odd noise from rear of car
28-Aug-2003, 03:26 PM
#21
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Originally posted by MY SiR
I gotta agree with bbarbulo on this one. It sounds like bearings to me as well.
Mark
I gotta agree with bbarbulo on this one. It sounds like bearings to me as well.
Mark
...LOL heh
I wouldnt rule out brakes just yet tho, cuz u did say it went away with the brakes applied...
If it were my car Id swing the calipers and blast the whole brake with brake cleaner, wipe down the rotor well, and clean the pads, spinn the rotor and make sure there isnt any warpage while ur down there (even tho ud likely feel that in the peddle) make sure one of your pistons arnt seized or worn...
if all that checks out, it has to be your bearing, or something like a tire rubbing...
if the bearing is ready to fail then the other side wont be far off...
28-Aug-2003, 03:42 PM
#23
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Originally posted by PunkInDrublic
i personally think its brake related... i'm gonna tear the brakes apart tomorrow or saturday and have a closer look at them.... might be time for new pads already
i personally think its brake related... i'm gonna tear the brakes apart tomorrow or saturday and have a closer look at them.... might be time for new pads already
if your pads are going quick, then your rotor surface probably has some abrasion, if this is the case resurface, or new drilled rotors!!
28-Aug-2003, 04:30 PM
#25
NEGATIVE!! When the brake is applied, the load on the bearing shifts, causing the noise to go away or shift in pitch so you don't hear it.
That's why you should NEVER EVER drift using the e-brake - it creates a massive load on the wheel bearing.
That's why you should NEVER EVER drift using the e-brake - it creates a massive load on the wheel bearing.
28-Aug-2003, 04:42 PM
#26
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
NEGATIVE!! When the brake is applied, the load on the bearing shifts, causing the noise to go away or shift in pitch so you don't hear it.
That's why you should NEVER EVER drift using the e-brake - it creates a massive load on the wheel bearing.
NEGATIVE!! When the brake is applied, the load on the bearing shifts, causing the noise to go away or shift in pitch so you don't hear it.
That's why you should NEVER EVER drift using the e-brake - it creates a massive load on the wheel bearing.
This is tru, cuz ebrake slides in the winter, pooch wheel bearings really quickly
so looks like your replaceing a wheel bearing Rick...
hope the 5 gens are replaceable, instead of having to buy a whole hub with it....
28-Aug-2003, 04:49 PM
#27
ZeX you are so right about the e-brake slides:
ppl gotta understand that a car is designed to be used inside a set or reasonable operator parameters, and anything outside those parameters will accelerate wear and tear of the car. I don't care if you buy a porsche or bentley, if you don't use it as appropriate, it'll bust like a Chrysler
Now, some cars fail by design... new Mark 4 Golf/Jetta/New Beetles are perfect examples of failure by design. Also, Neons fail by design. Off the top of my head I can think of 5 areas where Neons commonly fail due to lack of consideration on the part of the engineers.
ppl gotta understand that a car is designed to be used inside a set or reasonable operator parameters, and anything outside those parameters will accelerate wear and tear of the car. I don't care if you buy a porsche or bentley, if you don't use it as appropriate, it'll bust like a Chrysler
Now, some cars fail by design... new Mark 4 Golf/Jetta/New Beetles are perfect examples of failure by design. Also, Neons fail by design. Off the top of my head I can think of 5 areas where Neons commonly fail due to lack of consideration on the part of the engineers.
28-Aug-2003, 05:06 PM
#28
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
ZeX you are so right about the e-brake slides:
ppl gotta understand that a car is designed to be used inside a set or reasonable operator parameters, and anything outside those parameters will accelerate wear and tear of the car. I don't care if you buy a porsche or bentley, if you don't use it as appropriate, it'll bust like a Chrysler Now, some cars fail by design... new Mark 4 Golf/Jetta/New Beetles are perfect examples of failure by design. Also, Neons fail by design. Off the top of my head I can think of 5 areas where Neons commonly fail due to lack of consideration on the part of the engineers.
ZeX you are so right about the e-brake slides:
ppl gotta understand that a car is designed to be used inside a set or reasonable operator parameters, and anything outside those parameters will accelerate wear and tear of the car. I don't care if you buy a porsche or bentley, if you don't use it as appropriate, it'll bust like a Chrysler
Now, some cars fail by design... new Mark 4 Golf/Jetta/New Beetles are perfect examples of failure by design. Also, Neons fail by design. Off the top of my head I can think of 5 areas where Neons commonly fail due to lack of consideration on the part of the engineers.
