water pump t elt fixed, engine light on vtec no cross over
16-Dec-2008, 12:16 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: K-Town
Posts: 891
Man if your car was fine before hand.....and your saying your buddy did'nt use a timing gun after replacing the timing belt......I'll bet your timing is way off.
A tiny dent in your oil pan is not going to screw your whole engine over and start throwing you codes??
A tiny dent in your oil pan is not going to screw your whole engine over and start throwing you codes??
16-Dec-2008, 02:58 AM
#22
yea i think ur right cuzz i called him back to meet him tomorrow to figure it out (my mechanic) and he said he didnt realize i told him my buddy did the timing belt so he said the timing might be off so we'll check everything tomrrow ill keep yall updated ahaha
16-Dec-2008, 06:27 AM
#23
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 170
i think ur totally wrong and ur one of the kind of guys that changes every part instead of eliminating the other possible problems that dont cost anything
when it throws u the code it doesnt mean ur vtec solenoid is broken it means theres something wrong with that system..
when it throws u the code it doesnt mean ur vtec solenoid is broken it means theres something wrong with that system..
Then again thats just me.
16-Dec-2008, 11:34 AM
#24
Just chill for a sec bud....and no im not one of those idiots who just "throws" parts at a car. Dont talk **** when you dont know me. I was just trying to help. The only reason i said it could...key word being could....be the solenoid valve is because i thought everything else was working fine. But apparantly you dont have the proper oil pressure. Maybe if you learn how to drive a lowered car properly you wouldnt have a dented oil pan...and in turn your vtec would still be working.
Then again thats just me.
Then again thats just me.
and for the record i never called u an idiot
16-Dec-2008, 11:44 AM
#25
16-Dec-2008, 02:14 PM
#26
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 246
ok so i got the code it through a 21 which i believe is "VTEC spool solenoid valve"
i was speaking to one of the mechanics at my buddys shop he said if it went into limp mode i wouldnt be able to pass 4K rpm
and before that i had my car on the joist and we noticed a dent in the oil pan and so he said it can be not enough oil going to the solenoid and i asked why wouldnt it come on before when my pan was dented and he gave me a reason something about when i took off the distributor to do the thermostat it can juss randomly decide to do it
so i got a BRAND new HONDA OEM oil pan for 30 bucks and we're gonnna put it on and if its still throwing the code we cango form there so ill keep u guys informed
but at this point its either electrical or mechanical so we'll see how shes goes
any more suggestions will greatly be appreciated
i was speaking to one of the mechanics at my buddys shop he said if it went into limp mode i wouldnt be able to pass 4K rpm
and before that i had my car on the joist and we noticed a dent in the oil pan and so he said it can be not enough oil going to the solenoid and i asked why wouldnt it come on before when my pan was dented and he gave me a reason something about when i took off the distributor to do the thermostat it can juss randomly decide to do it
so i got a BRAND new HONDA OEM oil pan for 30 bucks and we're gonnna put it on and if its still throwing the code we cango form there so ill keep u guys informed
but at this point its either electrical or mechanical so we'll see how shes goes
any more suggestions will greatly be appreciated
Ok I need to provide a bit more clarity around limp mode. Yes your CEL light can be on and you're not in LIMP mode.. It actually depends on the code.. In limp mode the honda OBD1 ecu will limit rpm to 3500 and only use the TPS and TDC sensors to operate the car. That too, by the backup processor.
VTEC regardless will not engage when the CEL is on (engine light). Your code is coming back to the VTEC solenoid, so for sure your vtec won't engage.
Simple logic dictates that if your car was fine before the timing was done, and now it's not.. It's most likely related to that. I've learnt that coincidences with cars are very possible as well, so really it's tough to say.. Who the hell wants to open everything up again with a timing belt.
The oil pan statement I think is unlikely, but I have heard of that happening before. You can read about it on like honda tech.
First - Make sure there's oil in the car, topped up well.
