V2 vs SRI
#1
V2 vs SRI
Sorry for another thread, after a lot of thinking I still can't decide between the Aem V2 or the AEM SRI intake.
V2= $370
SRI= $230
Taxes in.
This is for a 2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe. Would the gains of the V2 be worth the extra $140?
V2= $370
SRI= $230
Taxes in.
This is for a 2005 Honda Civic LX Coupe. Would the gains of the V2 be worth the extra $140?
#2
dont waste your money. you will see maybe 1-4ish hp gain with the sri and maybe 2-5 hp gain from the cai. I liked the increased throttle response from the sri and the sound it made. But it doesnt add really any horsepower what so ever.
put that money toward suspension upgrades. if i were to do it again thats what i would do. That or get a vtec head. really, thats the only real noticable gain you can do other than boost or a swap. Vtec Head swap is almost as much as the v2.
also if you do decide to get a sri, ebay. its the exact same thing as the expensive versions.
put that money toward suspension upgrades. if i were to do it again thats what i would do. That or get a vtec head. really, thats the only real noticable gain you can do other than boost or a swap. Vtec Head swap is almost as much as the v2.
also if you do decide to get a sri, ebay. its the exact same thing as the expensive versions.
#6
Bottom line is, pretty much all intakes are the same (an aluminum tube with a cone filter). Don't be fooled by the V2. It doesn't make any more power than other intakes.
For a d-series, it's really not worth spending that much money on an intake. You won't hardly notice any difference in performance, it will basically just make more noise.
Save your money, buy a cheap used or ebay SRI and be done with it.
Anything over $100 for a tube with a cone filter is too much.
#8
like i said, i wouldnt put any money into an intake on a d17 again unless you want the sound. Other than that you would be much happier with a D17A2 head swap. and its about the same price range as what your looking for a CAI that has very very minimal gains.
#10
actually an intake isn't just an intake.
Pipe diameter, pipe length, how many bends, the angle of the bends, filter material and filter size all have an effect on the power production and shape of the power curve.
Now, would it be worth spending $300 on a "name brand" intake for a d17?
Not in my mind.
I'd prolly just get a 2.5" pipe with either a K&N or AEM dryflow filter that fits your application and call it a day (in the OP's case here). But if you have a n/a beast and you're trying to get every last whp/wtq out of it, messing around with the perameters I've listed above can drastically change the power output and shape of the curve.....i've seen this first hand several times now.
Pipe diameter, pipe length, how many bends, the angle of the bends, filter material and filter size all have an effect on the power production and shape of the power curve.
Now, would it be worth spending $300 on a "name brand" intake for a d17?
Not in my mind.
I'd prolly just get a 2.5" pipe with either a K&N or AEM dryflow filter that fits your application and call it a day (in the OP's case here). But if you have a n/a beast and you're trying to get every last whp/wtq out of it, messing around with the perameters I've listed above can drastically change the power output and shape of the curve.....i've seen this first hand several times now.
#11
actually an intake isn't just an intake.
Pipe diameter, pipe length, how many bends, the angle of the bends, filter material and filter size all have an effect on the power production and shape of the power curve.
Now, would it be worth spending $300 on a "name brand" intake for a d17?
Not in my mind.
I'd prolly just get a 2.5" pipe with either a K&N or AEM dryflow filter that fits your application and call it a day (in the OP's case here). But if you have a n/a beast and you're trying to get every last whp/wtq out of it, messing around with the perameters I've listed above can drastically change the power output and shape of the curve.....i've seen this first hand several times now.
Pipe diameter, pipe length, how many bends, the angle of the bends, filter material and filter size all have an effect on the power production and shape of the power curve.
Now, would it be worth spending $300 on a "name brand" intake for a d17?
Not in my mind.
I'd prolly just get a 2.5" pipe with either a K&N or AEM dryflow filter that fits your application and call it a day (in the OP's case here). But if you have a n/a beast and you're trying to get every last whp/wtq out of it, messing around with the perameters I've listed above can drastically change the power output and shape of the curve.....i've seen this first hand several times now.
however i doubt that anyone would want an NA beast from a d17 its possible, but with the money you would spend you could have swapped a K in or boosted on a nice setup.
whatever you do OP is up to you. its your car spend on it as you wish.
#12
actually an intake isn't just an intake.
Pipe diameter, pipe length, how many bends, the angle of the bends, filter material and filter size all have an effect on the power production and shape of the power curve.
Now, would it be worth spending $300 on a "name brand" intake for a d17?
Not in my mind.
- Exactly. All those different factors you mentioned would have very little and almost un-noticable effect on a stock d. Thats what I meant saying 'an intake is an intake'.
I'd prolly just get a 2.5" pipe with either a K&N or AEM dryflow filter that fits your application and call it a day (in the OP's case here). But if you have a n/a beast and you're trying to get every last whp/wtq out of it, messing around with the perameters I've listed above can drastically change the power output and shape of the curve.....i've seen this first hand several times now.
Pipe diameter, pipe length, how many bends, the angle of the bends, filter material and filter size all have an effect on the power production and shape of the power curve.
Now, would it be worth spending $300 on a "name brand" intake for a d17?
Not in my mind.
- Exactly. All those different factors you mentioned would have very little and almost un-noticable effect on a stock d. Thats what I meant saying 'an intake is an intake'.
I'd prolly just get a 2.5" pipe with either a K&N or AEM dryflow filter that fits your application and call it a day (in the OP's case here). But if you have a n/a beast and you're trying to get every last whp/wtq out of it, messing around with the perameters I've listed above can drastically change the power output and shape of the curve.....i've seen this first hand several times now.
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