So i have this B18C1
#21
#22
i dont know how many kms are on the motor cause it was already pulled from the car.
question guys
do you think its vital to add torque mounts?
i know alot of guys dont do it when u do a swap
and i realized that i should just change the tranny fluid as well while im there
amsoil ftw!
question guys
do you think its vital to add torque mounts?
i know alot of guys dont do it when u do a swap
and i realized that i should just change the tranny fluid as well while im there
amsoil ftw!
#28
#29
If you go turbo or NA with cams etc. (more extreme mods) you will need to get a chipped obd1 ecu with a conversion hardness to be able to tune the engine.
Last edited by MPR; 05-Jul-2010 at 07:05 PM.
#31
k boys..
right now
it looks like i cannot afford to do a turbo
so i wanted to something in the mean time to get a little UMPH outta the motor
i already have a 2" 1/4 exhaust with a resonator and a 400CFM high flow cat
i was thinking of :
getting a DC header for now 4-2-1
MAYBE a skunk2 intake manifold ( if not just leave the stock manifold)
cold air intake (AEM or whale *****)
and a tune
what do you think?
im looking to break the bank but i wanna get the motor running good and not too rich or lean.
right now
it looks like i cannot afford to do a turbo
so i wanted to something in the mean time to get a little UMPH outta the motor
i already have a 2" 1/4 exhaust with a resonator and a 400CFM high flow cat
i was thinking of :
getting a DC header for now 4-2-1
MAYBE a skunk2 intake manifold ( if not just leave the stock manifold)
cold air intake (AEM or whale *****)
and a tune
what do you think?
im looking to break the bank but i wanna get the motor running good and not too rich or lean.
#33
Ditch the stock GSR intake manifold with the silly secondary butterfly valve setup and get a better one. That plus header should yield some small but decent gains with proper tuning. 2-1/4" exhaust is a tad small imo for a b-series. 2.5 is more ideal.
Whale ***** = over-rated. Just get a no-name cheap short-ram and swap the cheap filter for a K&N.
Whale ***** = over-rated. Just get a no-name cheap short-ram and swap the cheap filter for a K&N.
#35
well guys after some thinking i dont see myself boosting this at least for another 2 years or so..
i did a compression test which i told you about & the numbers were mint! (210 210 210 205) its from a 96 GSR and the motor had 208xxxkms
Im in the process of dropping the oil pan soon & take a look inside
now from what ive been researching it doesnt look like its worth spending that $1000 parts to make ~10whp
& with regards to the tune.. i had a previously a D16Z6 in it, and inside my exhaust was black.. i was running too rich.. thats why i wanted to tune the motor to somewhat balance that issue and also help me on fuel mileage
again sorry boys if any of these comments sound dumb.. its my first time doing a swap so im still a n00b @ this and i do appreciate anyones feedback ( thx MPR LOL)
Now i seem to be getting the same response.. everyone is saying to change the cams on the motor to either ITR/CTR/SK2 & that upgrading the IM is not worth the $$ now if im gonna boost it later
now i know this is a stupid question but i gotta ask it
if i get an Skunk2 intake manifold can that be used if i boost the car later? or will that have to be replaced as well?
i did a compression test which i told you about & the numbers were mint! (210 210 210 205) its from a 96 GSR and the motor had 208xxxkms
Im in the process of dropping the oil pan soon & take a look inside
now from what ive been researching it doesnt look like its worth spending that $1000 parts to make ~10whp
& with regards to the tune.. i had a previously a D16Z6 in it, and inside my exhaust was black.. i was running too rich.. thats why i wanted to tune the motor to somewhat balance that issue and also help me on fuel mileage
again sorry boys if any of these comments sound dumb.. its my first time doing a swap so im still a n00b @ this and i do appreciate anyones feedback ( thx MPR LOL)
Now i seem to be getting the same response.. everyone is saying to change the cams on the motor to either ITR/CTR/SK2 & that upgrading the IM is not worth the $$ now if im gonna boost it later
now i know this is a stupid question but i gotta ask it
if i get an Skunk2 intake manifold can that be used if i boost the car later? or will that have to be replaced as well?
#36
also** i forgot to mention
im changing the timing belt/ water pump/ tensioner
spark plugs/wires
changing the brake fluid & clutch fluid to Racing Blue Dot 4 fluid
and im also gonna do a combustion chamber cleaner on the motor
Mobil 1 15-50W oil
91 Octane gas ( is it worth putting 94? my only concern is if i dont find a gas station that carries it im screwed ;s)
and im putting in an 160A high output alternator
ive also upgraded the Big 3 in my system ( for all those that dont know its the grounds on your car, battery to alternator, engine to chassis, battery to ground)
& the transmission oil, im putting Amsoil and lucas 50Wt
im changing the timing belt/ water pump/ tensioner
spark plugs/wires
changing the brake fluid & clutch fluid to Racing Blue Dot 4 fluid
and im also gonna do a combustion chamber cleaner on the motor
Mobil 1 15-50W oil
91 Octane gas ( is it worth putting 94? my only concern is if i dont find a gas station that carries it im screwed ;s)
and im putting in an 160A high output alternator
ive also upgraded the Big 3 in my system ( for all those that dont know its the grounds on your car, battery to alternator, engine to chassis, battery to ground)
& the transmission oil, im putting Amsoil and lucas 50Wt
#37
The skunk2 intake mani is better for boost and especially for NA. It's worth the upgrade imo. Especially if you're going to have it tuned while it's NA.
As for cams, stick with oem. Don't get stage 2's or anything like that. They are designed for optimum NA efficiency/power which means lots of overlap in the timing. That is bad for boost. Again stick with oem ctr, itr, gsr or b16 cams. They will make good power NA and are very good for boost.
Tune the engine for 91 fuel.
As for cams, stick with oem. Don't get stage 2's or anything like that. They are designed for optimum NA efficiency/power which means lots of overlap in the timing. That is bad for boost. Again stick with oem ctr, itr, gsr or b16 cams. They will make good power NA and are very good for boost.
Tune the engine for 91 fuel.
#38
I agree with MPR on most of this the only thing I might so different is suggest you don't bother changing anything for now. start collecting parts for boost and don't waste money on things you won't need later. Mike was sorta saying this just not directly. The stock IM on your GSR can be modded to work quite nicely if you find someone who knows what they're doing but to be safe the sk2 IM is nice. You may wanna find a hondata gasket to go with it along with an ITR or sk2 TB, but really only if you plan on BIG numbers stock IM and TB will get you over 200. Really if your not going for crazy high numbers then I'd say just get a kit and bolt it up, don't bother changing things, problem is though, boost is addictive and will leave you wanting more. You might for this reason wanna do internals now while it's out then do things like the IM and TB later if you need them. Same for cams, your stock cams will be fine for mild boost, you really only need to change them later if you find you want to go even faster.
#39
see thats the thing
ppl are telling me now to change the internals since its already out of the car
especially if im doing boost later,, i should build it for that
now i gotta find some good brand names and have an idea on what i wanna do with it
ppl are telling me now to change the internals since its already out of the car
especially if im doing boost later,, i should build it for that
now i gotta find some good brand names and have an idea on what i wanna do with it
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