Second - Make sure the plugs are plugged into the vtec solenoid nice and tight.. Everything is clean. You have a solenoid plug and pressure switch plug. Solenoid plug throws code 21.. pressure is code 22.
Third - Reset ECU just for ****s and giggles
Fourth - Get timing checked with a timing gun!
If all above don't resolve it.. Start troubleshooting VTEC solenoids
Wiring to the solenoid is generally the #1 reason I've heard of for the solenoid not clicking.
16-Dec-2008, 02:20 PM
#27
Hey man,
Ok I need to provide a bit more clarity around limp mode. Yes your CEL light can be on and you're not in LIMP mode.. It actually depends on the code.. In limp mode the honda OBD1 ecu will limit rpm to 3500 and only use the TPS and TDC sensors to operate the car. That too, by the backup processor.
VTEC regardless will not engage when the CEL is on (engine light). Your code is coming back to the VTEC solenoid, so for sure your vtec won't engage.
Simple logic dictates that if your car was fine before the timing was done, and now it's not.. It's most likely related to that. I've learnt that coincidences with cars are very possible as well, so really it's tough to say.. Who the hell wants to open everything up again with a timing belt.
The oil pan statement I think is unlikely, but I have heard of that happening before. You can read about it on like honda tech.
First - Make sure there's oil in the car, topped up well.
Second - Make sure the plugs are plugged into the vtec solenoid nice and tight.. Everything is clean. You have a solenoid plug and pressure switch plug. Solenoid plug throws code 21.. pressure is code 22.
Third - Reset ECU just for ****s and giggles
Fourth - Get timing checked with a timing gun!
If all above don't resolve it.. Start troubleshooting VTEC solenoids
Wiring to the solenoid is generally the #1 reason I've heard of for the solenoid not clicking.
Ok I need to provide a bit more clarity around limp mode. Yes your CEL light can be on and you're not in LIMP mode.. It actually depends on the code.. In limp mode the honda OBD1 ecu will limit rpm to 3500 and only use the TPS and TDC sensors to operate the car. That too, by the backup processor.
VTEC regardless will not engage when the CEL is on (engine light). Your code is coming back to the VTEC solenoid, so for sure your vtec won't engage.
Simple logic dictates that if your car was fine before the timing was done, and now it's not.. It's most likely related to that. I've learnt that coincidences with cars are very possible as well, so really it's tough to say.. Who the hell wants to open everything up again with a timing belt.
The oil pan statement I think is unlikely, but I have heard of that happening before. You can read about it on like honda tech.
First - Make sure there's oil in the car, topped up well.
Second - Make sure the plugs are plugged into the vtec solenoid nice and tight.. Everything is clean. You have a solenoid plug and pressure switch plug. Solenoid plug throws code 21.. pressure is code 22.
Third - Reset ECU just for ****s and giggles
Fourth - Get timing checked with a timing gun!
If all above don't resolve it.. Start troubleshooting VTEC solenoids
Wiring to the solenoid is generally the #1 reason I've heard of for the solenoid not clicking.
but thats wat im saying if my buddy had to take the timing belt off maybe it has somehting to do with it
16-Dec-2008, 02:20 PM
#28
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 246
16-Dec-2008, 02:23 PM
#29
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 246
Start with the simpliest things..
- Check your OIL level
- Check the plugs on the solenoid (search for VTEC SOLENOID PIC on google if you're not sure what or where it is)
- Reset the ECU
!! Do this before you go to the mechanic !!
16-Dec-2008, 02:24 PM
#30
kk my oil level is up to the marks i unplugged the pressur switch and the solenoid one and blew them out and everyhing now im jus gonna reset it but i gotta write down the settings i have on my deck for it sounds great right now and dont want it to mess up ahaha
16-Dec-2008, 02:27 PM
#31
yo my bad i got kinda out of line there im just getting frustrated because i tried to save money by gettin my buddy to do the work for me but now i have more head aches
16-Dec-2008, 02:38 PM
#32
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 246
Make sure let the battery be off for like 10 minutes.
