Feeler gauges (valve adj kits) and Timing belt Tools
#1
Feeler gauges (valve adj kits) and Timing belt Tools
ok well I got THREE D series civics all in need of timing belts and valve adjustments... So Its time for me to make an investment in some more money saveing tools woohoo
Ive read that Snapon has a neat little honda valve kit, with the right gauges and the proper sized wrench and a little screwdriver... Or should I just go to CT and by a cheap set of feeler gauges, and find the right wrench....
What do you guys use? the locknuts look pretty small, which I might not have with my standard wrench set.
- Also I dont have access to air tools here in mtl, do you think my electric impact wrench (it claims 240ftlbs) will knock off that crank bolt? or should I rig up a braker bar...
- Last tool question, do I really need that crank holding tool to stop the engine from rotating? Or can I just have somone hold the brakes while I loosen it, and torque it
And im gonna have to buy a 200ftlb torque wrench, my snapon only goes to 100lbs
Total cost of tools shouldnt exceed 200$ for a total saveings of over 500$ plus i own the tools after
DIY
Ive read that Snapon has a neat little honda valve kit, with the right gauges and the proper sized wrench and a little screwdriver... Or should I just go to CT and by a cheap set of feeler gauges, and find the right wrench....
What do you guys use? the locknuts look pretty small, which I might not have with my standard wrench set.
- Also I dont have access to air tools here in mtl, do you think my electric impact wrench (it claims 240ftlbs) will knock off that crank bolt? or should I rig up a braker bar...
- Last tool question, do I really need that crank holding tool to stop the engine from rotating? Or can I just have somone hold the brakes while I loosen it, and torque it
And im gonna have to buy a 200ftlb torque wrench, my snapon only goes to 100lbs
Total cost of tools shouldnt exceed 200$ for a total saveings of over 500$ plus i own the tools after
DIY
#4
as for the loosening ... you could do it the brake way .. but I'd recommend gettingt eh specil tool that sits inside the crank pulleys and still allows access to the nut ... it holds the crank in place while you break the nut of
#5
Originally posted by j9chan
Poor guy here got no answer... Free bump for you brother!
Poor guy here got no answer... Free bump for you brother!
:cry:
I guess not many people do their own belts and valve adjustments...
Off to canadian tire i guess
#6
Feeler gauges are pretty important, I'd get a decent set from a REAL store... not the CT ones
Yeah, definitely invest in that crank holding tool... though I suppose the other way should work just fine as well. I don't see why not. Use a breaker bar IMO for that job.
Yeah, definitely invest in that crank holding tool... though I suppose the other way should work just fine as well. I don't see why not. Use a breaker bar IMO for that job.
#8
cool, that was my personal thoughts... it is a precision insturment... Maybe ill just make the plung and go snapon, or bluepont... I got all those hookups through the Hangar at work.
thanks for the input... Its worth the money for good tools considering all the money im saveing by doing my whole civic fleet.
mmmm toools
thanks for the input... Its worth the money for good tools considering all the money im saveing by doing my whole civic fleet.
mmmm toools
#9
I jus took it to a shop and they zapped the crank bolt off and then put it back on loose enough for me to get off with a breaker bar. As far as the feeler guage, i got a lisle set from princess auto and its worked fine for me. Since you have a D series you dont need the fancy tool.
