B series nonVTEC build
#21
Thanks for the heads up guys. I don't think I will tackle assembly myself, too expensive to play with at this point. I will spend the money to get a quality work.
For valves, I guess if there is no aftermarket 33mm nonVTEC intake valves available (and assuming VTEC and nonVTEC can't be interchanged) then I will just work on whatever came with the head. If they can be interchanged, I can use ITR valves for factory performance. If the builder suggests to go with oversize valves, then we will see how that goes.
For valves, I guess if there is no aftermarket 33mm nonVTEC intake valves available (and assuming VTEC and nonVTEC can't be interchanged) then I will just work on whatever came with the head. If they can be interchanged, I can use ITR valves for factory performance. If the builder suggests to go with oversize valves, then we will see how that goes.
#22
charles i think your build will be sweet, dont let people scare you with the rough idle crap either...you will not have a problem. i think alot of b20/vtec guys will be suprised by the power you will make...go gettem!!!
#23
Thanks Steve, the blessing along with some of the other wise men (Bruno, Andrew, Chris, Peter... etc) really keep me going with this project.
Chris, I will most likely pick up a P8R head from another guy.
The next part on the shopping list would be the dual springs and retainers. I figure to shop from the top to the bottom. That way I don't forget things or skip a part.
Chris, I will most likely pick up a P8R head from another guy.
The next part on the shopping list would be the dual springs and retainers. I figure to shop from the top to the bottom. That way I don't forget things or skip a part.
#24
Called up CCH and their price is quite competitive as well. I guess it could be a toss up between GBP or CCH, until I find a 3rd party.
So far, for P&P + valve job, long block assembly, overbore and tuning, 2000 dollars seems like the norm. Parts wise, I believe I can get everything I need within 1500.
So far, for P&P + valve job, long block assembly, overbore and tuning, 2000 dollars seems like the norm. Parts wise, I believe I can get everything I need within 1500.
#25
i can't wait to see you finish this project! jschuing or however u spell his name made 180whp with his p8r head and 404s. he made 165whp with just 404s on a stock p75 head and stock bottom end though. he only gained about 15whp with a built motor so that was kind of a bummer. i hope you make 190+ with those cams. you should be making even more with the 405 cams. i wonder how streetable that thing will be though. i'd imagine the idle to be a lopey as **** but that sounds nice. the domestic guys at lights will be wondering what the hell you run under the hood. non vtecs have potential man. there's a b20 nonvtec crx on ht running low 12s i believe? either way a 13 second nonvtec gets :thumbsup: from me. i'd love to start a project like this.
#27
Just won an auction for an used RC 370, based on the injector calculation, 370 is enough for 200+ hp, so it should be decent. Dual valve springs and retainer I am just gonna buy new, no point in saving money for these crucial items. I might go with Brian Crower's product.
Question, can you bore stock LS throttle body to 65mm? So it would be 68mm taper down to 65mm right? If it can be done (with the new throttle flange) for less than 100, then I will just go that route.
Question, can you bore stock LS throttle body to 65mm? So it would be 68mm taper down to 65mm right? If it can be done (with the new throttle flange) for less than 100, then I will just go that route.
#29
Thanks Chris. I just want to push the evenlop and if I can live with hard engine mounts on the road for almost 2 years, then this build might just work out.
I still have a tight budget to work with (3500 max), so have to shop smart and get the most out of my dollars.
I still have a tight budget to work with (3500 max), so have to shop smart and get the most out of my dollars.
#33
really? you spent that much already? i think im going to do a similar build as yours but with the 404s. i wonder if you'll have problems passing etest with those cams. is your 3500 budget including a new motor or are you rebuilding your old one?
b20 with p75 or p8r head
blox type r IM
crower or brian crower cams with valvetrain
injectors
header
type r 84mm rs machine pistons
type r tb
that's all i can think of for the motor from the top of my head. where are you buying your cams? some guy on H-T is having a gb on brian crower cams but i don't know how much. he's located in scarb i think.
b20 with p75 or p8r head
blox type r IM
crower or brian crower cams with valvetrain
injectors
header
type r 84mm rs machine pistons
type r tb
that's all i can think of for the motor from the top of my head. where are you buying your cams? some guy on H-T is having a gb on brian crower cams but i don't know how much. he's located in scarb i think.
#34
btw what do you think will be more reliable? b20vtec or b20nonvtec both revving to 8g? im guessing the b20vtec would have a vtec oil pump to pump more oil through the block so would that be better?
#35
all 98+ b-series oil pumps are the same, so vtec/non-vtec doesn't matter, same ish
ARP rod bolts and balance the rotating assembly and you'll be golden....hell lots of people don't do either of those and are fine at 8k.
ARP rod bolts and balance the rotating assembly and you'll be golden....hell lots of people don't do either of those and are fine at 8k.
