problem with engine swap help!!!
#3
dude that is a big bad bolt, it's torqued down to 140 lbs i believe. You will need a break wrench, and possibly a 6 ft pece of pipe at the end of it. DO NOT use a torque wrench to loosen it, that ;s how you break torque wrenches i speak from experience. It should be that bad i have loosened nuts on my wheels that were tightened at wheels direct, fu$kin morans used the gun and it was around 140 for sure. Just make sure you have a big breakfast and crack that baby off Make sure also that the car is stable so it doesn't move around, that's a lot of pressure you are going to put on it.
#6
breaker bar
the boys are correct, never heard of the torch method. but have experience as i changed both cv joints this year you need a breaker bar that's quite huge i just used a steel pipe that was slightly larger diameter than my socket and you just slide it down onto the socket. 6 ft pipe = lots of torque....bolt goes pop and it is free. you also need a crow bar to keep the axel from turning, wedge it between the bolts from your wheels.
anyways good luck with that
anyways good luck with that
#7
You shouldn't use the crow bar in the wheel studs method cause you'll damage the threads.
Instead.. what you might want to do is if you have steelies... remove the center cap... Keep the car on the ground... That way.. the weight of the car can be used to lock the wheel... Now.. use the breaker bar method... Be careful.. cause I've broken more than a few breaker bars and rachets trying to take off axle nuts.
Instead.. what you might want to do is if you have steelies... remove the center cap... Keep the car on the ground... That way.. the weight of the car can be used to lock the wheel... Now.. use the breaker bar method... Be careful.. cause I've broken more than a few breaker bars and rachets trying to take off axle nuts.
#8
even with the tires on and someone in the car pushing the brakes the amount of torque i was putting on the wheels could not break the bolt. The car would actually start to roll slowly. I had to use the crow bar method nothing else worked...if you position the bar the proper way it is very difficult to damage the lugs.
#9
Originally posted by KS-R
You shouldn't use the crow bar in the wheel studs method cause you'll damage the threads.
Instead.. what you might want to do is if you have steelies... remove the center cap... Keep the car on the ground... That way.. the weight of the car can be used to lock the wheel... Now.. use the breaker bar method... Be careful.. cause I've broken more than a few breaker bars and rachets trying to take off axle nuts.
You shouldn't use the crow bar in the wheel studs method cause you'll damage the threads.
Instead.. what you might want to do is if you have steelies... remove the center cap... Keep the car on the ground... That way.. the weight of the car can be used to lock the wheel... Now.. use the breaker bar method... Be careful.. cause I've broken more than a few breaker bars and rachets trying to take off axle nuts.
#10
I had a hard time too
I had a hard time too.
I broke my trusty 3/4 ratchet sniff sniff. (I had a 6 foot bar on the end of it pulling hard!)
In the end, I used a grinder with a very THIN blade to slice up the nutz, carefully not damaging the axle threads too badly.
Note: These nutz are expensive, I think $14 each.
I broke my trusty 3/4 ratchet sniff sniff. (I had a 6 foot bar on the end of it pulling hard!)
In the end, I used a grinder with a very THIN blade to slice up the nutz, carefully not damaging the axle threads too badly.
Note: These nutz are expensive, I think $14 each.
#11
another way
Or, drive the car to a nearby mechanic and let them loosen them. then drive back carefullly.
this isn't too dangerous, seriously. just avoid any high speed roads.
I would go more than a few km's like this though.
this isn't too dangerous, seriously. just avoid any high speed roads.
I would go more than a few km's like this though.
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