Heating problem.. im thinking new rad is needed. ??!?
#21
So far you've replaced both the rad and the thermostat and I'm assuming flushed and filled the system with a new 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. Also, unless the waterpump is leaking there is no use in changing it as it should still operate efficiently.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned checking the relief pressure of the rad cap. Test the rad cap to see if it holds the specfied pressure. (for your car I believe it is 1.1bar or approx 16lbs)
If you have the proper tools, pressure test the cooling system to check for any leaks, whether they are external or internal. For piece of mind you could also do a compression test on the engine to verify that the head gasket is still in good shape.
Hope this helps.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned checking the relief pressure of the rad cap. Test the rad cap to see if it holds the specfied pressure. (for your car I believe it is 1.1bar or approx 16lbs)
If you have the proper tools, pressure test the cooling system to check for any leaks, whether they are external or internal. For piece of mind you could also do a compression test on the engine to verify that the head gasket is still in good shape.
Hope this helps.
#23
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So i just drove about 20 mins of hwy driving, the temp was perfect right below half.. then i arrived at work - i let it idle for a bit to see if fan would come on, and it didnt even though the temp got higher and higher.. it was about 3/4 the way up and still didnt come on.
Now the funny thing is yesturday when i installed the rad and thermostat the fan worked. The fan is activated by a heat activated switch correct? Is that the small bax that bolts up to the rad on the top left corner? Im going to test this fan tonight..
Im hoping thats the problem.. The fan is there to cool the engine when airflow is not present correct?
Thanks
Now the funny thing is yesturday when i installed the rad and thermostat the fan worked. The fan is activated by a heat activated switch correct? Is that the small bax that bolts up to the rad on the top left corner? Im going to test this fan tonight..
Im hoping thats the problem.. The fan is there to cool the engine when airflow is not present correct?
Thanks
#24
dont run a 50 to 50 mixture-
run more water so it will cool easier when passing through the rad
also add this fluid called water something- I forget what it is called - jrp has it on their shelf - you can run on water alone if you add that fluid its a small pink bottle.
run more water so it will cool easier when passing through the rad
also add this fluid called water something- I forget what it is called - jrp has it on their shelf - you can run on water alone if you add that fluid its a small pink bottle.
#25
water wetter?
The fan is activated by the thermoswitch (fan switch) which is located in the thermostat housing. Try jumping it with a small peice of wire to see if it works, insert the wire into the two prongs on the plug and then start the car, the fan should come on right away.
The fan is activated by the thermoswitch (fan switch) which is located in the thermostat housing. Try jumping it with a small peice of wire to see if it works, insert the wire into the two prongs on the plug and then start the car, the fan should come on right away.
#28
yeah, thats what i am saying....unplug the thermoswitch in the thermostat housing (while the car is off) and jump it. If the fan comes on when you start the car then its working, but if not then it probably needs to be replaced. I had the same problem not too long ago with my b16 and it only cost like $50 from honda and took about 5 minutes to install.
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