Honda Civic Performance - JDM Discussion Engine tech, forced induction, springs, shocks, brakes, tires, etc.

Brakes, clutch, engine and other GENIUS' wanted in here.....kids step away

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Old 07-Dec-2005, 12:05 AM
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Originally posted by weiRtech
not driving around .... with describing the problem. you are making it a bit confusing.

what part are you confused with?
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Old 07-Dec-2005, 12:06 AM
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how much for these hp pads or hawk pads? and how much are the brmbo blanks????
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Old 07-Dec-2005, 12:07 AM
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what are the best brand of plugs and wires?

not looking to get the best looks out of these cables..no fancy smancy colors..no chrome or any type of bling..lol

just the best cables...do'n't even care about performance just looking to get INSANE FUEL MILEAGE!
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Old 07-Dec-2005, 04:01 AM
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Clutch problem can be related to alot of different issues.

1) possibly engine mounts depending on how violent the shake in the engine
2) If part of the clutch material has seperated (ie broken rivets) then your clutch will develope alot of heavy vibration and when under load for awhile it will slip very easily.

With brakes, you get what you pay for. If you want decent DD brakes just do cross drilled rotors on Hawk, or another form of performance pads.

If you want circuit then big brakes are the way to go if you experience alot of brake fade under high speed corners.

Rear discs will help your braking distance, but the most dramatic effects will be realized by modifying the front brake portion of the braking system.

I have a set of Front GS-R brakes for sale for $100. The setup is complete with hubs, calipers & bearings, but you will require new pads & rotors.

GS-R brakes have a larger diameter then stock brakes but will still allow enough clearance for a 14" wheel. An excellent & inexpensive brake upgrade.

I have a shop in pickering if you are looking for a spot to have everything changed over.

PM me if your interested.
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Old 07-Dec-2005, 04:08 AM
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OEM, cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs, fuel filter, oil filter and tranny fluid. Grab some fresh oil and coolant from canadian tire and then have a mechanic change all that stuff for you if you cant do it yourself.
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Old 07-Dec-2005, 06:50 AM
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Originally posted by meateater
what are the best brand of plugs and wires?

not looking to get the best looks out of these cables..no fancy smancy colors..no chrome or any type of bling..lol

just the best cables...do'n't even care about performance just looking to get INSANE FUEL MILEAGE!
anything OEM is best for your car.
no aftermarket company will beat it unless they specifically targeted fuel milage.
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Old 07-Dec-2005, 12:02 PM
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With brakes, you get what you pay for. If you want decent DD brakes just do cross drilled rotors on Hawk, or another form of performance pads.
why would he need cross drilled for dd? not like he's going fast enough and brakes enough to benefit from the cooling effect of those rotors. just grab blanks because they are cheaper and hawk hp pads. there's 3 different types of hawks i believe. there's the more aggressive than stock street pad, hp+ which is a streetable/autox pad, and an all out race pad. for your application, just get the street pads because you won't need hp+ or the race pads. but if you track your car then that's a different story cuz the hp+ will hold more temperature.
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Old 07-Dec-2005, 12:45 PM
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If your not going to go with cross drilled or slotted rotors, then I would just get any blank rotors. Not to say that Brembo's are crap, but the questions is do you need them? Every time you change your brake pads, the rotors should be machined ($20-30). Removing material from your rotors, can cause them to warp easier. So rather then machining them, just get new ones.
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Old 07-Dec-2005, 03:52 PM
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vented rotors rust from within right? the brembos are zinc plated inside out so wouldn't that mean they prevent the insides from rusting out as fast as normal stock ones? i have brembo slotted rotors on mine but i want to try the blank ones next because mine warped pretty fast.
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Old 07-Dec-2005, 04:54 PM
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CAD coated rotors are definetly beter, and what your saying is true they don't rust as fast. But like I said, if you change your pads and rotors at the same time everytime then you should not have a rusting issue.

As for the warping issue, I would probably go with somthing like Power Stops (drilled + CAD coated), or Bear Rotors. We've been using them for a long time and have had no issues, even with Hawk Blues under track conditions. If you wanna save $$$ then go with Rototech's they are cheap and the work well (no issues yet) but they are not coated. Which in my opinion is ok if your not using them in the winter. If you want you can even high heat paint them if you mask properly.

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Old 07-Dec-2005, 07:19 PM
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Originally posted by DefconDave
If your not going to go with cross drilled or slotted rotors, then I would just get any blank rotors. Not to say that Brembo's are crap, but the questions is do you need them? Every time you change your brake pads, the rotors should be machined ($20-30). Removing material from your rotors, can cause them to warp easier. So rather then machining them, just get new ones.
Thank You, same way I put it. They are unnecessary for the majority of people. At under $20 each can't go wrong.

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Old 07-Dec-2005, 11:22 PM
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thanks for the info
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Old 08-Dec-2005, 01:31 AM
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Read this.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1437507
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Old 08-Dec-2005, 07:20 PM
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bald tires now...on a dry warm day wouldn't it stop better than tires with deeper threads?

reason i say this is cause because a bald tire will have more rubber touching the ground than a brand new tire.

i know its an extreme but isn't it right..more rubber touching the ground more friction it will cause therefore stopping faster?
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Old 08-Dec-2005, 08:25 PM
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^ thats sounds correct to me

however maybe bald tires dont grib aswell because they are too smooth

example: a big flat peice of metal vs. a jagged peice of metal, which will cause more friction.

i know thats very extreme and metal is nothing like rubber
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Old 08-Dec-2005, 11:08 PM
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^^^^true^^^^
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