Swaped B16 In Ef bogs out when given gas
#1
Swaped B16 In Ef bogs out when given gas
It's a 1989 honda civic si i swaped in a b16 car would start but have a hard time doing so when i give it gas it would just bog out and stall then have trouble starting again i am getting a code 7 that is tps i have replaced that and still the same problem help please
#2
$10 says you didn't calibrate the TPS and that is giving you your problem.
But usually it doesn't cause it to stall, but it might. YOu might have the firing order wrong, wrong ecu, etc. BUT first thing is first, calibrate the TPS. I believe I've explained it on here before, do a quick search on TPS it'll show up
But usually it doesn't cause it to stall, but it might. YOu might have the firing order wrong, wrong ecu, etc. BUT first thing is first, calibrate the TPS. I believe I've explained it on here before, do a quick search on TPS it'll show up
#3
how to calibrate your tps:
1. unplug the connector going to the tps.
2. loosen off the screws mounting it to the tb.
3. take a multimeter and read the voltage when touching the two pins in the tps that give the output reading.
4. twist the tb plate fully open and completely closed. it should be at .5 and around 4.5v at opposed throttle positions... twist the tps a bit and adjust it until you get these readings.
5. tighten down the mounting screws.
6. plug the harness back into it.
have you also installed the proper map sensor for the engine you swapped in?
1. unplug the connector going to the tps.
2. loosen off the screws mounting it to the tb.
3. take a multimeter and read the voltage when touching the two pins in the tps that give the output reading.
4. twist the tb plate fully open and completely closed. it should be at .5 and around 4.5v at opposed throttle positions... twist the tps a bit and adjust it until you get these readings.
5. tighten down the mounting screws.
6. plug the harness back into it.
have you also installed the proper map sensor for the engine you swapped in?
#4
Originally posted by weiRtech
how to calibrate your tps:
1. unplug the connector going to the tps.
2. loosen off the screws mounting it to the tb.
3. take a multimeter and read the voltage when touching the two pins in the tps that give the output reading.
4. twist the tb plate fully open and completely closed. it should be at .5 and around 4.5v at opposed throttle positions... twist the tps a bit and adjust it until you get these readings.
5. tighten down the mounting screws.
6. plug the harness back into it.
have you also installed the proper map sensor for the engine you swapped in?
how to calibrate your tps:
1. unplug the connector going to the tps.
2. loosen off the screws mounting it to the tb.
3. take a multimeter and read the voltage when touching the two pins in the tps that give the output reading.
4. twist the tb plate fully open and completely closed. it should be at .5 and around 4.5v at opposed throttle positions... twist the tps a bit and adjust it until you get these readings.
5. tighten down the mounting screws.
6. plug the harness back into it.
have you also installed the proper map sensor for the engine you swapped in?
Havent tried calibrate the tps yet and im going to try tommorow
#6
Originally posted by weiRtech
how to calibrate your tps:
1. unplug the connector going to the tps.
2. loosen off the screws mounting it to the tb.
3. take a multimeter and read the voltage when touching the two pins in the tps that give the output reading.
4. twist the tb plate fully open and completely closed. it should be at .5 and around 4.5v at opposed throttle positions... twist the tps a bit and adjust it until you get these readings.
5. tighten down the mounting screws.
6. plug the harness back into it.
how to calibrate your tps:
1. unplug the connector going to the tps.
2. loosen off the screws mounting it to the tb.
3. take a multimeter and read the voltage when touching the two pins in the tps that give the output reading.
4. twist the tb plate fully open and completely closed. it should be at .5 and around 4.5v at opposed throttle positions... twist the tps a bit and adjust it until you get these readings.
5. tighten down the mounting screws.
6. plug the harness back into it.
You have to probe the TPS with the plug connected, it can be tricky if you don't wanna just shove the probe of your voltmeter into the weather protector around the wires on the plug.
If you don't wanna do that, get a little peice of a paper clip and stick it into the back of the plug (its smaller than the probe of the voltmeter), do this for each wire and just put the probe of the voltmeter onto the peice of the paper clip sticking out.