16-Dec-2008, 03:08 PM
#33
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: K-Town
Posts: 891
Like I said earlier.....I gurantee your car's timing is way off.
Have you ever driven a car with the timing off....It drives and sounds like ***.
If your car was fine before you replaced the TB.....Then obviously you need to focus on the areas your so called "friend" messed with.
You need a timing gun when replacing a timing belt. Nuff said.
Have you ever driven a car with the timing off....It drives and sounds like ***.
If your car was fine before you replaced the TB.....Then obviously you need to focus on the areas your so called "friend" messed with.
You need a timing gun when replacing a timing belt. Nuff said.
16-Dec-2008, 03:14 PM
#34
Like I said earlier.....I gurantee your car's timing is way off.
Have you ever driven a car with the timing off....It drives and sounds like ***.
If your car was fine before you replaced the TB.....Then obviously you need to focus on the areas your so called "friend" messed with.
You need a timing gun when replacing a timing belt. Nuff said.
Have you ever driven a car with the timing off....It drives and sounds like ***.
If your car was fine before you replaced the TB.....Then obviously you need to focus on the areas your so called "friend" messed with.
You need a timing gun when replacing a timing belt. Nuff said.
everything seems fine except no vtec cross over and it feels slower
16-Dec-2008, 03:22 PM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: K-Town
Posts: 891
You say it does'ent drive like ***......but then you write that it idles funny and it's slow and you have no vtec??
Thats your car driving like *** to me.
16-Dec-2008, 05:20 PM
#36
my timing is fine
cuzz my vtec is BACK
16-Dec-2008, 05:24 PM
#37
ok so i wanna thank everyone for ur help
u guys really bring piece of mind when u throw suggestions whether or not its the probelm solving one or not
all it was was a loose connection with the connector thingy from the vtec solenoid theres like a little rubber grommet inside the part that the connector goes into and it was jamming the connecting piece not allowing it to go all the way in but it would snap but clearly it couldve gone in more
rmy buddy had to disconnect that **** to get at the thermostat so i double checked all the wires and saw that that particular one was loose
so again thank all of u i dont noe what id do without TCC
case closed
u guys really bring piece of mind when u throw suggestions whether or not its the probelm solving one or not
all it was was a loose connection with the connector thingy from the vtec solenoid theres like a little rubber grommet inside the part that the connector goes into and it was jamming the connecting piece not allowing it to go all the way in but it would snap but clearly it couldve gone in more
rmy buddy had to disconnect that **** to get at the thermostat so i double checked all the wires and saw that that particular one was loose
so again thank all of u i dont noe what id do without TCC
case closed
16-Dec-2008, 07:57 PM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 170
Im just trying to help you out as best i can. I wanna see you get your car back and running to the way it used to be as well.
What resolution have you come to?
17-Dec-2008, 09:41 AM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 246
ok so i wanna thank everyone for ur help
u guys really bring piece of mind when u throw suggestions whether or not its the probelm solving one or not
all it was was a loose connection with the connector thingy from the vtec solenoid theres like a little rubber grommet inside the part that the connector goes into and it was jamming the connecting piece not allowing it to go all the way in but it would snap but clearly it couldve gone in more
rmy buddy had to disconnect that **** to get at the thermostat so i double checked all the wires and saw that that particular one was loose
so again thank all of u i dont noe what id do without TCC
case closed
u guys really bring piece of mind when u throw suggestions whether or not its the probelm solving one or not
all it was was a loose connection with the connector thingy from the vtec solenoid theres like a little rubber grommet inside the part that the connector goes into and it was jamming the connecting piece not allowing it to go all the way in but it would snap but clearly it couldve gone in more
rmy buddy had to disconnect that **** to get at the thermostat so i double checked all the wires and saw that that particular one was loose
so again thank all of u i dont noe what id do without TCC
case closed
