Nova_Dust

Has anyone used Isky valvetrains before?

Here is their Race spec valvetrain for B series non VTEC

70lb @ 1.400" (seat pressure)
204lb @ 0.95" (open)
0.710" coil bind

Crower's own spec is 62/160 I believe. Isky's Street setup is 54/160 so to me, Crower's own springs are more or less for Street purposes. Since I am using 405, I thought Isky's spring rate looks very good.

Any thoughts?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

ISKY is a giant in the domestic V8 world. i haven't a clue about their foreign offerings, but I would love to see someone (ie. you) being different and trying it out.

imported_SilverSleeper

Go for Isky stuff. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Nova_Dust

Based on their domestic line of product, and NASCAR racing and whatnot, they are big for sure.

I have sent them an E-mail regarding pricing and whatnot.

LEITNER

use the springs crower recomends charles...be safe...just my oppinion...broken springs, cam lobe wear and popped valves are just plain bad dont you think?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

i forgot you already had the crower cams... I was thinking full isky goodies in the head.

yeah, matched sets from one manufacturer FTW

Nova_Dust

Ok, I will do that. Good thing I haven't paid haha.

Thanks

Nova_Dust

Question on adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Right now, I am using ITR fuel pump. With this build (and RC370), is an adjustable FPR needed or dyno tuning will take care of it? I don't have any aftermarket piggyback ECU, need the tuner to tune it and burn me a chip.

Thanks

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

tuning will take care of it, you don't need an fpr.

Nova_Dust

Thanks Bruno, money saved right there. I guess there is no need for a gauge as well.

Thoughts on a Hondata intake gasket and the like? Cheap "upgrade"?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

the hondata or fakedata (as i like to call them) intake manifold gaskets are definately worth the money, i use them on all of my builds.
I'd still recommend getting a fuel pressure guage, so when your dyno tuning you can see if the fuel pressure drops in the higher RPMs indicating that your fuel pump can't keep up and a bigger one is needed. But if the fuel pressure stays steady across the rpm range your pump is sufficient.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

no, check the fuel once, and thats it. i have a fuel press gauge mounted to the filter, it was only like $20 and it's a really easy place to start diagnosing the three basics (air fuel spark)... but it's not 100% necessary.

there is some basic physics behind the hondata intake gasket... they first started using them on old hot rods as carburator spacers to stop heat soak in the fuel, but really... it also increases plenum volume and in your case it would lengthen the runners while insulating the intake manifold. I think for the price, it's worthwhile.... just to maximize everything you're doing.

as for gauges, the only ones I truly think you need are EGT, oil press, oil temp, water temp. you don't need blingin defi gauges... greddy is really nice with the gauges, it's what I use... but autometer will also work just fine. my oil press gauge is an autometer hidden out of sight (center console in the armrest) so I can check it when I want to, but it's not an eye sore.

Nova_Dust

Thanks for the advices on the intake gasket and the FP gauge.

I don't think I will have money for the other gauges this year. Still haven't got a solid quote on the build cost (labour and machine work) so have to conserve the funds, getting only what it necessary.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

word word... always stick to your budget!! spend only what you must.

Nova_Dust

I will buy these two things, then OEM water pump, timing belt and head gasket, and Crower valvetrain, then that's it for parts I believe.

Nova_Dust

I am about to purchase some OEM stuff. Is there an advantage in using VTEC water pump + matching timing belt over a non-VTEC one? I know the teeth is 22 vs. 19 so at high revolution, more teeth would decrease the odds of forming air pockets at high revs from frothing the coolant?

If the cams can make power to 8000, I guess VTEC setup? So 99-00 SiR would do right?

imported_bananax

if you have hot cams already, why would vtec benifit your top end :P the only thing it would really benifit is your mid and lower range, giving you a hotter profile at the top range of rpm.

but I don't understand why you wouldn't go with a vtec setup :P the rough idle I used to have in my gtz with w41 cams in a quad 4 motor :P basically your 4cyl will sound like those big *** motors in muscle cars at idle, lump lump lump lump (due to the hot cams)

Nova_Dust

I don't know, I have always liked to do my own thing, like the stupid ghetto wing adjuster; ghetto zip-tied radiator; this and that...

The easiest answer would be "I want to be different". But I guess the real one would be "I am just plain stupid".

Or the other way around...

Anyway, few more parts to buy and that's about it.