brake setup
 

hey guys my brakes are really bad and i need to upgrade now i dont really want any crossdrilled /slotted stuff but i want the brakes to be very good because they faded out on me twice so far.....like zero stopping capability lol.....i was thinking of going with hawk hp pads and brembo blanks but i cant find any local...i dont have an ebay account also so that doesnt work....does anyone know anywhere i can pick this all up???

affiliates can set you up proper. call around for best pricing. I know parkway honda carries a bunch of performance parts too.

yeah i spoke to mark at break the needle but he cant get me brembo blanks...

if the brakes have faded on you ..
you probably go more problems that just changing the rotors and pads
check your fluid .. very important

1. oem brakes will not fade on you unless they are used under extreme conditions and are being used every second.

that being said i dont see the need for you to upgrade.
stick with oem.

install OEM rotors, pads, drums and shoes. replace your entire fluid with oem dot 3 fluid and do a proper bleed, make sure your cylinders and functioning properly, the master cylinder isnt leaking, the piston is working fine and service all the brackets, clamps, fittings etc...

you will not get anything better in terms of reliability, longetivity, comfort, etc....

OEM pads are meant to grip on initial bite. Fading only happens under high speed braking. And if you do high speed braking on street driving, then you need to slow down. But performance pads that has higher fad resistance take time to warm up, and since you don't brake every 10 seconds, you pads won't be hot enough to work.

End result? Can't stop on a dime.

Stay with OEM. If you must upgrade, go with the "street pads" and check for temperature spec on the braking point against OEM.

good point:thumbup:

he's got a boosted car, so he's looking for better than OEM braking.
Larger rotors/calipers and better pads and stainless steel lines will be your friend.

i have gsr fronts :)

they made a huge diff in braking... it stops hard... but i techincally didnt increase braking force (or power), just that i have a larger surface area that the pads make contact with so having more friction will slow me down faster.

how many hp does he have for him to need better brake setup??

i just went Brembo Cross Drilled Slotted all around, Stainless Steel Lines, rebuilt my calipers and powder coated them, Sir Brakes all around and AEM Pads.. good enough for me lol...

More than stock....even with his bagged ass turbo.
But he's planning on a big things, so a bigger brake setup IMO is definately a good idea.

start with an intergra setup all around, or even poor man's ITR setup (with redrilled prelude rotors and ITR calipers). make absolutely sure you upgrade to at least a 15/16 inch master cylinder and high quality DOT3 non synthetic fluid.

I did the SiR setup all around and it was pretty decent for a while. Might even go back to it one day.

you dont have the willwoods anymore?

yeah I still have the wilwoods on my car. I was just saying, before the wilwoods I had the SiR goods all around and it was fantastic.

what do u have for the rear right now? still the sir? what m/c are your running? p/v?

ok well i called tires23 and they told me brembo blanks for 160 and 80 for the hawk hps pads for 80 all tax in......i think im going to do that it seems like it should be good enough no???

SiR rear yes. I still have the SiR front in a box somewhere so I can go back to that when I want to. The M/C used to be 13/16 originally, then 15/16 with the SiR stuff, finally upgraded to the 1 inch. Using a USDM Si prop valve instead of the CDN SiR one that I got with the conversion cuz my car is non ABS.

I had a chance to get the 11 inch fastbrakes rear kit for a hundred bucks, but I didn't wanna increase unsprung rotational mass for absolutely no other reason than looks.

italstallion, make sure you do the master cyl upgrade, it will really help with brake pedal modulation.

when doing the master cylinder upgrade should i go for 15/16 or 1 inch

i suggest you go 1", reason being that if you going to do something, might as well get the best. Price between the two shouldn't vary a whole lot and IMO it's worth the investment. Last thing you want to do is pay someone to upgrade the M/C twice

with your tiny calipers and drums in the rear I suspect, 15/16 is more than enough, and plenty easy to find. 1 inch is near impossible to find... and would be overkill. i use a 1 inch for large 4 piston calipers, so unless you're pretty sure you wanna upgrade later to four piston calipers, 15/16 is as much as you'll ever need.

