EK with B18c1... b20 bottom end?
is it as simple as that? bolting on a b20 bottom end on my motor to get a b20 vtec? i know there is lots out there, but i have just a b18c1 set-up now and have been hearing more and more about the cost effictiveness and power potential... what could i be making hp/tq wise with a direct switch...
|
I don't think its very cost effective if you already have a full gsr motor
|
Originally posted by RDub99 I don't think its very cost effective if you already have a full gsr motor |
why dont you research before you post.
|
Originally posted by chris_si98 why dont you research before you post. Why don't you research before you buy an entire motor and install it. |
i believe you need drill oil lines or some crap like that.
|
Its the same as doing an ls/vtec, you need to get an oil line for the vtec.
|
yes, let me pull out the automotive encyclopedia set and do some research before asking every questions... i am looking for opinions... not facts... if i were looking for facts, then this would not be a forum, now would it?
|
sorry for the double post... but thanks for the input from those who chose to give it.
|
Originally posted by mikepasini yes, let me pull out the automotive encyclopedia set and do some research before asking every questions... i am looking for opinions... not facts... if i were looking for facts, then this would not be a forum, now would it? uhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...wha? |
can you guys tell me how to put a b18c1 head on my d16y7?? Thanks
|
Originally posted by kwikb16a2 can you guys tell me how to put a b18c1 head on my d16y7?? Thanks |
theres lots of info on b20vtecs on here.
plain and simple....if you wanna stay n/a displacement owns. B20vtecs need different pistons IMO, but there isn't an oem piston that you can use to raise the compression like there is with a lsvtec. But there are 84mm high(er) compression cast pistons out there so you don't have to buy forged, (forged are good but $$$) The Golden Eagle vtec conversion kits are nice, worth the money IMO. And ARP head studs and rod bolts are a really good idea. Along with balancing of the rotating assembly and a vtec oil/water pump....especially if high rpms are in store. As for just tossin in a b20 bottom end, its not that simple, unfortunately. |
Originally posted by Spiderman Better yet. Why don't you research before you buy an entire motor and install it. |
Originally posted by chris_si98 is that comment directed to me adam? or the non-searcher? :wink: |
or instead of spending $$ on upgrades save it for your next problem.
|
Originally posted by zeeman theres lots of info on b20vtecs on here. plain and simple....if you wanna stay n/a displacement owns. B20vtecs need different pistons IMO, but there isn't an oem piston that you can use to raise the compression like there is with a lsvtec. But there are 84mm high(er) compression cast pistons out there so you don't have to buy forged, (forged are good but $$$) The Golden Eagle vtec conversion kits are nice, worth the money IMO. And ARP head studs and rod bolts are a really good idea. Along with balancing of the rotating assembly and a vtec oil/water pump....especially if high rpms are in store. As for just tossin in a b20 bottom end, its not that simple, unfortunately. thanks man, my question is definitely answered as i really would like a high-revving motor and i don't think i will be able to get that out of a b20... thanks everyone! |
IMO don't do it.... too many possible problems with hybrid motors
|
the problem isn't with hybrid engines, its with the fact that they're built for high performance. I've seen plenty of ls/b20vtecs that run as good and last as long as any b16 or gsr/itr. Its when you skimp on things like not using ARP rod bolts/head studs or not using vtec oil/water pumps and then rev to 8500 rpms when you run into problems.
Engines (all not just lsvtec) are only as good as you build them. If you wanna just slap a vtec head on a ls/b20 bottom end, don't expect much. But if you wanna build it right and get it tuned good you can expect 250+whp and 160+ft/lbs. |
Originally posted by wajih1 Its the same as doing an ls/vtec, you need to get an oil line for the vtec. Similar in concept, but there are a few subtle differences between the B20 and B18's than NEED to be addressed to have a successsful running motor - such as the lack of a oil seperator and PCV on the back of B20 block. Other weak point on the B20 (other than the cylinder walls) is the rod bots - that should be addressed if you're planning on reving the motor higher than the stock redline. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:51 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands