imported_Moe_Mentum

Recently my brakes have been getting really soft and mushy. The threshold point in which the brakes start to work is becoming lower to the floor. THe brakes still work, but just have to push the pedal further. I don't see any brake fluid on the brake pedal or around BB/MC. The fluid level has gone down a little bit, but I suspect that is just from the pads wearing down. Any suggestions as to do? Should I just get a Fluid flush and bleed the system? Also I noticed before that when I braked in neutral the rpms would go up a by about above idle 200rpms, then when I came to a complete stop the rpms would settle.

Nova_Dust

Bleeding would be a good start.

sugarcane

take off your wheel and take a look @ how much you have left....get a flashlight and check the window on your calipres. If you still have plenty of meat left then i guess the next step would be to bleed.

Would a seized caliper cause a decrease in fluid?

My brakes felt kind of low too...but i knew what my prob was, pads were done, had some crazy uneven wear, there was rust forming on the inner/outter diameter of the rotor....i think the pad only made about 80% contact and the rust kept building. In the end i replaced rotors/pad last friday with the good weather...didn't bother machining cuz I couln't wait especially with this freak weather; now everything feels good again.

It was my first time doing a rotor/pad replacement and I found it easier than changing MTF lol The hardest part for me was taking the rotor off...i thought the offset was messed because the rotor wouldn't come off all the way...turns out there was an abundance of rust, wiggled the **** out of it.

imported_SaYjAiBaO

it's probably the seal in your mc. when the seal in my dad's accord went, we couldn't find leak either. we bled the brakes, changed the pads, checked the calipers, still couldn't find anything. is it just squishy from the first pump or does it get squishier as you keep pumping? if it gets softer as you pump then it's the seal.

imported_Moe_Mentum

^^^^^^

I'll have to double check to see if its squishy on first pump or not. I'd go out and check the pads now buts its freeeeezing! I hate winter... whenever I get a problem I always end up taking it in to fix since its too cold for me to do it myself. Gonna have to pay a fortune just to get a Cluth and Brake flush.

imported_nletourneau1

you probably just need brakes. If the pedal is still hard but lower to the floor than your brakes have worn. If the pedal feels like there is a sponge underneath the pedal when you press it then there is air in the system. There is no point bleeding the brakes until you find out where the air entered the system.

LEITNER

if your car is older your lines may be swollen and collapsed giving it a mushy feel.

imported_Moe_Mentum

On my way to work this morning I noticed the brakes are definetly feeling spongy. I press down and the brakes will engage but if I wanted to by pressing down hard enough I can make the pedal touch the floor almost. My car isn't that old so it's probably not the collapsed lines.

What could be some causes of air being in the system?
Like nletourneau1 said, I don't want to pay to get the brakes bleaded then find out the problem still exists.

LEITNER

well the internet mechanics can also cost you money dude by giving you bad info. go to a shop or take the wheels off and check sh*t out. you will go in for bleeding but they will see everything while its apart and should be able to see a problem. your car is about 7 years old so it could be lines dude, i dont think its air in the system.

imported_nletourneau1

A spongy feel in the brake pedal is caused by air in the system. A collapsed brake hose would cause the wheel with the collapsed hose to either lock up or not work at all, depending on when the hose collapsed. Air can enter a number of ways into the system. Take it to a mechanic you trust to have him or her look at it. You don't want to screw around when it comes to your brakes. Price should not be an option when you life and others are on the line.

imported_Moe_Mentum

Yeah its all good I am taking it to mech soon. I'll post the results but from what I've been told and seen it either needs a flush or MC is gone

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

prolly a leak, either in the master cyl or the calipers/wheel cyls. Gonna need a major brake job, but lucky for you it's easy to do. but yeah, I'd start with a flush and bleed cuz that's the easiest and cheapest thing to do, and it might cure your problem till spring time when it gets a lil warmer

imported_Moe_Mentum

It was the master cylinder after all. Got a new one and had the lines flushed and bled and it was good as new.

imported_My93Civic

Im gonna see if my brakes still suck after my brake change,of it does, i'll look into my master cylinder.

how much did you shell out for a MC, Moe?

imported_Moe_Mentum

It was about $140 for one with a $40 core charge.. so $100 even. If you just need one for a D-Series then Nova_Dust is selling one cheap. I was going to buy it off of him but my MC was slightly bigger then his.

imported_My93Civic

Whats the size for the d-series MC?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

13/16 base models, 15/16 for Si and EX models.

imported_Moe_Mentum

^^^^^^^^ that is correct

imported_My93Civic

Are these interchangeable? So the Si and EX are bigger eh? Would there be a notable difference if I got one made for the EX/Si and slapped it on my DX?

Thanks bb, you are always helpful

imported_My93Civic

Anyone know the size of the bleed nipples? I want to get some tubing but do not know which size to get.