#36
Originally posted by SaYjAiBaO
btw what do you think will be more reliable? b20vtec or b20nonvtec both revving to 8g? im guessing the b20vtec would have a vtec oil pump to pump more oil through the block so would that be better?
btw what do you think will be more reliable? b20vtec or b20nonvtec both revving to 8g? im guessing the b20vtec would have a vtec oil pump to pump more oil through the block so would that be better?
#37
Originally posted by zeeman
all 98+ b-series oil pumps are the same, so vtec/non-vtec doesn't matter, same ish
ARP rod bolts and balance the rotating assembly and you'll be golden....hell lots of people don't do either of those and are fine at 8k.
all 98+ b-series oil pumps are the same, so vtec/non-vtec doesn't matter, same ish
ARP rod bolts and balance the rotating assembly and you'll be golden....hell lots of people don't do either of those and are fine at 8k.
is it 98+ andrew? I thought it was 96 (obd2)?
edit: **** you're right. I owe you a blazing...
naaaaaaaat
#38
My motor is 98 spec, so hopefully it has the right pump.
I am also going to change head gasket, water pump and timing belt at the same time, that will increase the cost a little.
Kevin, I am building my current motor but with a P8R head, so the P75 head can either be sold for dirt cheap, or keep for parts.
As for your list:
blox type r IM (yes)
crower or brian crower cams with valvetrain (yes)
injectors (RC 370 used)
header (already have)
type r 84mm rs machine pistons (84.5mm, new)
type r tb (RS 68mm)
Cams I paid for cheap (new), and I got the RC 370cc for about 175 CDN shipped from States. Blox is paid for as well and that's 200 CDN shipped. Piston is hard to find used, so I gave in and paid for new, same goes for ACL bearings.
As for valve springs and retainer, again, even if I find cheap, the Ti retainers, due to wear, I believe is better to buy new. Then I might as well buy the whole set new. They ain't cheap (about 380CDN) so no choice there.
As for TB, I couldn't resist on the 68mm RS Machines TB, it was 250USD shipped and that's where I could have saved money (or even bought the POWER TB for nearly half the price) but I couldn't say no to it. It has my name written all over it.
So parts alone, I am looking at 2500 or a little over. I am at close to 2G and I still need to buy ARP head stud, valvetrains, OEM WP+TB, gasket.
Optional items are FPR and a Hondata intake gasket.
So that basically leaves me with 1000 dollar for labour, which I think could be done if I just do boring+honing, and overhaul. There is no way I can squeeze in P&P in there. Then there is tuning, and that's potentially another 500 dollars on the dyno.
I need to sell some excessive parts to come up with the money.
Oh, and I need new tires, too.
2007 sounds like a fun year to look forward to... :P
I am also going to change head gasket, water pump and timing belt at the same time, that will increase the cost a little.
Kevin, I am building my current motor but with a P8R head, so the P75 head can either be sold for dirt cheap, or keep for parts.
As for your list:
blox type r IM (yes)
crower or brian crower cams with valvetrain (yes)
injectors (RC 370 used)
header (already have)
type r 84mm rs machine pistons (84.5mm, new)
type r tb (RS 68mm)
Cams I paid for cheap (new), and I got the RC 370cc for about 175 CDN shipped from States. Blox is paid for as well and that's 200 CDN shipped. Piston is hard to find used, so I gave in and paid for new, same goes for ACL bearings.
As for valve springs and retainer, again, even if I find cheap, the Ti retainers, due to wear, I believe is better to buy new. Then I might as well buy the whole set new. They ain't cheap (about 380CDN) so no choice there.
As for TB, I couldn't resist on the 68mm RS Machines TB, it was 250USD shipped and that's where I could have saved money (or even bought the POWER TB for nearly half the price) but I couldn't say no to it. It has my name written all over it.
So parts alone, I am looking at 2500 or a little over. I am at close to 2G and I still need to buy ARP head stud, valvetrains, OEM WP+TB, gasket.
Optional items are FPR and a Hondata intake gasket.
So that basically leaves me with 1000 dollar for labour, which I think could be done if I just do boring+honing, and overhaul. There is no way I can squeeze in P&P in there. Then there is tuning, and that's potentially another 500 dollars on the dyno.
I need to sell some excessive parts to come up with the money.
Oh, and I need new tires, too.
2007 sounds like a fun year to look forward to... :P
#39
I think a lotta people who haven't done builds don't quite understand how quickly the parts add up $$$.
Congrats on your build charles, just keep at it and take lotsa pics of all your blingin parts cuz once they're in the engine you can't eye-fack them anymore.
Congrats on your build charles, just keep at it and take lotsa pics of all your blingin parts cuz once they're in the engine you can't eye-fack them anymore.