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High Idle on D16Z6

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Old 29-Jun-2009, 10:24 AM
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High Idle on D16Z6

So Saturday I finished up my D16Z6 mini-me swap. D15B7 block with D16Z6 head (milled, and valve job and new seals). So here is my problem. The idles unusually high, if I had a tach I could tell you exact numbers, around 1500 rpm or so I would say. I have been trying to fine tune it with the idle adjusting screw on the front the of the intake manifold but it still seems too high. Where could my problem be? Oh and another piece information you may need is the ECU is a P28 chipped. Thanks.
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Old 29-Jun-2009, 12:40 PM
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Vacuum leak? Check ur hoses and if that fails try changing ur MAP sensor with a known good one
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Old 29-Jun-2009, 02:59 PM
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You can use a volt meter to check your MAP sensor I believe.
I remember reading about using electrical tape to solve some type r's idling to high... I think I found that on Honda Tech. just and idea to google for.
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Old 29-Jun-2009, 03:02 PM
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Would a vacuum leak from the clutch reservior cause a high idle? Cause I know I have a vacuum leak there (I hear it when I press the clutch in) but it was there before I swapped the heads. MAP sensor is very possible cause I had an issue with the MAP sensor on the B7 intake before I bought another MAP. I am thinking a dirty intake (throttle body and IAC) could possibly also cause this problem, what do you think?
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Old 30-Jun-2009, 08:06 AM
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It was the MAP sensor. I replaced it with the one I had on my D15B7 and now it idles just fine, the only problem now is the valve lash is not right on cylinders 3 and 4.
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Old 30-Jun-2009, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 95 EJ Coupe
Would a vacuum leak from the clutch reservior cause a high idle? Cause I know I have a vacuum leak there (I hear it when I press the clutch in) but it was there before I swapped the heads. MAP sensor is very possible cause I had an issue with the MAP sensor on the B7 intake before I bought another MAP. I am thinking a dirty intake (throttle body and IAC) could possibly also cause this problem, what do you think?
Your clutch system does not use a vacuum whatsoever.

Plenty of things could cause a high idle.
vacuum leak
mal-adjusted idle screw
tps
stuck IACV
FITV, etc.

You have to check all these things. If you can't figure it out, send me a PM and I can look at it for you.
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Old 30-Jun-2009, 03:35 PM
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You should really have a tach so you can know what the exact RPM is.
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Old 01-Jul-2009, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by seanv98
You should really have a tach so you can know what the exact RPM is.
That would be a big help I know. It would probably also help if it read in KPH instead of MILES. Cause this is Canada.
The reason I mentioned that about the clutch is cause I only noticed it sounded like a vacuum leak when I pressed the clutch in. I didn't think there would be a vacuum there, so I am confused there.
The idle I somewhat fixed. Just now, occassionally, when I come to a stop the car runs rough and nearly dies. The RPM will fall big time and it takes a good press (basically to the floor) on the gas before it revs up again. Anyone know this problem? Could it be like chris_v2 was saying?
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Old 01-Jul-2009, 11:13 AM
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Well, you did adjust your idle...
When me car is cold (B18C ITR) it idles anywhere from 1200-2000, once it's hot enough, it idles around 700-1100... Maybe you adjusted it wrong.

Fix your damn vacuum leak. Why not?
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Old 02-Jul-2009, 01:32 PM
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Yeah I did adjust the idle thats very true. I fixed the valve lash and now the high idle is back. It's like F8i said what was doing. Idles high when cold and calms down when it gets warmer. I am having all kinds of issues with it. The car seems to be having TPS issues or something cause when I go to punch the car in 1st, it nearly dies. Yesterday the temp gauge keep getting hotter and a one point was nearly 3/4. Threw a CEL, but when I went to check it nothing. Started the car again and all better. Steady temp gauge and no CEL. Coolant sensor? Or thermostat? That brings me to the second thing. There was no pressure in the coolant system when I open the rad cap after it was hot. This has been a confusing thing since VTEC swapping.
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Old 02-Jul-2009, 04:22 PM
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If you have a real problem with your TPS, your engine will give you an SOS... Put your clutch in or neutral, it will rev high stop rev high stop... that's a TPS's SOS.
If it's bogged down, maybe its your spark plugs... not hard to take them (all) out and check the ends.
Temp going up, then dropping happens. Sometimes caused my a sticky (crappy) thermostat. It's a 10$ fix.
Check for a leak, I think coolant runs about 22lbs'ish. Also, just because it's hot doesn't mean the thermostat is open... How long did you wait...

More on bogged launch, distributor (ignition <-- right word?) maybe, distributor plugs/wires, fuel filter, clogged injectors... there's a big list.
Stop driving the car like you stole it, until it's fixed.

I hope this isn't a Flat Black Coupe 95 civic near the Paisley area....
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Old 06-Jul-2009, 09:26 AM
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Well here's where I am with it today. Yesterday it was so bad the car barely moved. I am gonna swap out either the TB or the entire Intake Manifold. Just so you know I don't live out here T.O., more like 4 hours south from T.O.
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Old 06-Jul-2009, 10:47 AM
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What do your spark plugs look like?
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Old 07-Jul-2009, 04:22 PM
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Spark plugs looked pretty good. One question here I am confused beyond sanity about. The coolant bypass hose that runs from the bottom of the TB to the Intake Manifold. On the Z6 manifold were do you connect it? Cause on the B7 thermostat housing there is a coolant bypass hose that runs to the top of the IM. The one blocked off in the pic runs to the FIV at the bottom of the TB on the B7. So since the Z6 doesnt have this fitting on the IM where do I run the FIV?
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Old 07-Jul-2009, 06:46 PM
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Well the CEL finally stayed on long enough for me to be able to check it today. Here is the results.
7 - TPS
22 - VTEC Pressure (sensor is broken so no surprise)
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Old 08-Jul-2009, 06:46 PM
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Changed out the TB today and the car runs and drives like new (or close enough lol). VTEC and all.
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