EK Hatch GSR swap done... few concerns
#22
Originally posted by mikepasini
if i swapped a b16 head on my gsr would what kinda of power would i be putting to the wheels?
if i swapped a b16 head on my gsr would what kinda of power would i be putting to the wheels?
it wont be that much of a difference. Just get some headwork on your c1 instead of buying another head
#24
soooo, weird start today... it almost barely started...
so, i turn the key and it starts to crank... then like halfway through the first crank it stops and it almost sounds like it prematurely starts... then it idles sooo low at like 200rpm barely staying alive... i touched the gas lightly and it went up to like 1200rpm and i let off and it dropped ight back down... then after like 20-30 seconds it slowly climbed up to like 1000, then dropped back to like 700-800 which it is already at...
it was warm already too as i just got in from work and then went out like 40 mins laater to get something from the store...
i stopped at the store, went in for like 15 mins and it did the same thing again, just not as long this time... maybe 15 seconds or something... haven't checked it again, but i am sure it will be the same.
so, i turn the key and it starts to crank... then like halfway through the first crank it stops and it almost sounds like it prematurely starts... then it idles sooo low at like 200rpm barely staying alive... i touched the gas lightly and it went up to like 1200rpm and i let off and it dropped ight back down... then after like 20-30 seconds it slowly climbed up to like 1000, then dropped back to like 700-800 which it is already at...
it was warm already too as i just got in from work and then went out like 40 mins laater to get something from the store...
i stopped at the store, went in for like 15 mins and it did the same thing again, just not as long this time... maybe 15 seconds or something... haven't checked it again, but i am sure it will be the same.
#29
Originally posted by Team Rukus
like i said earlier check vacum lines and gasket.
like i said earlier check vacum lines and gasket.
IMO, you should just take the car back to the people who swap it for you... tell them the problem, let them diagnose it... let them rev the **** out of your ride to test out the functionality of everything... they might need your car overnight as they want a cold start to try it out... and then they need to check hose and any leaks... they probably will try to run codes and run all sorts of leak test haha...
we can't help you if you're not looking into the things after the "great" ones had already made suggestions like "check any vacuum leaks" but if you're busy, the best thing is let the swapper deal with it...
#32
Originally posted by t_dot_SiR
he's too busy to check anything perhaps?
IMO, you should just take the car back to the people who swap it for you... tell them the problem, let them diagnose it... let them rev the **** out of your ride to test out the functionality of everything... they might need your car overnight as they want a cold start to try it out... and then they need to check hose and any leaks... they probably will try to run codes and run all sorts of leak test haha...
we can't help you if you're not looking into the things after the "great" ones had already made suggestions like "check any vacuum leaks" but if you're busy, the best thing is let the swapper deal with it...
he's too busy to check anything perhaps?
IMO, you should just take the car back to the people who swap it for you... tell them the problem, let them diagnose it... let them rev the **** out of your ride to test out the functionality of everything... they might need your car overnight as they want a cold start to try it out... and then they need to check hose and any leaks... they probably will try to run codes and run all sorts of leak test haha...
we can't help you if you're not looking into the things after the "great" ones had already made suggestions like "check any vacuum leaks" but if you're busy, the best thing is let the swapper deal with it...
its not that i am too busy, you guys just don't give me enough time to reply... hahaha... well, i don't know how to check vacuum leaks or anything... today, it seemed ok... but its taking a bit longer to start than most other cars i've been in... and how can i fix that idle thing ("the fast idle") that u guys were talking about cause it does stop reving up and down after it gets warm... is that damaging to the engine to have it like that?
#33
Originally posted by goose****
if there no engine light, there problem a vacum leak!!!!
if there no engine light, there problem a vacum leak!!!!
#34
run the codes if the engine light did came on before...
my CEL didn't came on, but scott is looking at my throttle cable this weekend because i had some odd revving too, but nothing too crazy than yours
mike, i really suggest you taking the car to whoever swapped the motor for you, because suggestions/opinions are just based on what you described, only the person who did the swap can have the clear idea of what's going on, right?
my CEL didn't came on, but scott is looking at my throttle cable this weekend because i had some odd revving too, but nothing too crazy than yours
mike, i really suggest you taking the car to whoever swapped the motor for you, because suggestions/opinions are just based on what you described, only the person who did the swap can have the clear idea of what's going on, right?
#36
Originally posted by goose****
come by or call me i';ll cheack for codes and leaks!!!!...i did the swap if it matters to anyone!!!
come by or call me i';ll cheack for codes and leaks!!!!...i did the swap if it matters to anyone!!!
haha... if it was done by you, i'm pretty sure none of us would have any doubt in the swap hahaha
i know you only pick up the top quality motors to install =)