drunkn_tyger

sup peeps,

ok, before i begin... i have searched and read thru the archives of tcc in this forum, and i still have unanswered questions to ask.

here's my situation:

engine: b18c5
harness: 98 si (obd2) w conv. harness (obd2-obd1)
ecu: p28 or p06? chipped (from n1taboo)
chassis: ek (97 hatch)

i got the swap in after many days and nights due to some unexpected interferences...
i got the car to start, and the problem starts from here...

1. im getting a CEL (code 6) - i think this is ECT (water temp sensor) --> how do i fix this?

2. the car "chokes" / "boggs" each gear when i rev it to 2500+
i have no power, and it almost seems like the car was gonna stall within those revs.

-so i checked the fuel pressure, and it read 80+psi (according to the b&m fp guage my friend had)

-im using a b&m fpr, and even when i lowered the adjustment, it still stayed the same reading: in fact, i swapped my oem fpr, and it still stayed at 80+psi. (what psi should it be anyway?)

- i know this is super rich, and this may be the main reason why my car is running like $hit with no power. but how am i supposed to be sure? is there a method to check or adjust (lower) the fuel pressure without purchasing a different fpr? could it be my stock fuel pump? filter? please help.... this is my daily, and it's been outa commission for a while now,,,

thanks in advance!

drunkn_tyger

anybody here?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

holy crap your fuel pressure is DOUBLE what it should be.

check that the fuel return line has no kinks or restrictions in it. this is what I'd do.... hook up the gauge to where it's supposed to go (on the fuel filter) then disconnect the return line at the end of the fuel rail and have it drain into a bucket (if it splashes all over the engine, it could start a fire since the alternator is in the area).

if it still reads 80 psi with the fuel return line disconnected, then replace the fuel pressure regulator with a known good one, if it still reads that high, replace possibly the fuel rail.

this should fix most of your problems other than the ECT code. the ECT code you'll have to troubleshoot separately.

drunkn_tyger

hmm, ok i'll give that a shot

thanks... i'll let you know by tonite to see what happens, gonna go work on it now

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

about the ECT sensor....does your rad fan work? After idling for 10 minutes or so does your rad fan turn on? (leave the hood closed b/c i've done this before with it open and it wouldn't turn on, then 2 minutes after closing the hood it came on)
If not, try jumping the thermoswitch (fan switch) located in the thermostat housing (jump it like you jump your ecu to get the codes), make sure the car is off, unplug the thermoswitch, jump it, turn the car on and the fan should turn on right away.

drunkn_tyger

ok... an update:

i bought a new fuel filter... changed it, and still pressure is same
i checked all lines and its not bent or kinked...

zeeman: yea fan turns on ... i cant get rid of the code

help

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

it turns on by itself or when you jump it?
Also have you tried resetting the ecu? Pull the ecu fuse in the underhood fuse box for a few minutes and see if it goes away.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

I tried but you won't listen. read my post again and do as I say damnit

Younes Si

haha, i love you

drunkn_tyger

bbarbulo:
sorry dude, i tried what you suggested, but still didnt work.
i tried it with both my oem fpr, and the b&m .
-fuel rail is stock... i checked to see if they were all firing, and they were.
-i think it may be the fuel pump.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

i run a 255 lph high flow pump, and I still use a stock rail and fuel pressure regulator. highly unlikely it's the pump but it is possible. i guess next step would be to try another pump then.

so you've removed the return line altogether and pressure was still 80 psi?