Washer trick for camber...?
#1
Washer trick for camber...?
I know where to put the washers, but I would like to know how to measure hwo much camber i have and how many washers to use, does n e one know??? I have an eibach prokit if that helps n e one.
#5
http://home.earthlink.net/~civicex95/rearcamber.html
note, do like i did and go to Brafasco, and not home depot, Brafasco has the 10.5 grade(strenght bolts there) the home depot ones will risk snapping (only 3, compared to the 10.5's) huge difference in strength!!. And i was able to get the 40mill bolts there instead of the 45's... the 45's might require extra washers on the outside, cuz the bolt bottems out... depends on your camber...(prokit isnt much adjustment so u need the 40mm bolts)
AND PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE USE A TORQUE WRENCH WITH LOCKTITE on the bolt!!!!!!!!!!!
But hell i wouldnt bother wasteing your time, a prokit wont cause any problems, its actually a perfect performance setup as is without camber correction!!
note, do like i did and go to Brafasco, and not home depot, Brafasco has the 10.5 grade(strenght bolts there) the home depot ones will risk snapping (only 3, compared to the 10.5's) huge difference in strength!!. And i was able to get the 40mill bolts there instead of the 45's... the 45's might require extra washers on the outside, cuz the bolt bottems out... depends on your camber...(prokit isnt much adjustment so u need the 40mm bolts)
AND PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE USE A TORQUE WRENCH WITH LOCKTITE on the bolt!!!!!!!!!!!
But hell i wouldnt bother wasteing your time, a prokit wont cause any problems, its actually a perfect performance setup as is without camber correction!!
#7
i might just have tow on the rears, but it looks liek camber. I don't want to have teh alignment done and then have to correct the camber with teh washer and redo the alignment again.
i'll take some pics and post em for you experts to judge
i'll take some pics and post em for you experts to judge
#11
Originally posted by loudsubz
boost:
do you think brafasco would have bolts similar to the LCA bolts honda uses?
could be worth a try if there cheap
boost:
do you think brafasco would have bolts similar to the LCA bolts honda uses?
could be worth a try if there cheap
Brafasco will have any bolt you want, thats all they do is nuts and bolts. But the problem was, that for me to get trhe high strenght bolts I had to go with a non stainless steel bolt. The stainless bolts were only a grade 3 like home depot. So this means rust on the strong ones... what im gonna do is cover all the threads with locktite, hopeing to keep moisture out of the threads, and then im gonna paint the head of the bolt.
For LCA bolts, i think i would stick to OEM cuz they are strong and they have the zinc coating(i think thats what protects them..) and the rears also have the punch tips, so you can hammer them in without damageing the threads
One way to find out tho, look in the hayns manual for the bolt specs, thread pitch, strenght, lenght.. and give brafasco a call, see if they can get a protected finish in that strenght!
Or i was thinking about buying some of that paste on bolt protection, its sort of like anti seize (i think its zinc in a tube, somone correct me if im wrong)
anyway, if you find out let us know, cuz some OEM bolts are over 8 bucks each
#12
i have pro-kit and the only camber wear i really notice is on my rims.... other than that it's not so bad, especially comparing to people that are seriously dropped... plus with the offset of my rims if i had fixed my camber i might have rubbed in the rear over big bumps and such...
#13
the anti-seize is from permatex. it's great stuff. i use it everywhere possible. just don't use them on threads. u don't
want things to loosen up. brafasco sells great stuff and i dont
see any problems using their high grade bolts for suspensions
over stock.
want things to loosen up. brafasco sells great stuff and i dont
see any problems using their high grade bolts for suspensions
over stock.
#17
toe is when as your looking down on your tires they dont point straight... toe out is when they point out and toe in is when the point in... if you lowered your car and didn't get an alignment then you will have severe camber wear... cause not only are your tires slanted but your also "dragging" them on the pavement cause the aren't pointing straight... not good for ball joints either
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