Idle Issue
04-Jul-2005, 01:29 AM
#1
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Idle Issue
Sup Folks
I got an idle issue w/ my car.
Vehicle:
1999 Honda Civic EX
D16Y7 motor
190K
Automatic
When car is cold started, it jumps up to 2000 rpms and down to 1500 rpms and goes back up and back down. Does this about 5 - 7 times before dropping back down to 1000 rpms. Then when I'm sitting idle on a spot in 'park' it idles at approx. 1100 rpms and during driving its about 900 - 1000 rpms. I had an issue w/ my Crankshaft fluctation (CFK) sensor (Code 54) but that issue was resolved. When this first started happening, the CEL light did come on and it gave me a code 1 error (Oxygen content) but I decided to reset the ECU to see if that would come back on and it didn't. Couple of days later the CEL light comes back on saying code 71. (Cylinder no. 1 misfire detected) Reset the ECU again and light remains off so far. I haven't touched the idle settings for the car. Normal idle is usually 750 - 800 rpms. I have also replaced spark plugs (NGK), distributor cap/rotor (OEM) and spark plug wires (OEM) a few weeks back. Installed an aftermarket header and SiR cat back system. I did extend the wires for both Oxygen sensors.
So is my issue w/ the main oxygen sensor or is something else messed up? I'm leaning towards the main oxygen sensor located on catalytic converter as the issue but just want to get some second opinions before I do any unnecessary work.
Thanks in advance,
D dot T
I got an idle issue w/ my car.
Vehicle:
1999 Honda Civic EX
D16Y7 motor
190K
Automatic
When car is cold started, it jumps up to 2000 rpms and down to 1500 rpms and goes back up and back down. Does this about 5 - 7 times before dropping back down to 1000 rpms. Then when I'm sitting idle on a spot in 'park' it idles at approx. 1100 rpms and during driving its about 900 - 1000 rpms. I had an issue w/ my Crankshaft fluctation (CFK) sensor (Code 54) but that issue was resolved. When this first started happening, the CEL light did come on and it gave me a code 1 error (Oxygen content) but I decided to reset the ECU to see if that would come back on and it didn't. Couple of days later the CEL light comes back on saying code 71. (Cylinder no. 1 misfire detected) Reset the ECU again and light remains off so far. I haven't touched the idle settings for the car. Normal idle is usually 750 - 800 rpms. I have also replaced spark plugs (NGK), distributor cap/rotor (OEM) and spark plug wires (OEM) a few weeks back. Installed an aftermarket header and SiR cat back system. I did extend the wires for both Oxygen sensors.
So is my issue w/ the main oxygen sensor or is something else messed up? I'm leaning towards the main oxygen sensor located on catalytic converter as the issue but just want to get some second opinions before I do any unnecessary work.
Thanks in advance,
D dot T
05-Jul-2005, 08:50 PM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Milton
Posts: 439
Re: Idle Issue
Originally posted by D dot T
... I did extend the wires for both Oxygen sensors.
So is my issue w/ the main oxygen sensor or is something else messed up? I'm leaning towards the main oxygen sensor located on catalytic converter as the issue but just want to get some second opinions before I do any unnecessary work.
Thanks in advance,
D dot T
... I did extend the wires for both Oxygen sensors.
So is my issue w/ the main oxygen sensor or is something else messed up? I'm leaning towards the main oxygen sensor located on catalytic converter as the issue but just want to get some second opinions before I do any unnecessary work.
Thanks in advance,
D dot T
06-Jul-2005, 11:59 PM
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,506
Re: Re: Idle Issue
Originally posted by sohcnotec
Something to keep in mind: The o2 sensor wires are made of stainless steel to prevent corrosion and resist heat. It also generates such a small voltage .1-.9V. So if you extened them I would check to see that your connections were made REAL GOOD. Any excessive resistance could cause an air/fuel mixture prob. This COULD be a small part of your problem. Just a thought and something for you to look in to.
Something to keep in mind: The o2 sensor wires are made of stainless steel to prevent corrosion and resist heat. It also generates such a small voltage .1-.9V. So if you extened them I would check to see that your connections were made REAL GOOD. Any excessive resistance could cause an air/fuel mixture prob. This COULD be a small part of your problem. Just a thought and something for you to look in to.
