EK with B18c1... b20 bottom end?
#1
EK with B18c1... b20 bottom end?
is it as simple as that? bolting on a b20 bottom end on my motor to get a b20 vtec? i know there is lots out there, but i have just a b18c1 set-up now and have been hearing more and more about the cost effictiveness and power potential... what could i be making hp/tq wise with a direct switch...
#8
yes, let me pull out the automotive encyclopedia set and do some research before asking every questions... i am looking for opinions... not facts... if i were looking for facts, then this would not be a forum, now would it?
#10
Originally posted by mikepasini
yes, let me pull out the automotive encyclopedia set and do some research before asking every questions... i am looking for opinions... not facts... if i were looking for facts, then this would not be a forum, now would it?
yes, let me pull out the automotive encyclopedia set and do some research before asking every questions... i am looking for opinions... not facts... if i were looking for facts, then this would not be a forum, now would it?
uhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...wha?
#13
theres lots of info on b20vtecs on here.
plain and simple....if you wanna stay n/a displacement owns.
B20vtecs need different pistons IMO, but there isn't an oem piston that you can use to raise the compression like there is with a lsvtec. But there are 84mm high(er) compression cast pistons out there so you don't have to buy forged, (forged are good but $$$)
The Golden Eagle vtec conversion kits are nice, worth the money IMO. And ARP head studs and rod bolts are a really good idea. Along with balancing of the rotating assembly and a vtec oil/water pump....especially if high rpms are in store.
As for just tossin in a b20 bottom end, its not that simple, unfortunately.
plain and simple....if you wanna stay n/a displacement owns.
B20vtecs need different pistons IMO, but there isn't an oem piston that you can use to raise the compression like there is with a lsvtec. But there are 84mm high(er) compression cast pistons out there so you don't have to buy forged, (forged are good but $$$)
The Golden Eagle vtec conversion kits are nice, worth the money IMO. And ARP head studs and rod bolts are a really good idea. Along with balancing of the rotating assembly and a vtec oil/water pump....especially if high rpms are in store.
As for just tossin in a b20 bottom end, its not that simple, unfortunately.
#17
Originally posted by zeeman
theres lots of info on b20vtecs on here.
plain and simple....if you wanna stay n/a displacement owns.
B20vtecs need different pistons IMO, but there isn't an oem piston that you can use to raise the compression like there is with a lsvtec. But there are 84mm high(er) compression cast pistons out there so you don't have to buy forged, (forged are good but $$$)
The Golden Eagle vtec conversion kits are nice, worth the money IMO. And ARP head studs and rod bolts are a really good idea. Along with balancing of the rotating assembly and a vtec oil/water pump....especially if high rpms are in store.
As for just tossin in a b20 bottom end, its not that simple, unfortunately.
theres lots of info on b20vtecs on here.
plain and simple....if you wanna stay n/a displacement owns.
B20vtecs need different pistons IMO, but there isn't an oem piston that you can use to raise the compression like there is with a lsvtec. But there are 84mm high(er) compression cast pistons out there so you don't have to buy forged, (forged are good but $$$)
The Golden Eagle vtec conversion kits are nice, worth the money IMO. And ARP head studs and rod bolts are a really good idea. Along with balancing of the rotating assembly and a vtec oil/water pump....especially if high rpms are in store.
As for just tossin in a b20 bottom end, its not that simple, unfortunately.
thanks man, my question is definitely answered as i really would like a high-revving motor and i don't think i will be able to get that out of a b20... thanks everyone!
#19
the problem isn't with hybrid engines, its with the fact that they're built for high performance. I've seen plenty of ls/b20vtecs that run as good and last as long as any b16 or gsr/itr. Its when you skimp on things like not using ARP rod bolts/head studs or not using vtec oil/water pumps and then rev to 8500 rpms when you run into problems.
Engines (all not just lsvtec) are only as good as you build them. If you wanna just slap a vtec head on a ls/b20 bottom end, don't expect much. But if you wanna build it right and get it tuned good you can expect 250+whp and 160+ft/lbs.
Engines (all not just lsvtec) are only as good as you build them. If you wanna just slap a vtec head on a ls/b20 bottom end, don't expect much. But if you wanna build it right and get it tuned good you can expect 250+whp and 160+ft/lbs.
#20
Originally posted by wajih1
Its the same as doing an ls/vtec, you need to get an oil line for the vtec.
Its the same as doing an ls/vtec, you need to get an oil line for the vtec.
Similar in concept, but there are a few subtle differences between the B20 and B18's than NEED to be addressed to have a successsful running motor - such as the lack of a oil seperator and PCV on the back of B20 block.
Other weak point on the B20 (other than the cylinder walls) is the rod bots - that should be addressed if you're planning on reving the motor higher than the stock redline.