Do i need new pads?
#1
Do i need new pads?
Well,
When i first start my car in the morning, obviously its a lot louder because the car is cold, np. It warms up, i drive.. but the breaks seem to slide alot, when i say slide i mean excessive break traveling.
So im always stopping way after the stop sign, which could be problems, lol. Do i need new break pads?
Also, I notice when say i am behind someone, and i begin to go slowly, then break really slowly, the car wobbles until i come to a complete stop. Its weird, and annoying... Feels like im sitting on a vibrator with wheels :P.
Car: 1996 Honda Civic EX
Engine: Stock with some bolt on's.
When i first start my car in the morning, obviously its a lot louder because the car is cold, np. It warms up, i drive.. but the breaks seem to slide alot, when i say slide i mean excessive break traveling.
So im always stopping way after the stop sign, which could be problems, lol. Do i need new break pads?
Also, I notice when say i am behind someone, and i begin to go slowly, then break really slowly, the car wobbles until i come to a complete stop. Its weird, and annoying... Feels like im sitting on a vibrator with wheels :P.
Car: 1996 Honda Civic EX
Engine: Stock with some bolt on's.
#4
Originally posted by BoOsTd
glazed pads, glazed and warped rotors, possibly thin pads would be my diagnosis for an internet description. Do any hard hot brakeing lately?
Its impossable to say forsure without a visual inspection
glazed pads, glazed and warped rotors, possibly thin pads would be my diagnosis for an internet description. Do any hard hot brakeing lately?
Its impossable to say forsure without a visual inspection
#7
Originally posted by shlammed
It doesn't take much to jack the car up and look through the hole in your caliper to see if the pads are thin or not.
It doesn't take much to jack the car up and look through the hole in your caliper to see if the pads are thin or not.
#11
your rotors are warped, your pads glazed, and your lines are filled with bubbles.
the solution, go to Parkway honda, grab a pair of rotors, set of pads, and fresh brake fluid. From walmart get permatex antiseize, permatex disk brake quiet, and a little brake bleeding kit.
Replace pads and rotors, flush, fill and bleed brakes - you'll stop 100x better immediately.
the solution, go to Parkway honda, grab a pair of rotors, set of pads, and fresh brake fluid. From walmart get permatex antiseize, permatex disk brake quiet, and a little brake bleeding kit.
Replace pads and rotors, flush, fill and bleed brakes - you'll stop 100x better immediately.
#12
BTW, even though you don't use your brakes hard, years of neglect will cause the pads to get snagged up on road dirt and debris, causing them to get stuck onto the rotor on the one side (usually the inside of the rotor), and that's why your brakes warp and pads get glazed. Finally, the air in your lines is pretty normal for a car as old as yours. Flush and fill should be regular maintenance every 48,000 kms.
#13
check to see if the slide pins are moving freely, if not that would cause you problems, how can someone say that the fluid has bubbles in it without seeing it, and the warped rotors, and the worn pads, it could be a master cylender. Dont take all of this as the bible as the car has to be looked at for a diagnosis. Air is not common in any car, new or old, the only reason the fluid is reccomended to be flushed is because it breaks down, overheats and doesnt work as efficently. The only way that air would get in there is if it were to boil. or if someone serviced it and loosend off a line or somthing and didnt bleed the system. Air just doesnt mysteriously go in the brake fluid. If you leave the cap off or the bottle open that is anoter way to contaminate the fluid as it is hygroscopic in nature, which means it will take moisture out of the air. That is why you shouldnt leave the brake fluid bottle open for a length of time. Just my two cents
#14
Originally posted by bbarbulo
your rotors are warped, your pads glazed, and your lines are filled with bubbles.
the solution, go to Parkway honda, grab a pair of rotors, set of pads, and fresh brake fluid. From walmart get permatex antiseize, permatex disk brake quiet, and a little brake bleeding kit.
Replace pads and rotors, flush, fill and bleed brakes - you'll stop 100x better immediately.
your rotors are warped, your pads glazed, and your lines are filled with bubbles.
the solution, go to Parkway honda, grab a pair of rotors, set of pads, and fresh brake fluid. From walmart get permatex antiseize, permatex disk brake quiet, and a little brake bleeding kit.
Replace pads and rotors, flush, fill and bleed brakes - you'll stop 100x better immediately.
It shouldnt take long to do your brakes. Very straight forward.
#15
scott newman, he describes that his brakes are weak, which means he's pushing on the pedal, but little to nothing is happening. therefore, he needs a bleeding... also, being a 96, I bet it's got original brake fluid, meaning it's dirty as **** and prolly 50% water and with the stuck pad, it's not inconcievable that it would boil... causing air in the brakes. so either way, a nice flush and fill with some good ol Honda brake fluid is totally called for. Ppl often replace rotors and pads expecting that to improve brake feel, when all they really need is a good bleeding. I flush and bleed my brakes at least once a year... more often if I have a little fun and drive hard.
#16
K, i figured out what the problem was. My pads were gone, and it was digging into my rotors, which gave the rotor a little bit of a shave. I got all 4's changed, the back shoes, and the front pads + rotors.
It cost me $461.42 to get all of them done @ Speedy (they do GREAT fuggin work man, i even tipped the guy $20!).
But now im stuck with but 1 MORE problem. The breaks SQUEEL alot now! And i'm not slamming on the break, im using it normally to come to a full stop @ a stop light, etc. Any ideas? I'm thinking i need to lub up the breaks.
It cost me $461.42 to get all of them done @ Speedy (they do GREAT fuggin work man, i even tipped the guy $20!).
But now im stuck with but 1 MORE problem. The breaks SQUEEL alot now! And i'm not slamming on the break, im using it normally to come to a full stop @ a stop light, etc. Any ideas? I'm thinking i need to lub up the breaks.
#19
Originally posted by Tikal
K, i figured out what the problem was. My pads were gone, and it was digging into my rotors, which gave the rotor a little bit of a shave. I got all 4's changed, the back shoes, and the front pads + rotors.
It cost me $461.42 to get all of them done @ Speedy (they do GREAT fuggin work man, i even tipped the guy $20!).
But now im stuck with but 1 MORE problem. The breaks SQUEEL alot now! And i'm not slamming on the break, im using it normally to come to a full stop @ a stop light, etc. Any ideas? I'm thinking i need to lub up the breaks.
K, i figured out what the problem was. My pads were gone, and it was digging into my rotors, which gave the rotor a little bit of a shave. I got all 4's changed, the back shoes, and the front pads + rotors.
It cost me $461.42 to get all of them done @ Speedy (they do GREAT fuggin work man, i even tipped the guy $20!).
But now im stuck with but 1 MORE problem. The breaks SQUEEL alot now! And i'm not slamming on the break, im using it normally to come to a full stop @ a stop light, etc. Any ideas? I'm thinking i need to lub up the breaks.
#20
Originally posted by electronblue
I believe some squeeking is normal directly after replacement, especially at places like speedy...they should have lubed you at replacement.
I believe some squeeking is normal directly after replacement, especially at places like speedy...they should have lubed you at replacement.