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brake setup

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Old 22-Jan-2007, 06:29 PM
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brake setup

hey guys my brakes are really bad and i need to upgrade now i dont really want any crossdrilled /slotted stuff but i want the brakes to be very good because they faded out on me twice so far.....like zero stopping capability lol.....i was thinking of going with hawk hp pads and brembo blanks but i cant find any local...i dont have an ebay account also so that doesnt work....does anyone know anywhere i can pick this all up???
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Old 22-Jan-2007, 06:51 PM
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affiliates can set you up proper. call around for best pricing. I know parkway honda carries a bunch of performance parts too.
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Old 22-Jan-2007, 06:58 PM
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yeah i spoke to mark at break the needle but he cant get me brembo blanks...
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Old 22-Jan-2007, 08:00 PM
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if the brakes have faded on you ..
you probably go more problems that just changing the rotors and pads
check your fluid .. very important
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Old 22-Jan-2007, 08:17 PM
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1. oem brakes will not fade on you unless they are used under extreme conditions and are being used every second.

that being said i dont see the need for you to upgrade.
stick with oem.

install OEM rotors, pads, drums and shoes. replace your entire fluid with oem dot 3 fluid and do a proper bleed, make sure your cylinders and functioning properly, the master cylinder isnt leaking, the piston is working fine and service all the brackets, clamps, fittings etc...

you will not get anything better in terms of reliability, longetivity, comfort, etc....
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Old 22-Jan-2007, 09:15 PM
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OEM pads are meant to grip on initial bite. Fading only happens under high speed braking. And if you do high speed braking on street driving, then you need to slow down. But performance pads that has higher fad resistance take time to warm up, and since you don't brake every 10 seconds, you pads won't be hot enough to work.

End result? Can't stop on a dime.

Stay with OEM. If you must upgrade, go with the "street pads" and check for temperature spec on the braking point against OEM.
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Old 22-Jan-2007, 10:10 PM
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Originally posted by Nova_Dust
OEM pads are meant to grip on initial bite. Fading only happens under high speed braking. And if you do high speed braking on street driving, then you need to slow down. But performance pads that has higher fad resistance take time to warm up, and since you don't brake every 10 seconds, you pads won't be hot enough to work.

End result? Can't stop on a dime.

Stay with OEM. If you must upgrade, go with the "street pads" and check for temperature spec on the braking point against OEM.
good point
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Old 22-Jan-2007, 11:19 PM
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he's got a boosted car, so he's looking for better than OEM braking.
Larger rotors/calipers and better pads and stainless steel lines will be your friend.
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 05:23 AM
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i have gsr fronts

they made a huge diff in braking... it stops hard... but i techincally didnt increase braking force (or power), just that i have a larger surface area that the pads make contact with so having more friction will slow me down faster.
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 06:46 AM
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Originally posted by zeeman
he's got a boosted car, so he's looking for better than OEM braking.
Larger rotors/calipers and better pads and stainless steel lines will be your friend.
how many hp does he have for him to need better brake setup??
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 10:02 AM
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i just went Brembo Cross Drilled Slotted all around, Stainless Steel Lines, rebuilt my calipers and powder coated them, Sir Brakes all around and AEM Pads.. good enough for me lol...
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 10:09 AM
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Originally posted by Team Rukus


how many hp does he have for him to need better brake setup??
More than stock....even with his bagged *** turbo.
But he's planning on a big things, so a bigger brake setup IMO is definately a good idea.
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 12:15 PM
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start with an intergra setup all around, or even poor man's ITR setup (with redrilled prelude rotors and ITR calipers). make absolutely sure you upgrade to at least a 15/16 inch master cylinder and high quality DOT3 non synthetic fluid.

I did the SiR setup all around and it was pretty decent for a while. Might even go back to it one day.
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 12:55 PM
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you dont have the willwoods anymore?
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 12:57 PM
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yeah I still have the wilwoods on my car. I was just saying, before the wilwoods I had the SiR goods all around and it was fantastic.
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 01:01 PM
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what do u have for the rear right now? still the sir? what m/c are your running? p/v?
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 04:08 PM
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ok well i called tires23 and they told me brembo blanks for 160 and 80 for the hawk hps pads for 80 all tax in......i think im going to do that it seems like it should be good enough no???
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 04:25 PM
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Originally posted by Team Rukus
what do u have for the rear right now? still the sir? what m/c are your running? p/v?
SiR rear yes. I still have the SiR front in a box somewhere so I can go back to that when I want to. The M/C used to be 13/16 originally, then 15/16 with the SiR stuff, finally upgraded to the 1 inch. Using a USDM Si prop valve instead of the CDN SiR one that I got with the conversion cuz my car is non ABS.

I had a chance to get the 11 inch fastbrakes rear kit for a hundred bucks, but I didn't wanna increase unsprung rotational mass for absolutely no other reason than looks.

italstallion, make sure you do the master cyl upgrade, it will really help with brake pedal modulation.
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 06:10 PM
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when doing the master cylinder upgrade should i go for 15/16 or 1 inch
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Old 23-Jan-2007, 06:53 PM
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Originally posted by italstallion
when doing the master cylinder upgrade should i go for 15/16 or 1 inch
i suggest you go 1", reason being that if you going to do something, might as well get the best. Price between the two shouldn't vary a whole lot and IMO it's worth the investment. Last thing you want to do is pay someone to upgrade the M/C twice
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