water pump t elt fixed, engine light on vtec no cross over
14-Dec-2008, 05:12 PM
#1
water pump t elt fixed, engine light on vtec no cross over
ok so my buddy was changing my water pump and my timing belt and the thermostat and its all good no more leaking coolant and cold air out the vents but now my engine light is on and my vtec doesnt cross over anymore.
he said liquid spilled onto the speed sensor and it might just need to dry up for the engine light to go off but my needle trips out sometimes anyways supposedly becuase of the mechanism in the cluster. but the engine light wasnt on before when it wasent working.
and i dont noe why but my vtec doesnt engage anymore at 5K
any suggestions?
he said liquid spilled onto the speed sensor and it might just need to dry up for the engine light to go off but my needle trips out sometimes anyways supposedly becuase of the mechanism in the cluster. but the engine light wasnt on before when it wasent working.
and i dont noe why but my vtec doesnt engage anymore at 5K
any suggestions?
14-Dec-2008, 07:18 PM
#3
14-Dec-2008, 07:48 PM
#5
im gonna go check the code tomorrow nut iunno what comes out of the thermostat when ur taking it off? iunno but the VSS is right under the thermostat housing but honestly my bigger problem is why doesnt my vtec engage
14-Dec-2008, 09:12 PM
#7
its a stock d16z6 intake and it sucks a lot of air and at 5000 rpm on the dot my vtec would clearly engage. You can hear it kick in loud and then u feel the car start to pick up...now i dont hear it kick in at all and the car feels a little slower i know it
15-Dec-2008, 04:07 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 133
i have spilled gallons of water on my vss doing a heater core flush and never ran into this problem. Once you get that code you'll have better idea of what route to go is this an obd1 d16 setup? you can read the code yourself.
15-Dec-2008, 10:20 AM
#11
true i guess ill fid it out
yeah its obd1 16z6 i heard bout this trick like if the light beeps 10 times itll match the code or somethign? how do u do it or is there a thread already on it OH I NOE honda tech
yeah its obd1 16z6 i heard bout this trick like if the light beeps 10 times itll match the code or somethign? how do u do it or is there a thread already on it OH I NOE honda tech
15-Dec-2008, 10:35 AM
#12
WITH THE CAR OFF, insert either a 2pin connector clip, or loop a thin enough piece of wire into both holes on the connector.
5) Back in the driver's seat, turn the key to the 'ON' position. The CEL light will come on at startup, like normal, but it will then begin to flash.
**By counting the number of flashes, you can decipher the CEL #.
SHORT flashes are single digits (1/2 second)
LONG flashes are 10's (1 second)
for those of u who didnt noe...
5) Back in the driver's seat, turn the key to the 'ON' position. The CEL light will come on at startup, like normal, but it will then begin to flash.
**By counting the number of flashes, you can decipher the CEL #.
SHORT flashes are single digits (1/2 second)
LONG flashes are 10's (1 second)
for those of u who didnt noe...
Last edited by civicEJ1; 15-Dec-2008 at 01:07 PM.
15-Dec-2008, 12:48 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 246
And it starts....
If your engine light is on, that means your car is in Limp mode (Safe mode). In Limp mode, the car uses default numbers to manage air and fuel instead of trusting the sensors. This happens because it believes one or more values coming from one or more sensors is/are drastically off what they should be, so to protect the car it falls into limp mode.
In Limp mode, VTEC will NOT engage, the car will not run at peak performance and it will use more gas.
So once you fix the engine light problem, your VTEC should be back.
I see you posted how to get the code.. Do you understand or are you asking a question? The 2 pin clip is basically under the glovebox area near the ECU for your car.. It will be in a Green plastic holder that has a 3 pin clip and a 2 pin clip. Pop out the 2 pin - short it with a paper clip.. Then turn key to ignition and read the codes from teh blinking engine light.
As for your VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) - That should be sealed, but you could have issues in the wires or clip. Pop of the clip, clean it and put it back.
Reset your ecu.. In you case, just pull the negative on the battery, wait a few mins and reconnect.
Do all this after you've confirmed the code. Report back to us and we'll continue to troubleshoot.
If your engine light is on, that means your car is in Limp mode (Safe mode). In Limp mode, the car uses default numbers to manage air and fuel instead of trusting the sensors. This happens because it believes one or more values coming from one or more sensors is/are drastically off what they should be, so to protect the car it falls into limp mode.
In Limp mode, VTEC will NOT engage, the car will not run at peak performance and it will use more gas.
So once you fix the engine light problem, your VTEC should be back.
I see you posted how to get the code.. Do you understand or are you asking a question? The 2 pin clip is basically under the glovebox area near the ECU for your car.. It will be in a Green plastic holder that has a 3 pin clip and a 2 pin clip. Pop out the 2 pin - short it with a paper clip.. Then turn key to ignition and read the codes from teh blinking engine light.
As for your VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) - That should be sealed, but you could have issues in the wires or clip. Pop of the clip, clean it and put it back.
Reset your ecu.. In you case, just pull the negative on the battery, wait a few mins and reconnect.
Do all this after you've confirmed the code. Report back to us and we'll continue to troubleshoot.
Last edited by Cablerat; 15-Dec-2008 at 12:53 PM.