09-Jul-2005, 11:35 AM
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UPDATE:
Wired up a different O2 sensor that I had from my old cat and I know this one works. Soldered the wires and made sure everything is good. Issue still persists. I'm going to try replacing spark plug in cylinder no. 1 to see if that helps.
Wired up a different O2 sensor that I had from my old cat and I know this one works. Soldered the wires and made sure everything is good. Issue still persists. I'm going to try replacing spark plug in cylinder no. 1 to see if that helps.
09-Jul-2005, 02:34 PM
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
are you using NGK copper plugs?? if not, then start using them. I think they're called NGK V power
are you using NGK copper plugs?? if not, then start using them. I think they're called NGK V power
09-Jul-2005, 03:30 PM
#8
well it could be an igniter problem too, which means replacing your distributor. I think you can buy the igniter separately, but I checked the price of an igniter for another car once, and it was like.... $700 from the dealer 
09-Jul-2005, 04:32 PM
#9
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
well it could be an igniter problem too, which means replacing your distributor. I think you can buy the igniter separately, but I checked the price of an igniter for another car once, and it was like.... $700 from the dealer
well it could be an igniter problem too, which means replacing your distributor. I think you can buy the igniter separately, but I checked the price of an igniter for another car once, and it was like.... $700 from the dealer
09-Jul-2005, 05:54 PM
#10
no, it would not give a code. there is nothing in the ECU to check the igniter.
yeah there is a testing procedure you can find in the helms manual. i don't have it handy at the moment.
yeah there is a testing procedure you can find in the helms manual. i don't have it handy at the moment.
10-Jul-2005, 12:33 AM
#11
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No Code eh B? Alright I'll look at my manual and see if I can test it.
I changed the cylinder no. 1 spark plug, replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body, and checked for vacuum leaks. Issue still persists but my car is responding much better on the road now.
So its just the start-up idle thats buggin the crap out of me. Will try some more stuff. Read on other forums and they saying its the IAT sensor or something.
I changed the cylinder no. 1 spark plug, replaced my fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body, and checked for vacuum leaks. Issue still persists but my car is responding much better on the road now.
So its just the start-up idle thats buggin the crap out of me. Will try some more stuff. Read on other forums and they saying its the IAT sensor or something.
11-Jul-2005, 11:23 PM
#13
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Ah okay.
No code for misfire so far but I was getting EVAP code 90. Just got everything tighten today @ minute muffler. I'm really thinking its the cat that I have. Its a used SiR cat but how can one tell if its still working or not?
No code for misfire so far but I was getting EVAP code 90. Just got everything tighten today @ minute muffler. I'm really thinking its the cat that I have. Its a used SiR cat but how can one tell if its still working or not?
12-Jul-2005, 10:56 AM
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Originally posted by imported2nv
lets replace that crank angle sensor it could have gotten screwed up while it was shorting out.
and to test a cat you need a laser thermo gun. and even that makes it hard to tell.
lets replace that crank angle sensor it could have gotten screwed up while it was shorting out.
and to test a cat you need a laser thermo gun. and even that makes it hard to tell.
21-Jul-2005, 07:37 PM
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UPDATE: July 21, 2005
Yesterday I went to RT and turns out my distributor is bad. Ignition temperature was 24 Degrees which its suppose to be 12 Degrees. Replaced the distributor and no more idle jumping around problem. Now another problem that remains is the car bogging down within the first minute of driving. Doesn't matter if its a cold/warm start, 1st minute I press the gas it bogs right down and then a moment into it finally jumps up and decides to drive. Thinking possibly my injectors are really dirty. Did some seafoaming today and will see how that goes.
Yesterday I went to RT and turns out my distributor is bad. Ignition temperature was 24 Degrees which its suppose to be 12 Degrees. Replaced the distributor and no more idle jumping around problem.
Now another problem that remains is the car bogging down within the first minute of driving. Doesn't matter if its a cold/warm start, 1st minute I press the gas it bogs right down and then a moment into it finally jumps up and decides to drive. Thinking possibly my injectors are really dirty. Did some seafoaming today and will see how that goes.
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