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SWAP D16Y8 for a D15B

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Old 16-Sep-2010, 12:10 PM
  #41  
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I'm going to be taking it to the shop on Saturday, I've just been driving around with the problem, toooo busy!.... Yes a new intake manifold gasket was used...... could it be the torqing or something else.... like you said, could be vaccum line under the intake manifold....
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Old 30-Dec-2010, 05:55 PM
  #42  
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this d15b vtec is a pain in the #$%!!!! im having so much problems getting this thing working properly anyone know where i could get it fixed? i got the motor swapped now the mechanic doesnt know how to fix the iavc 3 to 2 wire problem basicly the car is running just not smooth .... any help??? btw the car is a 97 coupe.
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Old 30-Dec-2010, 10:15 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by TuRk_
this d15b vtec is a pain in the #$%!!!! im having so much problems getting this thing working properly anyone know where i could get it fixed? i got the motor swapped now the mechanic doesnt know how to fix the iavc 3 to 2 wire problem basicly the car is running just not smooth .... any help??? btw the car is a 97 coupe.

take it to highvelocity , the are expert when it comes down to swap problems
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Old 31-Dec-2010, 07:31 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by TuRk_
this d15b vtec is a pain in the #$%!!!! im having so much problems getting this thing working properly anyone know where i could get it fixed? i got the motor swapped now the mechanic doesnt know how to fix the iavc 3 to 2 wire problem basicly the car is running just not smooth .... any help??? btw the car is a 97 coupe.
PM zeeman at hivelocity. He'll fix it up no problem.
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Old 07-Jan-2011, 09:48 PM
  #45  
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ok I didn't want to make a whole new thread for this but I have the same problem as the op and would like some resolution to this problem as well.

My situation is I bought a el with a blown engine went to jap importer place and they sold me a d15b vtec-e as a replacement for the d16y8 they said everything would be fine just use the d16 intake manifold. well I have it installed in the car now with the stock d16y8 ecu and the car idles nice drives ok but really low on power and averages 300km's on a full tank of gas. even passed e-test ok but I really want the fuel milage around 5-600 where it should be atleast. I have searched around and called andrew and eric at ******** and they both pretty muched said find the proper ecu which is rarer than a unicorn.

I have the d16 vtec solenoid installed right now and after reading a post earlier about how the dual stage vtec works would like to try to keep power on the first stage of the d15b vtec solenoid so it runs in low lift 16 valve mode all the time.

Can I just hook up 12v key-on power to test this idea?, or does it require a resistor to reduce voltage to the solenoid? any help would be great.
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Old 10-Jan-2011, 09:28 AM
  #46  
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^You should be able to put power to the 16V vtec solenoid with key-on power and it should work fine.

And yeah, the d15b vtec-e were designed for fuel economy. So if you can find the proper ecu, it would probably be a lot more efficient.

Another option would be to use a chipped obdI ecu and have it tuned. An experienced tuner should be able to tune for WOT performance and part-throttle fuel economy.
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Old 10-Jan-2011, 06:34 PM
  #47  
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Yeah like I said I did call high v elocity and t eknotik and spoke with both of them and neither said they had tuned for it before but could be done if I was willing to spend $400-500 in doing so, I paid just a little over that for the whole car so not looking to spend that kind of money for a fix right now.

today however I did get a chance to play with it and heres what happened. to start off with the d15b vtec solenoids have one red wire and one green w/yellow trace and from the reading I have done it was noted that the red wire solenoid was the one for the second stage and green for third stage. I had the harness side of the connector from the dual solenoid valve which made wiring a little cleaner so I repined the green wire into the d16 harness as usual and took 12v from the battery to the red wire just to test with .

When I first put 12v to the red wire at idle with car warmed up I could hear what sounded like random, slow, valve hitting piston noises from the valve cover and was a little concerned at first but revved up to around 2000rpm and it would go away, so I assumed that there was not enough oil pressure for the lifters to engage properly so had to build up pressure then go on/off quickly at random. I took it for a drive and it was alot more responsive right away but when driven past 5500rpm there was no noticeable change over to the third stage. Mayby honda used the green wire for the first stage on the d15b?

Also to note after going on the first test drive I pulled over and unhooked the 12v to the red wire and drove again and around 5800rpm you could hear the change over so the stock p2p ecu is sending a signal through the stock wire for vtec. I also noticed that there is a pressure switch in the stock d16 vtec solenoid, and in the d15b solenoid there are two tapped ports(one for each oil galley) with only plugs in them so I took the oil pressure switch and put it into the galley for the green wire valve because my thinking is that the ecu needed to see that there was pressure getting there so it can change timing accordingly?

ignition timing is set to 12btdc as per the d16y8 manual, so all I can think of right now to try is hook the green wire up with 12v key on power and red wire to the factory green wire on harness side, then change the pressure switch to the other oil galley for the red wire solenoid?

sorry for long post trying to be as descriptive as possible.
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Old 15-Jan-2011, 01:17 PM
  #48  
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I have the d16y7 to d15b 3 stage vtec engine swap in my 97 ej6 coupe ....

I was having so much problems with this car when I did the engine swap took me forever to get it working good. took it to a shop so they could wire it up for me properly ( iacv + the double vtec wiring )

I was so lucky that the engine actually came with its proper ECU p2j-003 which is for manual trans ...

No matter what if u want this car running properly/max power you need to get the proper ecu either the p2j-003 for manual or automatic p2j-j62 ... i used a p28 just to pass the etest and let me tell you the car runs like absolute **** no power what so ever couldn't even make it to 6k rpm ... with the proper ecu the car runs amazing n i can max out 7.5k rpm now it pulls hard for a 1.5 liter.
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Old 25-Jan-2011, 12:37 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 2drcivic
I agree I want to keep it close to stock as possible. This is my commuter and I want something very good on gas. I go from pickering to Mississauga mon-fri so I need efficiency!

Just drove the car, it drives okay but I can really feel the lack of vtec but its not so bad.

I am running stock D16y8 ECU and I experienced the following:

1. Check engine code: P1337. Something about a throttle flucutuation sensor. I think I need to mod the ECU

2. Speedo not working

3. Its not idling correctly. Jumping between 2-3 rpm. Mechanic pointed out that new engine does not have one of those idle valves. I took the valve, it basically has an inlet and outlet and connects somewhere close to the thermostat

Dude let me know if ure the right person to do the work on the vtec solenoid.....not sure if u have a shop, but if u do lemme know

Thanks
Hey Man, I know this is a bit old but there's one mod you gotta do to make your 16y8 intake work with the d15B. there are 4 little cold start assist holes on the intake manifold that have to be plugged. tap it out and us 4mm screws. IF they're not plugged they cause a vacuum leak as D15B's didn't have cold start assist. After that you'll be a lot happier with your 15b! Check this site to see the pics:

http://wiki.clubcivicquebec.com/inde...e=D16y7_intake

you can use google translator to translate it decently. Trust me this will solve your idle issues as long as everything else is all good.
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Old 25-Jan-2011, 12:38 AM
  #50  
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Oops here's the site!

D16y7 intake - CCQWiki
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