94 si - pass 4000rpm no go
13-Jul-2010, 12:47 AM
#21
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Join Date: Jul 2010
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you mean "turbo = b series"
naw i want just raw power ive always heard h22. Can i see pics of your pride n joy so i can be motivated ! =) buddy has a b16 so obv i do want to surprise him and show off mines when its done. money wise i really dont care, i want to have a good time building. no turbo for me though. just still fast enough to eat anyone.
naw i want just raw power ive always heard h22. Can i see pics of your pride n joy so i can be motivated ! =) buddy has a b16 so obv i do want to surprise him and show off mines when its done. money wise i really dont care, i want to have a good time building. no turbo for me though. just still fast enough to eat anyone.
13-Jul-2010, 12:52 AM
#22
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 413
h22 would probably be perfect for you then. I just got my timing belt in today so i can finish the swap (it was the last part that i needed). Heres a picture of it in the bay, theres much better pictures out there though.
i should have some much better pictures within the next could weeks. Just need to get my flywheel resurfaced.
i should have some much better pictures within the next could weeks. Just need to get my flywheel resurfaced.
13-Jul-2010, 12:58 AM
#23
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Join Date: Jul 2010
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wow that thinng looks liek it barely fits. i work at a lube shop, never came across a h22 swap yet. so thats how it looks. so again its just mounts n axles ? i cant find any h22 full swap setup. ya again i want all motor power. you got a place for these things or you just keep an eye for parts and buy em ?
13-Jul-2010, 01:03 AM
#25
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LOL nice. i need tips so i just got this thing havent taken it in to my store and look at it yets. what should i be looking for before i begin this journey. for now i should just replace the clutch so its driveable at least
13-Jul-2010, 03:40 AM
#27
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I would suggest against getting h22. Don't wanna hate on the h22 lover here (no offence lol) but there are better motors out there. There was a perfect example of why h22 isn't ideal at the Honda showoff few weeks back. 5th gen lude with h22a4 and typeS intake manifold made 81whp on the 3rd run. The sleeves are absolute crap. the sleeves are also not serviceable therefore its not recommended by Honda that you bore/hone and replace pistons/rings. So you are left with re-sleeving. Then finding 87mm+ bore pistons isn't that easy. To top it all off, the transmission ratios were crappy. The one decent trans was type S and the accord sir-wagon since 4drs were auto as far as I remember. Though you could get the h2b kit but that's quite a lot of cash.
If you don't want to go B-series then the f20b out of accord Euro-r is identical to h22 but destroked and has higher compression. Though slightly less torque, the cast iron sleeves compliments the compresion nicely without any potential compression losses and oil burning issues oh so commonly known to h-series engines and their FRM sleeves. Something else to keep in mind with the h/f series engines is that they are huge! Should take a pic, I just ripped out an h22 out of a prelude and its beside my other B20v, and you can clearly tell the spacing issue. Servicing timing belt is...well impossible since these motors have the balancer belt and the auto belt tensioner which will be impossible to remove while engine is in the car. In addition to that, cutting holes in your body for the shifter.
So seems like a lot of work just to make it work. Hell if you got cash to burn, build a mean B20v all motor beast. Now I'm not trying to be biased towards the B20v since I'm building one but if you do it right you will see some amazing numbers plus used parts are a LOT easier to find than h-series.
Again this is just my opinion, and to each their own. And l.d. Forget don't take my dislike for h22 personally, but I've been around them for longer than you and I think I've seen the worst of them. Only cool thing is the stock oil cooler, but that's about it.
If you don't want to go B-series then the f20b out of accord Euro-r is identical to h22 but destroked and has higher compression. Though slightly less torque, the cast iron sleeves compliments the compresion nicely without any potential compression losses and oil burning issues oh so commonly known to h-series engines and their FRM sleeves. Something else to keep in mind with the h/f series engines is that they are huge! Should take a pic, I just ripped out an h22 out of a prelude and its beside my other B20v, and you can clearly tell the spacing issue. Servicing timing belt is...well impossible since these motors have the balancer belt and the auto belt tensioner which will be impossible to remove while engine is in the car. In addition to that, cutting holes in your body for the shifter.
So seems like a lot of work just to make it work. Hell if you got cash to burn, build a mean B20v all motor beast. Now I'm not trying to be biased towards the B20v since I'm building one but if you do it right you will see some amazing numbers plus used parts are a LOT easier to find than h-series.
Again this is just my opinion, and to each their own. And l.d. Forget don't take my dislike for h22 personally, but I've been around them for longer than you and I think I've seen the worst of them. Only cool thing is the stock oil cooler, but that's about it.
13-Jul-2010, 08:43 AM
#28
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Join Date: Feb 2010
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i think the reason you hate on the H is because your experience is with a4 motors. The a4 is arguably a totally different motor, and ill agree with you, a piece of ****. The a1 and jdm h22a-a1 style motors are totally different.
13-Jul-2010, 10:26 AM
#30
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Location: Where my car is.
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To the OP: If you have money to burn and want something that will last and put down 180-190whp out of the box with no other mods... Swap in a k20.
If money were no object, it would be my choice of engine 110%.
If money were no object, it would be my choice of engine 110%.
13-Jul-2010, 07:04 PM
#31
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L.d forget, all h-series motors used FRM sleeves, so I don't see how it would be any different really.
