only spin in to 7400rpm. is it all worth it people? you're lucky i'm late for work or i would teach this class a bit longer.

8.5K

99% of races a determined by driving skill. and, 97% of the population can't race. therefore, 98% of races are meaning less. in the end, its alll determined by the driver. and, your 40whp more then that ZC is the knockout punch.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

See 8.5K knows....he knows b/c he helped me build my setup, hell he's sold me more parts than anyone else on this board. I don't care if i have to go out to the borough to get these parts b/c its worth it just to be able to pick his brain.

czeto

Does the b16 head have a smaller quench area=higher compression??

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

the gsr does, b16 and itr are the same thing just the itr has factory porting, dual valve springs on the intake and exhaust and better cams.
Actually the best stock head/block lsvtec would be with the gsr head since it would yeild a higher CR and has a good intake manifold. But the whole thing with lsvtec is that you can/should use other stock b-series pistons (pr3, p30, p72, p72, pct) to achieve your desired compression ratio. A good budget lsvtec would be a b18a bottom end with p30 (or ctr if you are ballsy) with an stock ITR head, intake manifold, throttle body and exhaust manifold.

czeto

So I would be taking a step backwards in putting a b18c head on a b16? I'd be better off swapping the cams, springs/valves, intake man. into a b16 head and upgrading the ecu?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

the GSR intake manifold won't fit the b16/itr head, it has a different bolt pattern. I don' t know how much of a gain gsr cams would be and i am pretty sure the valve springs are the same, dual on the intake, single on the exhaust.
But a gsr head would yeild a few more tenths of a point in compression, not worth the trouble if you ask me.

czeto

10-4. Thanks for the input.