15-Dec-2008, 12:52 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 246
oh yeah and to your question : "iunno what comes out of the thermostat when ur taking it off?"
That's coolant.
Did your buddy double check the timing with a timing gun to make sure your distributor is set right? You always should double check that after replacing a timing belt.
That's coolant.
Did your buddy double check the timing with a timing gun to make sure your distributor is set right? You always should double check that after replacing a timing belt.
15-Dec-2008, 01:05 PM
#15
And it starts....
If your engine light is on, that means your car is in Limp mode (Safe mode). In Limp mode, the car uses default numbers to manage air and fuel instead of trusting the sensors. This happens because it believes one or more values coming from one or more sensors is/are drastically off what they should be, so to protect the car it falls into limp mode.
In Limp mode, VTEC will NOT engage, the car will not run at peak performance and it will use more gas.
So once you fix the engine light problem, your VTEC should be back.
I see you posted how to get the code.. Do you understand or are you asking a question? The 2 pin clip is basically under the glovebox area near the ECU for your car.. It will be in a Green plastic holder that has a 3 pin clip and a 2 pin clip. Pop out the 2 pin - short it with a paper clip.. Then turn key to ignition and read the codes from teh blinking engine light.
As for your VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) - That should be sealed, but you could have issues in the wires or clip. Pop of the clip, clean it and put it back.
Reset your ecu.. In you case, just pull the negative on the battery, wait a few mins and reconnect.
Do all this after you've confirmed the code. Report back to us and we'll continue to troubleshoot.
If your engine light is on, that means your car is in Limp mode (Safe mode). In Limp mode, the car uses default numbers to manage air and fuel instead of trusting the sensors. This happens because it believes one or more values coming from one or more sensors is/are drastically off what they should be, so to protect the car it falls into limp mode.
In Limp mode, VTEC will NOT engage, the car will not run at peak performance and it will use more gas.
So once you fix the engine light problem, your VTEC should be back.
I see you posted how to get the code.. Do you understand or are you asking a question? The 2 pin clip is basically under the glovebox area near the ECU for your car.. It will be in a Green plastic holder that has a 3 pin clip and a 2 pin clip. Pop out the 2 pin - short it with a paper clip.. Then turn key to ignition and read the codes from teh blinking engine light.
As for your VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) - That should be sealed, but you could have issues in the wires or clip. Pop of the clip, clean it and put it back.
Reset your ecu.. In you case, just pull the negative on the battery, wait a few mins and reconnect.
Do all this after you've confirmed the code. Report back to us and we'll continue to troubleshoot.
ok im going to have to check what this light is first
thanks a lot that was very useful information
and i highly doubt my buddy used a timing gun but how would u noe if ur timing is off? everything feels normal like the idling.
15-Dec-2008, 01:54 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 246
As for timing, you can't really tell if the timing is off by listening to the car and watching idle if it's just off a bit.
Also, there are several things that control idle so you can at times compensate for idle being off due to timing issues.
You need a timing gun check to ensure you're 100% on timing.. Generally, if you replace the belt and don't touch anything else, timing should be the same; However that's assuming your timing was perfect before. Always a good idea to double check.
get your *** out there and check the code.. takes like 5 minutes.
15-Dec-2008, 02:17 PM
#17
ok so i got the code it through a 21 which i believe is "VTEC spool solenoid valve"
i was speaking to one of the mechanics at my buddys shop he said if it went into limp mode i wouldnt be able to pass 4K rpm
and before that i had my car on the joist and we noticed a dent in the oil pan and so he said it can be not enough oil going to the solenoid and i asked why wouldnt it come on before when my pan was dented and he gave me a reason something about when i took off the distributor to do the thermostat it can juss randomly decide to do it
so i got a BRAND new HONDA OEM oil pan for 30 bucks and we're gonnna put it on and if its still throwing the code we cango form there so ill keep u guys informed
but at this point its either electrical or mechanical so we'll see how shes goes
any more suggestions will greatly be appreciated
i was speaking to one of the mechanics at my buddys shop he said if it went into limp mode i wouldnt be able to pass 4K rpm
and before that i had my car on the joist and we noticed a dent in the oil pan and so he said it can be not enough oil going to the solenoid and i asked why wouldnt it come on before when my pan was dented and he gave me a reason something about when i took off the distributor to do the thermostat it can juss randomly decide to do it
so i got a BRAND new HONDA OEM oil pan for 30 bucks and we're gonnna put it on and if its still throwing the code we cango form there so ill keep u guys informed
but at this point its either electrical or mechanical so we'll see how shes goes
any more suggestions will greatly be appreciated
15-Dec-2008, 09:51 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 170
If its the spool solenoid valve.....shouldnt you be replacing that.
Its the solenoid for vtec operation and the check engine light is telling you its not performing properly...thus not engaging vtec.
Or am i totally wrong on this?
Its the solenoid for vtec operation and the check engine light is telling you its not performing properly...thus not engaging vtec.
Or am i totally wrong on this?
15-Dec-2008, 11:11 PM
#19
just because it says that doesnt mean u change it can be the system
Last edited by civicEJ1; 16-Dec-2008 at 11:44 AM.