Wow, it nice to see somone sees the light!!! lol, Where were you while I was trying to convince/arguing with group of friends about the New Golf/Jetta/New Beetles are perfect examples of failure by design...They are problem cars period, no one would agree with me...Not that they are horrible cars or anything but, they just have too many design flaws for me...
As for the Neon, they just suck...rad problems, head gaskets, rust, leaks, worst drivetrain ever... you can take as good of care as you want to those things and they will still ruin your day...
28-Aug-2003, 05:11 PM
#29
My guess is your group of friends, I'm guessing, have Euro backgrounds and they are genetically coded to believe that VW can do no wrong. LOL I can't even convince my dad, and he's got one of those hunks of crap 
plus he's an engineer, so I know he understands what I'm talking about... yet he refuses to acknowledge that it's a pile. However, I've come up with some mods that will eliminate a great deal of problems with it, and the electrical problems I'll tackle as they come up.
LOL I can't even convince my dad, and he's got one of those hunks of crap plus he's an engineer, so I know he understands what I'm talking about... yet he refuses to acknowledge that it's a pile. However, I've come up with some mods that will eliminate a great deal of problems with it, and the electrical problems I'll tackle as they come up.
28-Aug-2003, 05:19 PM
#30
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Yah, its like that VW logo has a hypnotising effect on people... maybe people think of them as baby BMWs or something, therfor perfectly engineered?? I dont know...Ive gotten to the point of just agreeing with people that they are bulletproof... If it was my money going into one, Ide fight with the wife to the death...lol
BTW has your dads sunroof been in for repairs lately?? if it has one...
BTW has your dads sunroof been in for repairs lately?? if it has one...
29-Aug-2003, 01:17 AM
#31
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just for an update the noise is gradually going away... if you have the radio on like 15/50 you can't hear it anymore.... so thats positive...
although nobody really listened to me... i think it was the brakes.... cause the more i brake to more it goes away....
maybe in a few more days it will be gone
although nobody really listened to me... i think it was the brakes.... cause the more i brake to more it goes away....
maybe in a few more days it will be gone
29-Aug-2003, 02:22 AM
#32
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hm..... I get this clicking sound once in a while while accelerating or decelerating.... it makes a "click" sound just one click.... not continous... what can that be?
I'm thinking it's the brakes or the tranny... but I don't know much
about these things..
I'm thinking it's the brakes or the tranny... but I don't know much
about these things..
29-Aug-2003, 08:31 AM
#35
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depends if you do it your self... if a cv joint blows in a civic then your looking at a whole new axle...price range 100-250$ per axel.. pluse installation if you dont do it your self... you need to drain your transaxle fluid too...so another 20$ for new fluid...
29-Aug-2003, 08:59 AM
#37
I disagree about the click - CVs make a constant clicking under full lock and acceleration... the single knock could be a number of things...
failing engine/tranny mount
improperly loaded spring
ball joint
ROY, try to simulate your situation with he front end jacked up, and remove your front susp, then try to reproduce the noise by going through the motions of the susp.
It could also be your brakes releasing if they are seizing up... but not as likely cuz they would have warped a long time ago.
failing engine/tranny mount
improperly loaded spring
ball joint
ROY, try to simulate your situation with he front end jacked up, and remove your front susp, then try to reproduce the noise by going through the motions of the susp.
It could also be your brakes releasing if they are seizing up... but not as likely cuz they would have warped a long time ago.
29-Aug-2003, 09:01 AM
#39
hahaha j/k... they could have been poorly adjusted brakes, you never now... maybe the guy didn't adjust the screw correctly 
BUT!!!! you did say it's more noticable when you are coasting through turns... correct??
Cuz that has nothing to do with brakes...
BUT!!!! you did say it's more noticable when you are coasting through turns... correct??Cuz that has nothing to do with brakes...
29-Aug-2003, 09:28 AM
#40
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true... but when i do brake it goes away completely.... and it is gradually going away... my brakes are poorly adjusted too.... cause when i went to tighten my e brake cable i noticed that one cable was longer then the other.... which means one calipers is more closed compared to the other right??
