Middlemiss

iTrader: (2)

Pls help me figure this out..

Ok Rad fan works fine kick on when rad temp is climbing..

The car..

92 si hatch w/195,000 k - almost ready for timing belt and new water pump.
Original rad..

My guess: is that i need a new rad - it seems to be cooling poorly after spirited drives.. its been gradually getting worse..
I can hear the fan so i know its running ..

I havent overheated it, its just running a little more then 1/2 way on the temp guage.. and i turn the heat on to disapate the heat in the engine.

I had this similar problem with my old ef si hatch.. so i figure its the same deal.

What do you guys think?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

could be. Also check the water pump (on drivers side of the engine above and to the right of where the crank pulley is) to see if there is any coolant leaking, also look on the ground after your cars been sitting overnight. Also check your coolant levels on a daily basis to see if it is going down.

Middlemiss

iTrader: (2)

Ive been checking all my levels.. its all good. No sweet smell of coolent.. I was figuring since most of the cooling is done by the bottom of the rad.. it just isnt able to keep up anymore..

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

or maybe your water pump isn't up to par. This would be a good time to change the water pump and timing belt anyways, i can help ya i just did my g/fs on her 95 cx and i am in hamilton. You don't even need any air tools, i did it using only hand tools....which isn't true b/c i tried to take off the crank pulley bolt with my 1/2" electric impact gun....but no dice. So i didn't even really USE it.
But my point is change the water pump do the t/b while your at it, if it doesn't solve the problem at least you just did some necessary maintainance. You can get a t/b and w/p from a place here for like $100....A&A discount parts if you care. It seems cheaper to replace the w/p first and it needs to be done.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

are the fins of the rad all bent and stuff? Does it look like the rad leaks anywhere?

imported_Cablerat

You sure the thermostat is openning up?

Feel the return coolant line.. should be very hot.

You may just need a coolant flush and fill.

If coolant is good and flow is fine then check the rad.. as rads rott away they become pretty much useless.. The fins MAY look fine, but touch them with your finger.. Mine looked fine but once i rubbed my finger down, the fins just crumbled away.

90% of the wear is on the rad on fan side.

Middlemiss

iTrader: (2)

Im gonna scope it out tonight.. I find that it doesnt heat up fast but if i drive it hard or for a long period of time it doesnt cool down like it used to.

Ill remove the rad and check it out.. ill post some pics up.

Zeeman - thanks for the offer.. im gonna replace the waterpump once i do the timing belt (soon) is it better to get oem honda stuff? or what do you guys recommend?

imported_trackhack

OEM all the way as far as TB and waterpump are concerned.

imported_Torrey

you can pick up cheap rads at Toyko Auto Parts. I got a JDM GSR dual core with fans for $90.

Flush your system and change your waterpump & thermostat and you'll be fine.

LEITNER

thats the ticket.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i used a honda w/p when i did mine, but my g/f didn't want to pay that much for a w/p so she got a new one from A&A for like $56.

Middlemiss

iTrader: (2)

Now the return line is the lower line correct? Cause its cold.. so im thinking thermostat...

Is the thermostat located at the back side of the engine, where the lower line connects?

Thanks

Joe

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

yep thats where it is

Cynikal.Mindset

u might have air in the system aswell that could cause the lower rad hose to be cold cuz there is an air lock in the line and the water isnt circulating around...that was one of my problems

Middlemiss

iTrader: (2)

SO anyways.. I replaced both the rad (mine was original and ****ty) and thermostat and still the same thing.. I would have to say my water pump is shot.. there is no leaking but my temp rises and the fan runs.. but doesnt cool too well..

Does thta make sense?

Cynikal.Mindset

did u bleed the system for air bubbles? an airlock at the waterpump or anywhere in the system will cause these symptoms

Middlemiss

iTrader: (2)

Yes.. i let it heat up real good then opened the bleeder and coolent came out.. is there a better procedure?

Thanks

imported_Cablerat

that's pretty much how you bleed.
so your return line is not hot?

How much mileage? and has the water pump ever been replaced?

imported_94EG6HB

HG...

:P

Middlemiss

iTrader: (2)

Return line seems to be getting hot now..

Car has 195,000k, im assuming the water pump was changed around 100,000

Car runs great, tons of power, doesnt burn a drop of oil.

I dont think its the head gasket..