Ps I believe you ment the jdm h22a? Not a1
Though I agree with Mike, if you have $ then k20a is an easy solution.
Ps I believe you ment the jdm h22a? Not a1
Though I agree with Mike, if you have $ then k20a is an easy solution.
13-Jul-2010, 07:32 PM
#32
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When i say jdm h22a/a1 style, i mean the jdm h22a, from 92-95, the a1 style of motor, as opposed to the a4 style motor. The a4's are more prone to the oil burning than a1's. I dont believe it has to do with the sleeves like you keep implying.
13-Jul-2010, 08:40 PM
#33
it's the sleeves. almost never happens on the JDM h22's but on USDM ones the cylinder walls develop what looks like if you pressed your knuckles into play-dough about half way down. this can cause them to pass leak down and compression tests but if you put the piston at about half and try a leak down again you'll see the results change rapidly.
I'm an AHAP graduate, and Honda not only taught me how to diagnose this problem but showed me a block they have where this was the case, and they admit that it was a problem they never did solve. That's why they gave up on that idea and dropped the H series for something new.
As for the K's, well they're alright as long as you make sure the oil is good and check it a lot. I have seen several that went due to oil starvation issues. B's and D's were the reliable ones that you could beat on all day and they'd come back asking for more. K's also like H's require you to mod your car in ways that make it a hassle should you later decide a B swap was a better idea, and yes this happens. Rare but it does.
Personally, if money isn't the issue buy a good type R, complete swap, leave the near perfect engine Honda engineers spent a lot of time and money in R&D on and put that in there. Just be sure to buy from a reputable vendor. The added cost is better then getting scammed by a D-bag with a toasted motor.
I'm an AHAP graduate, and Honda not only taught me how to diagnose this problem but showed me a block they have where this was the case, and they admit that it was a problem they never did solve. That's why they gave up on that idea and dropped the H series for something new.
As for the K's, well they're alright as long as you make sure the oil is good and check it a lot. I have seen several that went due to oil starvation issues. B's and D's were the reliable ones that you could beat on all day and they'd come back asking for more. K's also like H's require you to mod your car in ways that make it a hassle should you later decide a B swap was a better idea, and yes this happens. Rare but it does.
Personally, if money isn't the issue buy a good type R, complete swap, leave the near perfect engine Honda engineers spent a lot of time and money in R&D on and put that in there. Just be sure to buy from a reputable vendor. The added cost is better then getting scammed by a D-bag with a toasted motor.
13-Jul-2010, 08:49 PM
#34
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 413
this is a picture of my a1 cylender with (from what the guy said) 160k. This motor was used and abused with the worst gas and poor oil change frequency.
heres a picture of the head for that motor...proof that it was abused with shitty gas, haha.
heres a picture of the head for that motor...proof that it was abused with shitty gas, haha.
14-Jul-2010, 02:49 AM
#35
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L.d forget, I don't make things up. I've heard from many people about this issue and advised my brother against buying the 5th gen lude, now I'm stuck with swapping the engine for him.
Also I remember once he got the car and I met up with ol'dusty at a meet, first thing he asked "how much oil does it burn". Take time, driving around when you are a prelude in manual step on the gas harder, you'll see black smoke. I say manual because ones in auto tend to survive a little longer/better since drivers don't beat on them. Though keeping in mind my hatch is a lot lighter than a prelude, h22 is a lot stronger/torquer than a b20, and I still pulled on so many of them. Only 1 time I took a loss and it was with my old DA, 4people+me in the car. Lol
L.d. Forget, are you using that block you posted? I've heard many people replacing rings/valve seals to prevent oil burning issue, it helps but doesn't eliminate the problem. hope it works out for you, but just saying, heard and seen too many problems with these. Just my 0.02cents.
Also I remember once he got the car and I met up with ol'dusty at a meet, first thing he asked "how much oil does it burn". Take time, driving around when you are a prelude in manual step on the gas harder, you'll see black smoke. I say manual because ones in auto tend to survive a little longer/better since drivers don't beat on them. Though keeping in mind my hatch is a lot lighter than a prelude, h22 is a lot stronger/torquer than a b20, and I still pulled on so many of them. Only 1 time I took a loss and it was with my old DA, 4people+me in the car. Lol
L.d. Forget, are you using that block you posted? I've heard many people replacing rings/valve seals to prevent oil burning issue, it helps but doesn't eliminate the problem. hope it works out for you, but just saying, heard and seen too many problems with these. Just my 0.02cents.
14-Jul-2010, 09:32 AM
#36
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 413
that block is my spare motor. The motor in my car right now is the JDM h22a. When i got the JDM H22a it had a bent valve, so i replaced all the valves and all the valve seals and such. Im not saying that your making stuff up, but, ive done a LOT of research, and ive know a lot of people that have had h22's, wether its in a civic, accord, or a prelude, and none of them have had any serious oil burning issues. The ones that did, it was the valve seals, which is a ez fix.
27-Jul-2010, 06:30 PM
#38
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: toronto
Posts: 129
there are two places people on here are instantly going to send you:
i am going to suggest altech performance (they advertise on here) and others will suggest hivelocity (who are also vendors on this site).
both are good.
i am going to suggest altech performance (they advertise on here) and others will suggest hivelocity (who are also vendors on this site).
both are good.
