wastegate question for turbo heads
#1
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wastegate question for turbo heads
Ok, so my internally gated turbo wastegate STARTS to open at 9 psi and is fully open at 14.5 psi. We all know that's too much for stock internals... so does anyone know a writeup for replacing a wastegate spring?? Or do you recommend going to an external gate?? I'm not too excited about having an external gate cuz it complicates my exhaust piping, but on the other hand I'm not too excited about opening up the wastegate and then later trusting it to do it's job.
#4
#5
Use a HKS EVC IV Silver Edition boost controller to lower boost. Apparently it works with both internal and external wastegates.
As for changing wastegate springs I think there's info on the"homemade turbo" forum.
As for changing wastegate springs I think there's info on the"homemade turbo" forum.
#6
I personally would change to external (cause they work better) but easier i think a boost controller or changing the spring is the way to go and cheaper.
#8
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naw, I already bought a boost controller from turboXS. I can't be bothered to make parts... anything that takes me longer than a day to do ends up taking me years to do. as I understand it though, a boost controller can increase boost, NOT lower it, you know? So fully unrestricted, this thing opens up at 9 psi - 14.5 psi. Only way to lower that is to put a lighter spring in it, but it's not like external ones where you undo some allen bolts and pop in a new spring, this thing is pressed together like a Honda fuel press regulator (for all you guys who've installed B&M FPRs). Cee_mon, yes you can, the arm is adjustable, however I can't see how that would help much... #1 the wastegate would always be slightly open, so you wouln't be able to build boost as quickly, and #2 the wastegate arm would only begin moving at 9 psi still... so even though I could increase travel of the arm by adjusting it, it would still only begin to open at 9 psi, though it would potentially be fully open before 14.5 psi. Still, I need a 3 or 6 psi spring MAX. Anything more is likely to overboost badly. Fawk it, I'm just gonna get the TiAL 38mm bad boy... or if I can find a turbosmart dealer somewhere.
#9
Just so you know...Iam in the process of switching from a turbo xs mbc to a homemade one. On my turbo xs mbc there are 2 little vent holes that cause the boost to spike and fall. I was reading a website where they were saying those extra vents holes are for boost over 15psi.
#10
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i dunno, this is not a base one... it's the HPMBC so it should be very tyte. my buddy used the same one on his B20-T and ran a 13.9 on a burned stock clutch and bald Azenis. he normally runs a home made one, but said this one is way better
#13
What kinda motor r u running? why not just spend that money on more fuel for the car and u would make more power too, with the 14.5 psi
#14
weaksauce turbo
ahahah
w/ a 14b...
i know guys adjust them(the arms) to work for lower boost levels.. search www.honda-tech.com about it.(fi part of course)
ahahah
w/ a 14b...
i know guys adjust them(the arms) to work for lower boost levels.. search www.honda-tech.com about it.(fi part of course)
#15
was bored and did some reading. seems as though lengthening the rod can work to lower the boost however it may create a little more lag.
Another method is completly taking the actuator off, and putting a simple carb return spring holding tension against the wastegate flapper. You may say (what the ****?) but it works probably better then most actuators, in fact we saw an increase of spool time when doing this, the spring keeps the flapper shut until boost pushes the flapper open. I have made a bunch of springs 4-8psi, They hold very strong and do not fluctuate..
and
You can add washer's between the bolts and the wastegate flange so it moves the actuator towards the valve.
This will lower the boost.
www.homemadeturbo.com check what folks have done there
Another method is completly taking the actuator off, and putting a simple carb return spring holding tension against the wastegate flapper. You may say (what the ****?) but it works probably better then most actuators, in fact we saw an increase of spool time when doing this, the spring keeps the flapper shut until boost pushes the flapper open. I have made a bunch of springs 4-8psi, They hold very strong and do not fluctuate..
and
You can add washer's between the bolts and the wastegate flange so it moves the actuator towards the valve.
This will lower the boost.
www.homemadeturbo.com check what folks have done there
#16
id definantly switch to an external gate. I dont like the boost creap happy internal gates too much..
Ive got a tial 35mm that i got kicking around, pm me if you wnat it.
Ive got a tial 35mm that i got kicking around, pm me if you wnat it.
#17
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Originally posted by Chigga1
BUDDY , im waiting for KABOOM!
BUDDY , im waiting for KABOOM!
#18
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thanks all for your useful responses... and to those who posted the useless sh*t.
don't worry about it, I'm not gonna fawk with something that I don't have to fawk with. Instead of ghetto-rigging something, I'm just gonna have to get an external gate. just means even more fabrication Luckily, the flanges are available right from TiAL. I'm also gonna keep the internal gete on and hooked up as a secondary precaution should anything go wrong.
don't worry about it, I'm not gonna fawk with something that I don't have to fawk with. Instead of ghetto-rigging something, I'm just gonna have to get an external gate. just means even more fabrication Luckily, the flanges are available right from TiAL. I'm also gonna keep the internal gete on and hooked up as a secondary precaution should anything go wrong.
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