The last time I needed rotors I called NAPA and they had brembo blanks.

why does everyone buy brembo blanks??? lol...

whats kind of brakes do you have on your civic?

brembos dude... im a balla...

***********secretly... they are just brembo rotors which somehow i believe brakes can grab better onto brembo metal than honda metal.

unless they are cross-drilled (if you want them to brake in half on you) or you get slotted (looks gay when ppl buy stock size calipers on there car that are slotted... hahaha, like a neon with slotted rotors... wow) then there is not much more function.

Hmm..not exactly. The reason is people want brembo rotor isn't because they are balla or at least I hope that's not the reason.

It's because the brembo rotors can deal with the heat better than cheap rotors. Less warping better design between the rotors ect. Now this only becomes useful if your hard on the brakes and using a pad that going to heat up them up. Otherwise cheap rotors are fine.

yeah, thats my point... they last longeer but they dont dramatically increase your stopping power at all... so i just dont know why ppl call it an upgrade... its nowhere close... just replacingg a ****ty part with a better quality one.

now, wouldn't that be an upgrade?

thats an upgrade to me

****ing tecnhincal bull****... lol. you guys win...

but i think its a waste of money IMO... and well, thats where it ends... i just say my opinion.

i just dont understand why ppl are so against doing gsr fronts or type-r fronts and of the course the rear conversion. its a much more economical upgrade...

Ummm what makes the GSR fronts any better than say a GS or LS front... They have the same size rotor... same size pad...

here check it out before you waste money

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1513752


just tired of hearing the wrong **** being tossed around...

SIR GSR GS LS RS SI EX THEY ALL HAVE THE SAME FRONT BRAKES

with that being said the Type R is different i dont think i need to say why.....


all rear disc are interchangable... 88-00 Civic and 94-01 integra can be swapped....and no you dont need the rear trailing arms... just the spindle!!!

changing M/C why would you? pay $$$ to have your pedal closer to the top of the pedal travel....all your doing is moving more fluid at once just dont be lazy and PUT YOUR FOOT INTO HER.... doesnt do much unless you have 4 piston brake calipers or a BIG aftermarket setup like Wilwood... <---nice brakes


I dont see how you can be fading brakes out even with something turbo charged (^got stock brakes on my boosted gsr)... its not the brakes dude its your driving style...
if your brakes are fading fast and you go out and get more aggressive pads and not vented rotors? can you say warped rotors?

you need to get bigger cross drilled rotors....bigger calipers and a nice pad.... hawks are rotor eaters but they do grab like crazy and squeek too


my .02's

i never said gsr are better than gs or ls... those are integra brakes as well made to stop a heavier car... if you have ever looked at gsr fronts and sir front side by side... the gsrs are a little bigger... i dunno, i have seen them with my own eyes... have you?

well those are good points jdmwhacko but it cant be my driving style im just slowing down fro like 180-190 they dont fade if i hold the brakes down for like ten seconds then reapply the brakes but my brakes were gonzo already so it doesnt matter.what fluid should i be using just regualr dot 3 or should i go with a dot 4??? also do i really need the c-clamp to press the piston back in from the caliper or can i use something else....

you could prolly use something else, if you're creative.
I find a c-clamp works best though.

and as far as bleeding them its the same thing as bleeding the clutch never let the fluid get empty just do RR-RL-FR-FL or RR-FL-RL-FR like in the manual or does it even really matter...

c clamps suck

use channel locks

yea... big channel locks work well.... if your not weak

save yourself the surprise and loosen your brake res, it's gonna piss the fluid out as soon as you push the pistons back

GSR brakes = SIR brakes

SIR has a different compensator arm and UCA and LCA. Even the trailing arms are the same....

i would go with integra breaks or even itr 4x114

ya, channel locks work nice too, but for the longest time i never had any....lol.

I always thought the SI/EX had the same size brakes as the LS/GS/GSR/SIR.

your right zeeman

I think Mike is smokin too much of da pot

Stock rotors or Brembo blanks with better pads, fluid and S/S lines are more then enough for a daily driver or the occassional day at the track.

A brake conversion might seem like a great idea, but bigger rotors and calipers also mean more unsprung weight.

use your hands you girly man :)

also, use dot 3 fluid, it's fine.