How to wire this up
07-Jul-2003, 09:55 PM
#1
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How to wire this up
Ractive EL carbon fiber blue Racing Gauge (water "engine" temp)
product #G10180
description of wires:
2 wires comming out with a plug attached that connects to a transformer, transformer then goes to ground and 12v.
then 3 wires labeled a, b, and c. these plugs are Black, Green and red. I have already estabilished that the red is 12v ignition wire, the black is a ground, and the green is to go to a sensor of some kind that dectects heat..?
the instructions on this item are absolute ****, i need help wiring this biatch up..
any suggestions?
product #G10180
description of wires:
2 wires comming out with a plug attached that connects to a transformer, transformer then goes to ground and 12v.
then 3 wires labeled a, b, and c. these plugs are Black, Green and red. I have already estabilished that the red is 12v ignition wire, the black is a ground, and the green is to go to a sensor of some kind that dectects heat..?
the instructions on this item are absolute ****, i need help wiring this biatch up..
any suggestions?
07-Jul-2003, 11:23 PM
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 9,255
nope, you might have to get a seperate sensor.....when I tried to connect the one on Marvin's car to the stock sensor, the factory temp gauge went all goofy. He had to get a seperate sensor for the aftermarket temp gauge.
The 2 wires on the plug that goes to the transformer, is for the illumination.
The red is 12v.
The black is ground.
The green is to go to the sensor.
In the package, there should be some info on the sensor number you have to get.
It should of come with it.....mine did. If it didn't, you'll have to go buy one. (available at most car part stores)
It should look like this.
Find a blocked hole on the engine that when opened would alow the coolant to leak out. put the plug into the hole....wire th4e green to the back if it.
That's it.
The 2 wires on the plug that goes to the transformer, is for the illumination.
The red is 12v.
The black is ground.
The green is to go to the sensor.
In the package, there should be some info on the sensor number you have to get.
It should of come with it.....mine did. If it didn't, you'll have to go buy one. (available at most car part stores)
It should look like this.
Find a blocked hole on the engine that when opened would alow the coolant to leak out. put the plug into the hole....wire th4e green to the back if it.
That's it.
08-Jul-2003, 02:50 AM
#4
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Location: So Far ahead you can only see tail lights
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it did come with that, but im not sure how to do what you just said.. can you pm me with your location maybe you could help me put it in.. thanks for your help man.
08-Jul-2003, 03:18 AM
#5
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I think it's more detailed then finding a hole where coolant flows and putting the sensor in there.
You either put the sensor in the top part of the hose where the coolant runs into the rad or the one at the bottom. Some people have told me both ways but mines in the top rad hose.
The reason for this is that the sensor detects the coolant temp before it enters the rad to get cooled so you know what the temp is. Also you'd need to get a custom "bracket to mount the sensor in. Something like this
or this
I have something similar to the 2nd one but custom made.
You either put the sensor in the top part of the hose where the coolant runs into the rad or the one at the bottom. Some people have told me both ways but mines in the top rad hose.
The reason for this is that the sensor detects the coolant temp before it enters the rad to get cooled so you know what the temp is. Also you'd need to get a custom "bracket to mount the sensor in. Something like this
or this
I have something similar to the 2nd one but custom made.
08-Jul-2003, 04:14 AM
#6
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Location: Toronto
Posts: 9,255
I beg to differ Slvr-Bullet..........the problem with that is.....if the thermostat gets stuck in the closed position, the coolant won't flow past the sensor....threfore giving you a false reading. You should always put it somewhere on/in the block of the motor, so that if it does get stuck closed, the sensor will still pick up a proper reading from the slowly over heating engine. (Just like the factory one is placed)
Those pipes are more for convenience and for "show".
Also, if the system has air in it, guess where it usually goes? Right, to the highest part of the engine....ie....upper rad hose. If the thomostat gets stuck closed, and there is air traped in the upper rad hose, then the same thing will happen....false reading.
Nope, it's about as simple as that. As long as it's on the block of the engine, then that's the BEST place to put it.
On my old car (not a civic), I had the sensor placed in the engine block, just before it left the engine through the thermostat. On my old car, there was already a threaded plug with a square tap in it. (Mechanic never had to remove one before, and had to buy the tool from the Snap On truck.
)
Once it was in, it was a simple matter of running one wire to the gauge. It also didn't take as long for the sensor to warm up and give me a reading. Heat rises.
Another reason the rad hose is a bad idea, it that it can be easily exposed to the outside elements. Next time it rains, go for a drive on the highway. You will see that the hoses will have a light "dressing" of water from where it sneaked in between the hood and the bumper, or through the front grill itself. The hose will be cooler than it would usually be....which in turn, would give a false....well, you know the rest.
Those pipes are more for convenience and for "show".
Also, if the system has air in it, guess where it usually goes? Right, to the highest part of the engine....ie....upper rad hose. If the thomostat gets stuck closed, and there is air traped in the upper rad hose, then the same thing will happen....false reading.
I think it's more detailed then finding a hole where coolant flows and putting the sensor in there.
On my old car (not a civic), I had the sensor placed in the engine block, just before it left the engine through the thermostat. On my old car, there was already a threaded plug with a square tap in it. (Mechanic never had to remove one before, and had to buy the tool from the Snap On truck.
)Once it was in, it was a simple matter of running one wire to the gauge. It also didn't take as long for the sensor to warm up and give me a reading. Heat rises.
Another reason the rad hose is a bad idea, it that it can be easily exposed to the outside elements. Next time it rains, go for a drive on the highway. You will see that the hoses will have a light "dressing" of water from where it sneaked in between the hood and the bumper, or through the front grill itself. The hose will be cooler than it would usually be....which in turn, would give a false....well, you know the rest.
<--- me
08-Jul-2003, 11:55 AM
#9
Your brain hangs out with 40 year old women 
LOL
Yes, it makes sense, but good luck finding a hole that taps into the water jacket, and is available... if anything, I'd tap the thermostat housing
LOLYes, it makes sense, but good luck finding a hole that taps into the water jacket, and is available... if anything, I'd tap the thermostat housing
08-Jul-2003, 12:21 PM
#10
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 9,255
As long as you put it on the engine side, I don't see a problem doing it that way. The thing is, does he have enough room on HIS car to put it there? Clearance might be an issue.
Anyways, gotta go....talk to everyone later. See ya B.
Anyways, gotta go....talk to everyone later. See ya B.
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