#7
Originally posted by zeeman
The only problem with this is that if you disconnect the electrical connector on the TPS it won't be getting power.
You have to probe the TPS with the plug connected, it can be tricky if you don't wanna just shove the probe of your voltmeter into the weather protector around the wires on the plug.
If you don't wanna do that, get a little peice of a paper clip and stick it into the back of the plug (its smaller than the probe of the voltmeter), do this for each wire and just put the probe of the voltmeter onto the peice of the paper clip sticking out.
The only problem with this is that if you disconnect the electrical connector on the TPS it won't be getting power.
You have to probe the TPS with the plug connected, it can be tricky if you don't wanna just shove the probe of your voltmeter into the weather protector around the wires on the plug.
If you don't wanna do that, get a little peice of a paper clip and stick it into the back of the plug (its smaller than the probe of the voltmeter), do this for each wire and just put the probe of the voltmeter onto the peice of the paper clip sticking out.
Ok Tps works now car starts runs great now temperature problem doesn't seem to get really hot always just above the cold line and when i drive it drops whats up with that?
And thanks guys for the support!!!
#10
Originally posted by zeeman
The only problem with this is that if you disconnect the electrical connector on the TPS it won't be getting power.
You have to probe the TPS with the plug connected, it can be tricky if you don't wanna just shove the probe of your voltmeter into the weather protector around the wires on the plug.
If you don't wanna do that, get a little peice of a paper clip and stick it into the back of the plug (its smaller than the probe of the voltmeter), do this for each wire and just put the probe of the voltmeter onto the peice of the paper clip sticking out.
The only problem with this is that if you disconnect the electrical connector on the TPS it won't be getting power.
You have to probe the TPS with the plug connected, it can be tricky if you don't wanna just shove the probe of your voltmeter into the weather protector around the wires on the plug.
If you don't wanna do that, get a little peice of a paper clip and stick it into the back of the plug (its smaller than the probe of the voltmeter), do this for each wire and just put the probe of the voltmeter onto the peice of the paper clip sticking out.
#11
i just double checked my manual, and you're definately looking for signal voltage. Its 0.5V at closed and 4.5V at WOT.
If you wanna check for a break in the signal wire to the ecu, then you'd look for resistance between the TPS plug and at the ecu....no?
I distinctly remember when i had a vafc, it would give a voltage reading for the TPS.
If you wanna check for a break in the signal wire to the ecu, then you'd look for resistance between the TPS plug and at the ecu....no?
I distinctly remember when i had a vafc, it would give a voltage reading for the TPS.
#12
Originally posted by zeeman
i just double checked my manual, and you're definately looking for signal voltage. Its 0.5V at closed and 4.5V at WOT.
If you wanna check for a break in the signal wire to the ecu, then you'd look for resistance between the TPS plug and at the ecu....no?
I distinctly remember when i had a vafc, it would give a voltage reading for the TPS.
i just double checked my manual, and you're definately looking for signal voltage. Its 0.5V at closed and 4.5V at WOT.
If you wanna check for a break in the signal wire to the ecu, then you'd look for resistance between the TPS plug and at the ecu....no?
I distinctly remember when i had a vafc, it would give a voltage reading for the TPS.
#13
hmm....didn't know that....good stuff.
the paper clip thing sucks ***, i've only tried it once. When i had a vafc, i would plug the TPS i was calibrating into my harness and just watch the vafc TPS voltage readout, now i'll just plug my tuning ecu into it and watch the reading in crome....probing with a multimeter sucks IMO....but not everyone has a vafc or tunes with crome.
What i don't get, is why honda rivets some TPS sensors to the throttle body? Why not just use the torx bit screws like on the JDM engines.
the paper clip thing sucks ***, i've only tried it once. When i had a vafc, i would plug the TPS i was calibrating into my harness and just watch the vafc TPS voltage readout, now i'll just plug my tuning ecu into it and watch the reading in crome....probing with a multimeter sucks IMO....but not everyone has a vafc or tunes with crome.
What i don't get, is why honda rivets some TPS sensors to the throttle body? Why not just use the torx bit screws like on the JDM engines.
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