Honda Civic Performance - JDM Discussion Engine tech, forced induction, springs, shocks, brakes, tires, etc.

lower ball joint removal

Old 04-Sep-2003, 06:15 PM
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Angry lower ball joint removal

I need to take out my axles but I'm having a b!tch of a time with the lower ball joints.

I did find this thread........
http://www.torontocivics.com/tccforu...t=axle+removal

AND I have the PDF honda manual

BUT -- I still can't my ***** to seperate..


It's a 97 civic
- I'm using a "fork type" splitter with a 5lb hammer and it won't budge.

There's gotta be a 'trick" to get ball joints apart. unfortulately I'm in my garage - so I don't have alot of clearance to ge a good wack


Hopefully one of you has experience with this...

Thanks
Lofty
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Old 04-Sep-2003, 06:28 PM
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I used to have a heck of a time with ball joints until a bought a ball joint seperator from the UAP (united auto parts), it cost me $80 but now i can pop ball joints in no time flat!
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Old 04-Sep-2003, 08:31 PM
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well if you get stuck on the ball joint, If i remember correctly you can undo the bolts that hold the upper controll arm to the frame which will allow the whole hub and rotor to swing away from the axle...Take a look, im not sure if im confusing it with my buddys intergra???
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Old 04-Sep-2003, 08:32 PM
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maybe Canadian tire rents a ball joint seaperator??...they are a blessing
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Old 04-Sep-2003, 08:34 PM
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Originally posted by BoOsTZeX
well if you get stuck on the ball joint, If i remember correctly you can undo the bolts that hold the upper controll arm to the frame which will allow the whole hub and rotor to swing away from the axle...Take a look, im not sure if im confusing it with my buddys intergra???
no that sounds right but the shock goes through the upper a arm not allowing much movement ...

undoing the bolt for the lower control arm to the shock tower will allow for more movement in the lower control arm and using the ball joint separator after that should be easier
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Old 05-Sep-2003, 12:14 AM
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Originally posted by gatherer


no that sounds right but the shock goes through the upper a arm not allowing much movement ...

undoing the bolt for the lower control arm to the shock tower will allow for more movement in the lower control arm and using the ball joint separator after that should be easier

yep thats the proper way of doing it I was just thinking of another way of removing the axle without pulling the ball joint, cuz it sounds like his is stuck real good... Ive removed an axle befoe without pulling the ball joint, just cant remember if it was the integra or the civic...but they are probably the exact same anyway...
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Old 05-Sep-2003, 08:28 AM
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DO NOT USE A FORK TYPE SEPARATOR!!!!

USE A PULLER OR A BALL JOINT TOOL

To remove the axle w/o separating the ball joint (and this will **** your alignment big time!!!) you can remove the lower control arm from the mounting points towards the middle of the car... one bolt in front, three in the back of it... and the whole thing will swing. I've done it before this way as well...
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Old 05-Sep-2003, 01:22 PM
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hmmm...what if im gonna replace both front upper arms? can i just beat the **** out of them? Im gonna ask ct if they lend balljoint tools.
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Old 05-Sep-2003, 11:35 PM
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You're in luck, I JUST finished doing the same thing on my 97 sol.

I took the cotter pin out of the ball joint, take the castle nut off,

and then bang the crap out of the lower control arm by the side of the ball joint and the two "pop" apart.

If you need to replace the ball joint, that's a bitch... but if you're taking it apart to get to the drive shaft, you voila!

Then you take the fork off (the for that connects from the bottom of the strut and the lower control arm, slide that out.

Next (for the left side) go to where the drive shaft meets the bearing support and intermediate shaft. There should be a gap between the intermediate shaft and the drive shaft, jam a jack stand inbetween the bearing support and the drive shaft and beat the hell out of the jack stand. The "pop" out comes that side of the drive shaft.

Then place the inside end (the end you just took off) and place it on the jack stand for suport.

Go back to the other end stuck in the hub, place the ball joint back into the lower control arm hole for support.

Take off the Spindle nut (you'll need a 32MM socket) impact wrench would help too.

Once the spindle nut is off you start banging away at the drive shaft end.

Careful not to go too crazy, you can mushroom the end of the drive shaft.

Hope this helps.

BTW can I get a copy of your PDF Helm??? I've been looking for that. You know where I can get one for a 97 sol?
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Old 08-Sep-2003, 01:04 PM
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UPDATE - got everything apart, new engine in - and of course more problems with ball joints.

The damn things won't go back together -- I haven't had much time to work on it - I still have to clean up the threads for the castle nuts to go back on (yep - I frigged up the threads - oops).

Now - what's the trick to get the lower ball joints back on (axles still on)- none of the shop manuals explain how to do this??
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Old 08-Sep-2003, 01:34 PM
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insert tab A into slot A... What part of this is causing problems??
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Old 08-Sep-2003, 01:54 PM
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LMAO -

When I try to tighten the castle nut the ball joint the joint just spins - - I'm gonna P/U a tap/die set when my wife comes home. I figure that's the problem.
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Old 08-Sep-2003, 02:01 PM
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Ya, chase the threads, and that should do you. you should be able to get it in by hand most of the way, then as you tighten it the taper should grip the LBJ and stop it from spinning. this should be torqued to about 40 lb-ft with most pleasant results...
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Old 08-Sep-2003, 10:09 PM
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Originally posted by Lofty


Now - what's the trick to get the lower ball joints back on (axles still on)- none of the shop manuals explain how to do this??

Back on what the hub? The shop manual says use a press but everyone just hammers it back in.

I used a 1/4" socket extention so I could hammer from the top and aim where I was hitting the top of the ball joint.

Be carful, you don't want to break through the top of the ball joint.
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