Man if your car was fine before hand.....and your saying your buddy did'nt use a timing gun after replacing the timing belt......I'll bet your timing is way off.
A tiny dent in your oil pan is not going to screw your whole engine over and start throwing you codes??

 

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yea i think ur right cuzz i called him back to meet him tomorrow to figure it out (my mechanic) and he said he didnt realize i told him my buddy did the timing belt so he said the timing might be off so we'll check everything tomrrow ill keep yall updated ahaha

 

Just chill for a sec bud....and no im not one of those idiots who just "throws" parts at a car. Dont talk **** when you dont know me. I was just trying to help. The only reason i said it could...key word being could....be the solenoid valve is because i thought everything else was working fine. But apparantly you dont have the proper oil pressure. Maybe if you learn how to drive a lowered car properly you wouldnt have a dented oil pan...and in turn your vtec would still be working.
Then again thats just me.

 

yea thanks for comming out

and for the record i never called u an idiot

 

lol this is **** talk?

 

Hey man,

Ok I need to provide a bit more clarity around limp mode. Yes your CEL light can be on and you're not in LIMP mode.. It actually depends on the code.. In limp mode the honda OBD1 ecu will limit rpm to 3500 and only use the TPS and TDC sensors to operate the car. That too, by the backup processor.

VTEC regardless will not engage when the CEL is on (engine light). Your code is coming back to the VTEC solenoid, so for sure your vtec won't engage.

Simple logic dictates that if your car was fine before the timing was done, and now it's not.. It's most likely related to that. I've learnt that coincidences with cars are very possible as well, so really it's tough to say.. Who the hell wants to open everything up again with a timing belt.

The oil pan statement I think is unlikely, but I have heard of that happening before. You can read about it on like honda tech.

First - Make sure there's oil in the car, topped up well.

Second - Make sure the plugs are plugged into the vtec solenoid nice and tight.. Everything is clean. You have a solenoid plug and pressure switch plug. Solenoid plug throws code 21.. pressure is code 22.

Third - Reset ECU just for ****s and giggles

Fourth - Get timing checked with a timing gun!

If all above don't resolve it.. Start troubleshooting VTEC solenoids

Wiring to the solenoid is generally the #1 reason I've heard of for the solenoid not clicking.

 

true ok well today at 5 im going i didnt wake up in timr to go this morning and now hes really busy so im going in at 5 and we're going to check everything out.

but thats wat im saying if my buddy had to take the timing belt off maybe it has somehting to do with it

 

Also, everyone chill (you included EJ1)..

Provide suggestion and try to keep negativety to a minimum.

civicEJ1 is learning about cars as he goes like the rest of us did or are doing.

 

Start with the simpliest things..

- Check your OIL level
- Check the plugs on the solenoid (search for VTEC SOLENOID PIC on google if you're not sure what or where it is)
- Reset the ECU

!! Do this before you go to the mechanic !!

 

kk my oil level is up to the marks i unplugged the pressur switch and the solenoid one and blew them out and everyhing now im jus gonna reset it but i gotta write down the settings i have on my deck for it sounds great right now and dont want it to mess up ahaha

 

yo my bad i got kinda out of line there im just getting frustrated because i tried to save money by gettin my buddy to do the work for me but now i have more head aches

 

Make sure let the battery be off for like 10 minutes.

 

Like I said earlier.....I gurantee your car's timing is way off.
Have you ever driven a car with the timing off....It drives and sounds like ***.
If your car was fine before you replaced the TB.....Then obviously you need to focus on the areas your so called "friend" messed with.
You need a timing gun when replacing a timing belt. Nuff said.

 

true but thats the thing it doesnt drive or sound like **** at all and it idles like 100 rpm lower than it used to so yes instead of like 750 800 its at like 650 600

everything seems fine except no vtec cross over and it feels slower

 

Everything you just said is what you should expect from having your timing off.
You say it does'ent drive like ***......but then you write that it idles funny and it's slow and you have no vtec??
Thats your car driving like *** to me.

 

lol that was a mind over matter thing it was idling fine i was just trying to iunno and of course the my cars going to feel slower with no vtec!

my timing is fine
cuzz my vtec is BACK

 

ok so i wanna thank everyone for ur help

u guys really bring piece of mind when u throw suggestions whether or not its the probelm solving one or not


all it was was a loose connection with the connector thingy from the vtec solenoid theres like a little rubber grommet inside the part that the connector goes into and it was jamming the connecting piece not allowing it to go all the way in but it would snap but clearly it couldve gone in more


rmy buddy had to disconnect that **** to get at the thermostat so i double checked all the wires and saw that that particular one was loose

so again thank all of u i dont noe what id do without TCC

case closed

 

No worries bro. I shouldnt have said some of the things i said either.
Im just trying to help you out as best i can. I wanna see you get your car back and running to the way it used to be as well.
What resolution have you come to?

 

Im glad to hear you figured everything out.
After all this i think you should go out for a beer....haha.
Cheers bud.

 

Did you have to go to the mechanic? Glad its fixed..