imported_BlitzSix

Hi..

If I start my car and drive it right away when it hasn't been driven for like 12 hours, it will run fine for the first couple mins then it will run HORRIBLE. Basically the car is shaking the whole time, ****ed up idle and I feel like its ABOUT to stall when i'm at a light (but it hasn't yet), when I accelerate it's 10x slower than usual and its like shaking and not going steadily at all, it's all rough, etc.

Then when it warms up, it runs perfect. No matter what, if I turn it on/off, it still runs perfect. If I realive it for 4 hours, and it's "cold" again, it still runs good. It only runs bad after sitting for a long long time.

Any idea what the problem is ?

Thanks.

PS I usually idle my car for 5 mins before driving, and it only runs really bad when its beteween being totally cold and being normal temp, so I usually get in and it runs bad for a while...

Bryce

DO you warm your car up before you drive it to 6k? lol?

imported_Cablerat

When you start your car cold, does the car hold the idle steady? And at what rpm does it sit while idling COLD?

imported_BlitzSix

Bryce, this is my beater, I never shift above like 2k lol.

Cablerat, when I JUST turn it on, like when it's very cold, it idles perfectly, but like I mentioned before when it gets to that point where it's between being COLD and between being normal, the idle sucks, I can feel it going up and down, and the car shakes, and the exhaust makes a really slight popping noise (barely noticable unless u really listen), etc

I have no idea what it idles at because this POS doesn't have a tach (honestly what kind of car manufacturer is too cheap to put a ****ing tach in, on a manual!). I'm in the process of installing an aftermarket one though so hopefully I'll be able to tell you wihin a couple days. It seems fine though, like 500 rpm above normal I would estimate?

imported_Nanase

any engine code? CEL on? check pending code if possible

imported_sky0901

happend to my car too, when it's morning start up

up go 1.5k rpm down to 800rpm then back up to 1.5k rpm until it drop down to normal

maybe i need a tune-up

imported_BlitzSix

CEL isn't on (no lights are on), it COULD still be throwing a code even without a light though right? I don't have a way of checking it .


This is gonna make me sound like an idiot, but it may help the problem so I will post it up. The first time it ever happened was maybe a month ago. What happened was, I topped my car up with oil (it burns oil so I always top it up and check often so it doesnt run on low oil..), then went away for 7 days. Then I got back, and had to pick up a buddy, so I get in, drive, and this is when it ran like this for the first time...I had no idea why, I was gonna stop but his house was 2 mins away, so I get to his house, and turn off the car, he comes out, I turn it back on, it won't turn on. Oil light is on. Oil is low. I put in oil, it starts, works perfectly. Except from then on I have this problem when it's cold . The only reason I didn't check the oil before driving is because I topped it up before I left so I don't see how it could burn oil when I"m not driving...

Any idea what couldve ****ed up ?

Thanks.

imported_Nanase

yes, what year is car car?

So you are saying that the car runs very bad (like misfiring) when it is cold and after few mins, it smooths it out. But only happens when the car been sitting for at least 12 hours, correct?

imported_Cablerat

You need to clean and/or replace your FITV.

imported_Cablerat

You need to test your FITV (Fast Idle Throttle Valve) and your IACV (Electronic Idle Air Control Valve).

The FITV adjusts your idle by allowing more air into the engine depending on coolant temperature. When you car levels to normal, the FITV valve closes completely... When it's cold and your car is revving at like 1,500 rpm, that's cuz your FITV valve is openned up all the way.

I want you to actually disconnect these items while the car is running. Once you remove the item causing the problem, your idle will drop down but stay steady.

It may not be either of them, but that's the best place to start. Get a Haynes or Chilton manual and read up on these 2.

imported_BlitzSix

^^^Thanks, I'm guessing I have to remove them in the window where the car is running poorly?


It's a 93. And yeah, and a bit longer than a few mins... maybe 10-15, until its relaly nice and warm..

1sykcoupe

my car ran like crap until it warmed up and it was a vaccum problem.

imported_Cablerat

Yep.. Test the IACV first, it's easier to access. It's located right behind the intake manifold and has 1 electrical plug and I think 1 or 2 intake hoses. You can try just unplugging it to disable the sensor, but then your engine light will come on and the car will go into limp mode. You want the car to think everything nis running properly and pull off the IACV.

imported_sky0901

where's the FITV?

cuz i know nothing about engine parts

can you post a pic

thanks alot

imported_Cablerat

Sorry I don't have a pic.. Maybe someone else here does..

Get a Haynes manual for the 92-95 Civic, it's good to become familiar with your car and troubleshoot problems yourself... Big money saver forsure.

imported_BlitzSix

Hey guys.

Please note that I appreciate the help however I had been very busy with school and have not had a chance to try the solutions posted here. I will during the break, which is soon.

One thing I want to add... if I put in extra oil.... say a half litre over maximum, then the car runs MUCH better. If there is a lot of oil in it sometimes it even runs perfectly when cold. As it burns off the oil it starts to run ****tier when cold, but for short periods of time. Then once it's at "maximum" on the dipstick it basically runs like complete *** while it's cold until it warms up. Note that it always runs like a dream when cold.

Does this fact change the solution at all or do you guys still think it's the same thing ?

imported_ellickk

maybe someone ****ed with ur car while u were gone?? how do u leave come back and ur oil drop just like that...maybe u have a leak and that leak is causing unsteady vaccum in ur engine thats causing the rough idle...just a suggestion

imported_doggy69247

my car was doing that then boom all gone new engin and what do u know the problem went away


i did have a new problem with the new motor it would idel like *** so i removed the AIC and cleanid it all up stil the same i got a new 1 and same problem so its something else then i got a throttle body crank senswor problem so i changed that and stil had the problem so i sprayed brake cleaner all round the hoses and then finaly on the block were the intake gascet is and the engin reved different so that told me that the break cleaner got inside the motor AKA gasket was ****ed time 4 a new 1



but simple fix 4 now get some of that metal tape that u use 4 the dukts in your house and cover up the AIC hole in the throttle body and now it runs fine it just dosent like starting wen its freezin cold