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-   -   So i have this B18C1 (https://www.civicforumz.com/engine-54/so-i-have-b18c1-171269/)

iTaLiAn_vIrUs 26-Jun-2010 06:15 PM

So i have this B18C1
 
im debating on either boosting it ex turbo or super charged

or keep it NA.

im currently waiting back on #'s from the compression test.

i know i have to change my
cams
intake manifold
pistons/rods/rings (debatable)

now if i wanna keep it NA;

what parts are sufficient to get a little more out of the motor?.. cams/intake?



& i know if i go boost
im gonna have to bore out the motor & change the pistons/rods/rings, injectors etc


i know one way is more expensive than the other

& i know with turbo as long as ur pockets are deep u can achieve whatever ude like.

even if i get a NA GSR with some mods pushing at least 210hp ill be content

what do you guys think?

D.T.P 26-Jun-2010 06:19 PM

I say go boost. Otherwise you will spend a lot of money at a machine shop trying to get everything ported and polished just to see minor gains. Hell if your motor is healthy, just throw a turbo kit on it, low psi on moderate sized turbo will do you good.

MPR 26-Jun-2010 07:17 PM

You don't need to do anything to the internals to boost it if your compression is good.

Getting over 200whp NA could end up costing you MORE then 250whp with a proper turbo setup.

You'd have to change internals for building it NA. It'll need at least skunk2 stage 2 cams or similar, and with that, you'll have to upgrade the valve springs/retainers, it'll have to rev higher to make use of those bigger cams, so you'll have to have the rotating assembly balanced, you'll also need at least 11.5:1 compression which means you'll need aftermarket pistons and or shave the head down...the list goes on...

There is a lot more work and cost involved in building a motor for NA power. You can build a turbo setup with a stock engine that will still be reliable, cost less and make more power.

I've done the research, it makes more sense to go turbo. You'll meet your power goals more easily and as long as the components are of good quality and are properly selected and installed, and the engine is tuned properly, it'll be every bit as reliable as a built NA motor, and be more streetable.

Go turbo.

My two cents.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs 27-Jun-2010 03:38 AM

really?

i just assumed that when ur going boost you have to upgrade ur internals
i wasnt aware that even if ur compression is good you dont have to do it. thxx


well with that being said
im assuming its not good to get an ebay kit or any nonsense like that,, its worth investing the money in a proper setup?

l.d.forget 27-Jun-2010 05:42 AM

the b series motors have pretty good internals as it is. Just get yourself a good name brand turbo, a good header or a custom header,and a quality name brand bov and wastegate. The intercooler piping is okay to get off ebay, and usually the intercooler is okay too.

nsxvtec 27-Jun-2010 07:24 AM


Originally Posted by iTaLiAn_vIrUs (Post 1463959)
im debating on either boosting it ex turbo or super charged

or keep it NA.

im currently waiting back on #'s from the compression test.

Just curious,

Why are you waiting for numbers back on compression test?? From who??? You do a leakdown and compression test and see the results right there and then. There should be no wait.

l.d.forget 27-Jun-2010 09:54 AM

im guessing he is buying the motor from someone but doesnt have it yet, and sale is pending on the compression test.

nemo1 27-Jun-2010 11:14 AM

boost gets you laid

iTaLiAn_vIrUs 27-Jun-2010 11:41 PM

bingo i.d. forget lol & thx for the input!




LMAO @ nemo1
hahah

jdm_77 29-Jun-2010 09:14 AM

boost FTW!!

iTaLiAn_vIrUs 01-Jul-2010 10:46 AM

well the #'s are good
all over 200

right now i just want to do the essentials

timing belt/water pump/ tensioner/ alternator

im thinking of what else should be done to make sure the engine is up to snuff

MPR 02-Jul-2010 09:51 AM

^How many km's on the motor? Is it currently in the car? Does it burn oil?

Do a compression and leak-down test for starters.

If all is well, it should be good to go.

Replacing the timing belt, water pump and tensioner is always a good idea, especially if you don't know when it was last done.

Replacing the alternator is not necessary (unless it really does need replacing), it has no effect on the engine itself.

l.d.forget 02-Jul-2010 11:16 AM


Originally Posted by MPR (Post 1464572)
Do a compression and leak-down test for starters. .


Originally Posted by iTaLiAn_vIrUs (Post 1464501)
well the #'s are good
all over 200

lol...

MPR 03-Jul-2010 02:00 PM

^That's why I said after "if all is well then you should be good to go".

l.d.forget 03-Jul-2010 02:26 PM

yeah but you asked the question after he already gave the answer, lol.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs 04-Jul-2010 11:22 AM


Originally Posted by l.d.forget (Post 1464683)
yeah but you asked the question after he already gave the answer, lol.

its the thought that counts ;) haha

l.d.forget 04-Jul-2010 11:24 AM

hahaha

iTaLiAn_vIrUs 04-Jul-2010 12:09 PM

i dont know how many kms are on the motor cause it was already pulled from the car.


question guys

do you think its vital to add torque mounts?
i know alot of guys dont do it when u do a swap


and i realized that i should just change the tranny fluid as well while im there
amsoil ftw!

l.d.forget 04-Jul-2010 12:11 PM

most people use Honda Transmission Fluid or GM Syncromesh.

iTaLiAn_vIrUs 04-Jul-2010 12:42 PM


Originally Posted by l.d.forget (Post 1464740)
most people use Honda Transmission Fluid or GM Syncromesh.

if you search on here
i did a thread on different types of transmission fluids

right now
im using amsoil and 50wt lucas gear oil
and im loving it
shifting is as smooth as butter!


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