imported_janz3n

iv got a code 9 after mpfi swap, checked it using trouble shooting and its good, tried a known working ecu and got the same code. my question is, can a dizzy be bad even though its got the right ohms and has no continuity?

89SIHATCH?

so you wired the dizzy wrong? this is what it sounds like man.
did you add the 2 extra wires for the dizzy?

what link did you use for the swap?

imported_janz3n

all wires hooked up.. theres no way the wiring is wrong.. iv tried switching wires and it didnt help. i tried switching the two extra blue wires and that didnt help...im confused. and by link do you mean how did i connect the wires? i solderd them all of them except the two blue dizzy wires. but there taped tight right now..they were once solderd but it did the same thing.

89SIHATCH?

lol.

no i mean link as in for your info to do the swap.

here is the link that i used.
DPFI to MPFI swap link.

check it out.
maybe you will find out what it is that you mixed up.
and go over every single wire.
the only problem i had was a coolant leak, and vacume leak but i fixed that. those problems were my fault tho.

imported_janz3n

i used this one http://www.50mod.com/fourthgenhatch/mpfi.html
i cant see one of the many links being wrong.. and alot of people have used that one so i know its not my wiring.. its my distributor it has to be.
is it possible my distributor isnt working and throwing this code even if the trouble shooting checked out good?

89SIHATCH?

as far as i know its either the dizzy is not working at all(car wouldn't run) or it works ( icould be wrong tho). plus the code 9 that your getting is the cylinder 1 position sensor , so it has to be a wire some where that was misplaced. instead of saying that you know that you didn't do anything wrong with the wires cause you used the same link as many. you should know that people do make mistakes and it doesn't hurt to go over every single wire and sensor as if you were re wireing it over. try labeling the wires to make sure 200% that its all good.

the link you used i was gonna use but i ended up using the one i posted as it has just as much info but less nonsense to get you confused, sometime to much info will screw you up.

it is somethingminor you just looked over, take your time and double check.

imported_janz3n

iv checked my wiring about 4 or 5 times and iv re did the wiring about 2 times. its not the wireing. but it will probably end up being the wiring. i just cant see it being the wiring because theres only 4 wires that come from the ecu to the engine. how could i messed those up 3 times? c1 c2 go to the two blue wires from the dizzy , and a3 and a7 go to number 2 and number 4 injectors and c1 go to b10 and c2 goes to b12 .. if any of those go to the wrong wire the car would not run good at all. my car runs good just got the code and my engine jerks at 3000rpms. it has to be something wrong with my distributor if im getting code 9. and is my motor supposed to run rich after this swap? its only .6L more then the stock 1.5? im thinking my dizzy code is doing this.

imported_janz3n

ok so on the 4gen mpfi site. there is a picture of the abc plugs... is the view of them looking at the plugs unpluged from the ecu and looking at the side that goes into the ecu? if so my b10 and b12 were mixed.. so i tried switching them and the car ran like ****. im pretty sure mine are switched too so i dont understand whats going on.

89SIHATCH?

blue/green stripe will go to the wire from pin C1 on the ECU and the other wire that is blue/yellow stripe will go to the wire from pin C2. make sure these are exact.

also did you swap the 2 tps wires?
is the firing order right?i dunno if that will throw a code or not tho.

i also think that one of the other plugs that were to be removed on the side of the intake manifold (to the right, its clear or white) you think you might have used the wrong one?


also after you try these different things are you reseting the ecu and taking it for a drive to see if it throws the code or any others?

imported_janz3n

i did all those things.. ok.. im 90% sure that my b10 is white and my b12 is orange.. and its supposed to be the opposite.. when i switch them my car doesnt run good. and the ohms for the two extra blue wires keeps going down evertime i check it.. could running the car with the b10 and b12 switched make the distributor get worse?

imported_janz3n

i tired switching the b10 b12 wires again and tried to change the ignition timing to get it to run smooth but that didnt work... i really dont understand why the car runs better with the wires in the wrong place.