Clutch/Tranny/Drive Problem
#1
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Clutch/Tranny/Drive Problem
ok i replaced my clutch last year the tranny is fairly new.
My problem?
when i drive pretty much in any gear and go past 3000rpm my needle shoots up to 7 and im not going anywhere. it happens more when moving faster. if im parked and go from 1st then second i can drive ok but past 3000 and just moves the rpm's but i dont go anywhere.
i thought it was my clutch slipping and i also checked my tranny fluid and i am full .
Any ideas, is it the clutch?
Thanks
My problem?
when i drive pretty much in any gear and go past 3000rpm my needle shoots up to 7 and im not going anywhere. it happens more when moving faster. if im parked and go from 1st then second i can drive ok but past 3000 and just moves the rpm's but i dont go anywhere.
i thought it was my clutch slipping and i also checked my tranny fluid and i am full .
Any ideas, is it the clutch?
Thanks
#4
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definatly the engine is reving up and yea ive done the 40km trick....pretty much does it in any gear.
so im pondering on an oem i know everyone will say get an oem but i had just used the centraforce performance one...i was thinking on maybe an exedy stage 1 maybe 2....i do plan on making more power on my d series so shud i maybe just go ahead with a better performing clutch or stick with oem.
Thanks
Tyson
so im pondering on an oem i know everyone will say get an oem but i had just used the centraforce performance one...i was thinking on maybe an exedy stage 1 maybe 2....i do plan on making more power on my d series so shud i maybe just go ahead with a better performing clutch or stick with oem.
Thanks
Tyson
#6
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well i am planning on boosting when i get the money...which cud be this summer (crossing fingers).
just picking up an oem clutch kit for $481 plus tax is ok if i wasn't goin to do anything but i can pick up the ACT performance clutch kit ( HC5-XT00) for less
even if i dont boost this year, most likely next year so a performance one will be used sometime, my argument is mainly paying more for stock then a performance one.i dont want a racing clutch but like those so called street race disc ones (NOT FOR STREET RACING IM NOT INTO THAT)
any agreements?/disagreements?
just picking up an oem clutch kit for $481 plus tax is ok if i wasn't goin to do anything but i can pick up the ACT performance clutch kit ( HC5-XT00) for less
even if i dont boost this year, most likely next year so a performance one will be used sometime, my argument is mainly paying more for stock then a performance one.i dont want a racing clutch but like those so called street race disc ones (NOT FOR STREET RACING IM NOT INTO THAT)
any agreements?/disagreements?
#7
i picked up a competition cliutch stage 2 clutch and lightened flywheel while i was there and can't see why i would agree with putting a stock clutch in there unless you drive like your retired.
look for one with not such a heavy pressure plate and it wont be so bad and a lot more driveable, the one i have is similar in engage qualities to a type-r and its pretty soft, but grabs damn hard...
anyway, for the money, you can get a stage 1 or 2 for the same price. clutch kits for stage 2s are like 400-500 from most of the affiliates and other shops which i dare not mention... lol.
or, ebay, i think the guys name is gripforce or something on there and the exedy clutch kits are dirt cheap and if you don't mind waiting... half the price of anywhere else.
look for one with not such a heavy pressure plate and it wont be so bad and a lot more driveable, the one i have is similar in engage qualities to a type-r and its pretty soft, but grabs damn hard...
anyway, for the money, you can get a stage 1 or 2 for the same price. clutch kits for stage 2s are like 400-500 from most of the affiliates and other shops which i dare not mention... lol.
or, ebay, i think the guys name is gripforce or something on there and the exedy clutch kits are dirt cheap and if you don't mind waiting... half the price of anywhere else.
#9
it depends on your driving and if you are planning on boosting a lightened flywheel might be a little too much.
its nice and responsive, but takes away from overall drivability in terms of smoothness because there is very little weight to keep it spinning. you would find that as your shifting from say 2nd to 3rd and by the time you are done your actions of shifting and let the clutch out, you may be able to do it perfectly without even slipping it or anything, but say with a ligtened flywheel if you let the clutch out right away the same way, its almost as if you lose momentum. not sure how to explain it, but its just by observation of driving my own.
its nice and responsive, but takes away from overall drivability in terms of smoothness because there is very little weight to keep it spinning. you would find that as your shifting from say 2nd to 3rd and by the time you are done your actions of shifting and let the clutch out, you may be able to do it perfectly without even slipping it or anything, but say with a ligtened flywheel if you let the clutch out right away the same way, its almost as if you lose momentum. not sure how to explain it, but its just by observation of driving my own.
#12
well, i mean from a store... for a good clutch kit (clutch, pressure plate, pilot/release bearing)... some places 300+ for like ACT or competition clutch... depends on how resourceful you are really.
#14
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yup...now i did do that c7 cruise and pulled an all nighter to fix my car for that cruise so i was tired at the end and i found myself burning the clutch but not enough to allow me to slip this fast this fast
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