And cablerat...the crank holding tool is basically a nut that fits snug into the crank with a bar welded to it. Wedge that into the ground and the crank doesnt budge one bit
And cablerat...the crank holding tool is basically a nut that fits snug into the crank with a bar welded to it. Wedge that into the ground and the crank doesnt budge one bit
#11
I have done hundreds of t belts and valve adj. You need the crank holding tool, well worth the 100$ from honda. I use air tools that have the power to take the lower crank pulley off but still sometimes on some v6 models, I still use the tool. Snap on sells the valve adj tool that is so handy everyone should get one. It turns the job into a 10 min job. As for the feeler guages, a thickness guage is a thickness guage, no matter where you buy it. I woulnt go out and buy a snap on torque wrench though, its very hard to get a wrench in there with the holding tool and as soon as you go and put an extension on it, the readings are off, use your electric impact and you will be fine for sure, it wont come off. And for the valve adj, they arent lock nuts, that would be refering to some kind of nylon or steel locking device in the nut, they are called jam nuts and the size you need if you get it from snap on is 10mm the acuras use the 12mm
#12
Originally posted by scott newman
I have done hundreds of t belts and valve adj. You need the crank holding tool, well worth the 100$ from honda. I use air tools that have the power to take the lower crank pulley off but still sometimes on some v6 models, I still use the tool. Snap on sells the valve adj tool that is so handy everyone should get one. It turns the job into a 10 min job. As for the feeler guages, a thickness guage is a thickness guage, no matter where you buy it. I woulnt go out and buy a snap on torque wrench though, its very hard to get a wrench in there with the holding tool and as soon as you go and put an extension on it, the readings are off, use your electric impact and you will be fine for sure, it wont come off. And for the valve adj, they arent lock nuts, that would be refering to some kind of nylon or steel locking device in the nut, they are called jam nuts and the size you need if you get it from snap on is 10mm the acuras use the 12mm
I have done hundreds of t belts and valve adj. You need the crank holding tool, well worth the 100$ from honda. I use air tools that have the power to take the lower crank pulley off but still sometimes on some v6 models, I still use the tool. Snap on sells the valve adj tool that is so handy everyone should get one. It turns the job into a 10 min job. As for the feeler guages, a thickness guage is a thickness guage, no matter where you buy it. I woulnt go out and buy a snap on torque wrench though, its very hard to get a wrench in there with the holding tool and as soon as you go and put an extension on it, the readings are off, use your electric impact and you will be fine for sure, it wont come off. And for the valve adj, they arent lock nuts, that would be refering to some kind of nylon or steel locking device in the nut, they are called jam nuts and the size you need if you get it from snap on is 10mm the acuras use the 12mm
Awsome, thanks for the info.. very helpful, that honda valve kit is not to expensive, i think ill grab it.
#13
There are other methods for the DIYer to get the job done without spending money on specialty tools that you're only going to use every 100 000km.
Here's a tried and true method for getting the crank pulley bolt off:
CRANK PULLEY BOLT NB scroll down a little to see the method.
I've used this method without a hitch. Having a high-quality breaker bar helps as you will probably have to slide a length of steel pipe over the bar to apply more torque to the bolt if it's giving you grief.
As for adjsting valves.... I've adjusted valves on several Honda engines (VTEC and non-VTEC) and have never required any specialized sets of adjustment tools.
My current method is using a 10mm, 1/2" drive, deep socket with a pin-punch that fits through the hole in the socket where the ball of the ratchet would engage into. I slip a narrow slotted screwdriver down the socket and adjust the valve while holding the nut steady with my rigged up tool.
I use the feeler gauges that I probably purchased from CT over 10 years ago. I use the "go" "no-go" method and it never fails. Have a look at the packaging of the feeler gauges to determine if they fall into the metric clearances that you require.
Here's a tried and true method for getting the crank pulley bolt off:
CRANK PULLEY BOLT NB scroll down a little to see the method.
I've used this method without a hitch. Having a high-quality breaker bar helps as you will probably have to slide a length of steel pipe over the bar to apply more torque to the bolt if it's giving you grief.
As for adjsting valves.... I've adjusted valves on several Honda engines (VTEC and non-VTEC) and have never required any specialized sets of adjustment tools.
My current method is using a 10mm, 1/2" drive, deep socket with a pin-punch that fits through the hole in the socket where the ball of the ratchet would engage into. I slip a narrow slotted screwdriver down the socket and adjust the valve while holding the nut steady with my rigged up tool.
I use the feeler gauges that I probably purchased from CT over 10 years ago. I use the "go" "no-go" method and it never fails. Have a look at the packaging of the feeler gauges to determine if they fall into the metric clearances that you require.
#15
i found the answer for the crank holding tool just thought id add it to this thread incase anyone searches here for the info
http://www.torontocivics.com/tccforums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95689
http://www.torontocivics.com/tccforums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95689
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