URGENT! need help with b18b1 install (part 2)
#1
URGENT! need help with b18b1 install (part 2)
ok....i'm pretty clear now that the swap is straight foward.
i just wanna know some minor details...
ok
for the clutch assembly, do i need just the rod and the pedal
or do i need the whole assembly? (ie. the gas, brake and clutch all connected to one unit)
if it is the whole assembly, can someone describe how it looks like and where should i unbolt it?
what connectors should i take off and any other details i should know about?
i just wanna know some minor details...
ok
for the clutch assembly, do i need just the rod and the pedal
or do i need the whole assembly? (ie. the gas, brake and clutch all connected to one unit)
if it is the whole assembly, can someone describe how it looks like and where should i unbolt it?
what connectors should i take off and any other details i should know about?
#2
You will need the whole assembly for an auto to manual conversion...the brake pedal is way smaller on a manual car. It's clear when you get under the dashboard...it's hooked up at the firewall and there are rods poking through for the various assemblies, like the brake booster and the clutch master cylinder. Remember...you will need the hydraulics from the donor car too for the clutch operation, and you will have to bleed it all properly, more than likely having to use a vaccuum bleeding technique. KSR or HappyB16, care to comment?
#3
ok....thats cool...
i will take everything from the donor car then...
it will be the whole assembly all connected together right?
my shop teacher told me that if i disconnect it right....that i don't have to bleed the clutch system
is that true?
i will take everything from the donor car then...
it will be the whole assembly all connected together right?
my shop teacher told me that if i disconnect it right....that i don't have to bleed the clutch system
is that true?
#4
You'll have to bleed everything anyways. The pedal cluster is one peice. The hydraulic system is a bunch of components like the master/slave cylinders, reservoir, hydraulic lines and actuators. As soon as you disconect a line, you have to bleed the system since air is going to enter the line and compress when you try to use the hydraulics. Air is easier to compress than fluid, which results in that mushy feeling of a brake pedal (classsic example).
#6
Well, the way I see it, it's best to take everything that you possible can, since when it comes down to doing the deed, you will find you'll break stuff, stuff won't fit, things will need to be modified and so on...so stripping everything in the front cut right down to bare metal is a good policy, and at the end when you have left over parts, you can sell them to ppl who need them and recoup some of the cost of the swap. That why when I do it I'm buying a complete front cut, and I think I'm gonna try to stuff the Integra dashboard into my 6th gen too. It doesn't really fit, but i'll make it fit.
By the way, where is the donor car...do you have access to it readily, or is it a one time shot...get what you can kinda deal. Cuz if you have it available, tow it to the place where you are doing the swap, so you can use one as a reference, and you can remove parts as needed.
By the way, where is the donor car...do you have access to it readily, or is it a one time shot...get what you can kinda deal. Cuz if you have it available, tow it to the place where you are doing the swap, so you can use one as a reference, and you can remove parts as needed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
civic_integra
Interior - Audio - Security
11
01-Aug-2005 12:53 PM
imported_Silver Rocket
Honda Civic Performance - JDM Discussion
4
17-Jul-2003 04:51 PM
imported_streetXtreme
Honda Civic Performance - JDM Discussion
23
06-Jan-2003 05:31 AM