scott newman

I have a 2k sir and I am getting about 7-10k on the rotors before they overheat and warp. I want to know what I should be looking for for some good front rotors that wont overheat. any suggestions would be appreciated thx

imported_BoOsTd

drilled rotors are less prone ot overheating, but they are still prone to warpage... 7-10 theres something wrong either your calipers or driving style...

I got 150,000km on my factory rotors !!!! and i didnt take them off because they were warped, but rather for an upgrade.


OEM rotors just dont warp after 2 oil changes, thats a break in period for most...

KAMUFI

Don't wash your car after you drive it, cold water on hot brake rotors warps a rotor good

Don't brake heavily before you know you are gonna reach you destination. espcially in cold weather and i have taken measurements for all that mioght oppose this, the hot brake pad and caliper covering that portion of the disk cools slower oppose to the exposed part of the rotor. another way to warp a rotor, expect rapid warpage from cheap rotors that are custom crossdrilled . Go with slots if your gonna do that.

imported_gatherer

good points there...^^^

however I'd recommend buying rotors that are not the cheap replacement parts...(basically no name replacement crap... use Honda factory rotors or use brembo rotors.... only ones I trust

DumbasSi

You are warping brakes every 10k's? WOW! I have the same questions you have because I need new brakes also.

Like BoOsTd, I'm just over 140k's and I need new pads and rotors. I'm going to go with OEM pads/rotors unless I can find Brembo blanks for a decent price. Does anyone know where Brembo's are sold for a good price? Affiliates? What would be a good street pad besides OEM? I've heard Hawk and Axxis. Where can they be purchased?

imported_cet_civic

Hey Mike,

I'm running Raybestos Rotors, and KVR (carbon metallic) pads on all corners, I noticed a huge increase in stopping power. I paid just over $450 for everything...got them from Rick & Dale @ RT Motorsports.

If your going to be changing them over, I'd recommend upgrading to SS braided lines. Its worth the investment

If you want Hawk, RT can get them for you.

imported_cet_civic

oh that price is just the parts...

imported_jason_alt

false.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

rotors are drilled because in old skool compounds, the solid pad material would instantly vaporise into gas at high temps, so the pad would ride on this cushion of hot gas instead of on the rotor - and you would have NO brakes at all. this is different from brake fade, brake fade happens when the fluid boils. x-drilling was a way to give the hot gas someplace to go... but that placed stress risers on the rotor face, which meant it would begin to crack from heating and cooling (thermal stressing). That's where slots were invented. Either way... they don't help the rotor from holding more heat, dissipating more heat, or stopping better.

sounds to me like your calipers are seized up or something... either that or your driving habits are downright violent.

imported_JookSingKid

you're definately doing something wrong, or else you have the crappiest rotors i have ever heard of.

What brand are you using?
Who is installing your brakes?

BOND007

I think scott hasx been spending to much time on his sport bike and his treating the little SIR the same way

redline_vtec

Canadian Tire has a bran called Eurorotor. They are brembo blanks. Look in the inside of the rotor and there should be a brembo stamp on them. They're about $65 a rotor

imported_BoOsTd

why does Wilwood still drill all of their rotors

scott newman

My calipers are fine, and my rotors are factory honda parts. Everyone is trying to tell me that there is somthing wrong. Bbarbulo is exactly right, my driving habbits are violent. I was at the track watching touring cars and they have alomst a two peice rotor, dunno what they are called but the driver said that they dont warp very easy. To give you a little insight, the rotors are black from heat so I need somthing to compensate for the temp.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

they don't - just look at mine. the x-drilling is an option that ricers put onto their wilwoods so they can draw more attention

scott newman, if heat is such a problem, you need to remove the heat shields or simply spring for bigger brakes like stoptech, KVR, Wilwood, Brembo, Bear, SSBC, Endless, Spoon or something similar. God knows there is no shortage of brake packages for the Civic. You are using your car outside of the intended design, and you'll have to pay for it. If you drive it like a SCCA car, then expect to service it like one, and expect it to be junk in a couple of years. I feel bad for whoever buys this car after you.

imported_gatherer

what pads do you use? could be the issue there... if the pads arn't designed for the driving style the extra heat could warp rotors...anyways I'd love to see this "violent" driving habits....I mean I'm rough on my car when autocrossing but I don't warp rotors....

scott newman

Firts of all I dont autocross and Im not gonna sound like I know what the car goes through because I have never done it all I know is that it is in a parking lot or somthing and you go around cones. If that is not the proper interpretaion of autocross, then I apologize. As for driving habbits, ever been on the road course at shannonville? 170 off the back straight into a top of third gear corner, to get the lap times down, you have to be hard on the brakes. I dont think that auto cross gets up over 200kph. I wont say how fast I drive the car because Ppl on this board get pretty upset and accuse me of going to kill someone and stuff, I just drive out of the intended design of the car as someone said. And for him anyone who buys my car will be smiling from ear to ear when they drive it. Making an uninformed opinon is ok I guess, everyone is entitled to that but please dont dog my car because I drive it, you have absoluty no idea how it is maintained. To give you an idea, there are 80k on it and the third t belt and waterpump. I do drive it hard, and fully understand that you have to pay for it and maintain the car I do. So after all of that any suggestions for a fix? Bbarbuo had mentinoned some, which one will solve my problem??

imported_jason_alt

Try to stay off the brakes when at a standstill. Let the car roll a bit so the heat doesn't concentrate on one area of the rotor. Next, try a high temp aggressive brake pad with some brembos or eurorotors. I doubt it, but If you feel you're boiling the fluid, you can bleed the lines if it gives you peace of mind.

imported_gatherer

ok First please don't read my comments as harsh ... actually I truly am interested just to see if in fact it is driving style (only way I can tell is to ride along)

anyways now that you mention shanonville it all sort of makes sense... I've only ever driven on the full course once but I do know the speeds your talking about (and I think I warpped my rear drums doing it) and I do know how hard it is on brakes....

anyways with that said after you come off a few hot laps at shannonville what is your cool down procedure afterwards? this is very very important

punkindrublic

man i'm running euro rotor crap from CT... i think $40 a rotor... the fronts have never been removed in over 2 years and the rears were machined once cause i let the pads get way to low and had gouges