imported_Slvr-Bullet

Ok, seems like my car is getting worse with the starting and idle problem, so I think I'm going to look at things one at a time.

1. Check PCV valve
2. Check IAC valve/screen
3. Check for any vac leaks
4. Clean TB
5. Flush/refill coolant system


Can someone tell me where the PCV valve is on a M/T D16Y7 and how hard/easy it is to replace?

Cap and rotor, spark plugs, fuel filter have been replaced about 2.5 months ago.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Replace the PCV, then use a vacuum gauge and read the vacuum on your manifold. This will most likely tell you what's wrong... how the vacuum needle behaves indicates possible problems. It's easy... as far as I remember, it's on that 90 degree elbow that goes from the head to the manifold... I'm not sure how the pencil sharpener changes the location of this setup

imported_Slvr-Bullet

Where do I hook the gauge up to and is it expensive to buy?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

$17 walmart - it'll do the job. I have one, I can bring it to the WIS meet tonight if I don't forget.

Hook it up to any vacuum line coming out of the manifold.

imported_Slvr-Bullet

Damn, won't be able to go to the WIS. Bah $17 is nothing. I'll probably go grab one

Actually, does a boost/vac gauge serve as the same purpose? If so, it reads around 18-20 at idle which is correct right? Doesn't surge or bounce around.

Does this look like it (PCV)?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

If the needle on your boost/vac gauge is steady, then there is no problem with vacuum leaks. You don't need the $17 gauge, when you have a permanent fixture in your car

Yes, that appears to be the PCV valve, but what I usually do if I don't know where something is (well I always kinda know where it HAS to be), then I buy the part, and I look in the area until I see something that looks like it LOL If you wanna test it, shake it and it should give you a nice healthy rattle... like click click click. It's just a ball that moves around. If no click, then it's messed up.